My Twin Turbo Build is Under Way
Awesome build! I don't think you really missed anything performance wise lol.
Let me know how you the wiseco pistions work cause I'm going to be looking
at the wiseco/eagle set-up for my Z when I order in my APS TT. Keep
everything coming this entertains my boring day at school/work!
Let me know how you the wiseco pistions work cause I'm going to be looking
at the wiseco/eagle set-up for my Z when I order in my APS TT. Keep
everything coming this entertains my boring day at school/work!
Originally Posted by gorillagoggles
Awesome build! I don't think you really missed anything performance wise lol.
Let me know how you the wiseco pistions work cause I'm going to be looking
at the wiseco/eagle set-up for my Z when I order in my APS TT. Keep
everything coming this entertains my boring day at school/work!
Let me know how you the wiseco pistions work cause I'm going to be looking
at the wiseco/eagle set-up for my Z when I order in my APS TT. Keep
everything coming this entertains my boring day at school/work!
The Wiseco pistons/Eagle rods are working great. I'm still in the break-in period, but so far, so good.
Be sure to get the ceramic/moly coating option on the Wisecos:
http://www.importpartspro.com/st1blon.html
For $250 it is well worth it if you will be running boost. It's my understanding that the ceramic coating helps distribute the heat better across of the top of the piston to minimize hot spots. This helps reduce the onset of detonation, which allows you to run more boost. The moly coating on the sides of the pistons helps reduce friction.
I also spent the extra $200 and got the ARP main studs.
Originally Posted by ttg35fort
The Wiseco pistons/Eagle rods are working great. I'm still in the break-in period, but so far, so good.
Be sure to get the ceramic/moly coating option on the Wisecos:
http://www.importpartspro.com/st1blon.html
For $250 it is well worth it if you will be running boost. It's my understanding that the ceramic coating helps distribute the heat better across of the top of the piston to minimize hot spots. This helps reduce the onset of detonation, which allows you to run more boost. The moly coating on the sides of the pistons helps reduce friction.
I also spent the extra $200 and got the ARP main studs.
Be sure to get the ceramic/moly coating option on the Wisecos:
http://www.importpartspro.com/st1blon.html
For $250 it is well worth it if you will be running boost. It's my understanding that the ceramic coating helps distribute the heat better across of the top of the piston to minimize hot spots. This helps reduce the onset of detonation, which allows you to run more boost. The moly coating on the sides of the pistons helps reduce friction.
I also spent the extra $200 and got the ARP main studs.
for the feedback I wish I could have as much as you, but I just want to take
the basic safety precautions with boosting for the start. Have fun with the
car, this thing is guarenteed to cause whiplash!
Right now my G35 is running very smooth with a conservative street tune for the motor break-in period. Roger at Japtrix sat next to me with his laptop and tuned it for me while I cruised under a variety of conditions. It's amazing what he can do with his laptop plugged into the HKS F-CON V Pro!!! 
Again, a big thanks to both Rogers, Jack, Bala and Nate at Japtrix for the build, tune and answers to my questions, etc., Sharif, Sandy and Ryan at Forged Performance for answering all of my questions (as well as having the HKS injectors pre-machined and in stock, getting my Volks and all of the other parts I ordered), Kyle at Import Parts Pro for the short block, all of the parts I ordered from him and, again, answers to all of my questions, to Sam at GTM for re-flashing my ECU with a one day turn-around, and to Garret at HKS. The teamwork these among these people and their strive to provide outstanding customer service is nothing short of amazing. They all have been absolutely great to work with!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If anyone needs anything from any of these people/businesses, I whole-heartedly recommend all of them!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Japtrix/Horsepower Logic will be tuning my G on the dyno in a couple of weeks after the break-in period, and then we will see what my build really can do. I then will be trying it out at Sebring on Oct. 12. I'm excited to finally be able to get it on the track. 
Again, a big thanks to both Rogers, Jack, Bala and Nate at Japtrix for the build, tune and answers to my questions, etc., Sharif, Sandy and Ryan at Forged Performance for answering all of my questions (as well as having the HKS injectors pre-machined and in stock, getting my Volks and all of the other parts I ordered), Kyle at Import Parts Pro for the short block, all of the parts I ordered from him and, again, answers to all of my questions, to Sam at GTM for re-flashing my ECU with a one day turn-around, and to Garret at HKS. The teamwork these among these people and their strive to provide outstanding customer service is nothing short of amazing. They all have been absolutely great to work with!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If anyone needs anything from any of these people/businesses, I whole-heartedly recommend all of them!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Japtrix/Horsepower Logic will be tuning my G on the dyno in a couple of weeks after the break-in period, and then we will see what my build really can do.
I then will be trying it out at Sebring on Oct. 12. I'm excited to finally be able to get it on the track.
Last edited by ttg35fort; Sep 24, 2008 at 05:44 PM.
I was at Japtrix today and got to see your setup.
Everything looks great Man. You'll definitely turn some heads toolin down the street
Roger and the guys at Japtrix will take good care of you.
There's nowhere else I would take my car!!!
Have fun and see you at Sebring...
Everything looks great Man. You'll definitely turn some heads toolin down the street
Roger and the guys at Japtrix will take good care of you.
There's nowhere else I would take my car!!!
Have fun and see you at Sebring...
I'm at 496whp on a conservative tune at 14psi. Stock heads, UTEC, crappy 2.35" borla TD exhaust.....
I don't see you having an issue.
I was at Japtrix today and got to see your setup.
Everything looks great Man. You'll definitely turn some heads toolin down the street
Roger and the guys at Japtrix will take good care of you.
There's nowhere else I would take my car!!!
Have fun and see you at Sebring...
Everything looks great Man. You'll definitely turn some heads toolin down the street
Roger and the guys at Japtrix will take good care of you.
There's nowhere else I would take my car!!!
Have fun and see you at Sebring...
Just a quick update. As I noted on other threads, I fried my Clutchmasters FX600 clutch - I launched at 3k-4k rpm with 12 psi of boost. I now have a Carbonetics triple disk in there, which seems to be holding well.
When we got my car on the Mustang dyno, it was running somewhere in the low to mid 400 hp range with the conservative street tune and ?? lbs of boost. Then Roger and Jack went to work inside the F-CON.
I told them I wanted 600 hp on 93 octane (no meth yet). On the last run, they got to 584 RWHP (adjusted for temp and humidity) at around 6700 rpm and 13.5 psi of boost, but had to back off because my rear tires were spinning on the dyno (6700 rpm in the car vs 6200 rpm on the dyno). We looked at the tires and the spinning was starting to chew them up a bit, so we had to stop.
Since my redline is 7500 rpm, it looks like we should clear 600 hp once I get some rear tires on that are more suitable for the dyno. The Toyo R888s grip dry pavement great, but do not do well in the rain (as I found out at Sebring a day later), nor on the dyno. Also, since we were only at 13.5 psi, we should have room to add more boost. If and when the Cosworth intake plenum comes in, that should also help.
Hey Jack, if you get a chance please post my dyno results in this thread.
When we got my car on the Mustang dyno, it was running somewhere in the low to mid 400 hp range with the conservative street tune and ?? lbs of boost. Then Roger and Jack went to work inside the F-CON.
I told them I wanted 600 hp on 93 octane (no meth yet). On the last run, they got to 584 RWHP (adjusted for temp and humidity) at around 6700 rpm and 13.5 psi of boost, but had to back off because my rear tires were spinning on the dyno (6700 rpm in the car vs 6200 rpm on the dyno). We looked at the tires and the spinning was starting to chew them up a bit, so we had to stop.
Since my redline is 7500 rpm, it looks like we should clear 600 hp once I get some rear tires on that are more suitable for the dyno. The Toyo R888s grip dry pavement great, but do not do well in the rain (as I found out at Sebring a day later), nor on the dyno. Also, since we were only at 13.5 psi, we should have room to add more boost. If and when the Cosworth intake plenum comes in, that should also help.
Hey Jack, if you get a chance please post my dyno results in this thread.
Last edited by ttg35fort; Oct 25, 2008 at 06:48 PM.
Just a quick update. As I noted on other threads, I fried my Clutchmasters FX600 clutch - I launched at 3k-4k rpm with 12 psi of boost. I now have a Carbonetics triple disk in there, which seems to be holding well.
When we got my car on the Mustang dyno, it was running somewhere in the low to mid 400 hp range with the conservative street tune and 10 lbs of boost. Then Roger and Jack went to work inside the F-CON.
I told them I wanted 600 hp on 93 octane (no meth yet). On the last run, they got to 584 RWHP (adjusted for temp and humidity) at around 6700 rpm and 13.5 psi of boost, but had to back off because my rear tires were spinning on the dyno (6700 rpm in the car vs 6200 rpm on the dyno). We looked at the tires and the spinning was starting to chew them up a bit, so we had to stop.
Since my redline is 7500 rpm, it looks like we should clear 600 hp once I get some rear tires on that are more suitable for the dyno. The Toyo R888s grip dry pavement great, but do not do well in the rain (as I found out at Sebring a day later), nor on the dyno. Also, since we were only at 13.5 psi, we should have room to add more boost. If and when the Cosworth intake plenum comes in, that should also help.
Hey Jack, if you get a chance please post my dyno results in this thread.
When we got my car on the Mustang dyno, it was running somewhere in the low to mid 400 hp range with the conservative street tune and 10 lbs of boost. Then Roger and Jack went to work inside the F-CON.
I told them I wanted 600 hp on 93 octane (no meth yet). On the last run, they got to 584 RWHP (adjusted for temp and humidity) at around 6700 rpm and 13.5 psi of boost, but had to back off because my rear tires were spinning on the dyno (6700 rpm in the car vs 6200 rpm on the dyno). We looked at the tires and the spinning was starting to chew them up a bit, so we had to stop.
Since my redline is 7500 rpm, it looks like we should clear 600 hp once I get some rear tires on that are more suitable for the dyno. The Toyo R888s grip dry pavement great, but do not do well in the rain (as I found out at Sebring a day later), nor on the dyno. Also, since we were only at 13.5 psi, we should have room to add more boost. If and when the Cosworth intake plenum comes in, that should also help.
Hey Jack, if you get a chance please post my dyno results in this thread.
how did it go from low to mid 400s to 584 on just 3.5 psi more? Do you happen to have just the non corrected numbers
edit: Now that I think about it, I'll bet the first set of numbers were uncorrected, and the second set of numbers are corrected. Again, I'll check with Jack.
Last edited by ttg35fort; Oct 25, 2008 at 06:57 PM.
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Wellington, FL
This was Terry's car with some decent timing....initially the timing was VERY conservative....gains were huge as the curve got more aggressive....this car is living it up...LOL...should see some really good numbers with some more boost!
-Jack
that is a very nice power band,
On Tuesday I am going down there to do some wiring with Roger. We are going to wire the Coolingmist Smart Injection unit to the F-CON to trigger the F-CON to automatically switch fuel/ignition maps when the Meth system is turned on. It will also automatically revert back to the original map and shut off the boost controller if something goes wrong with the meth system (e.g. tank runs dry or the meth flow falls below a pre-determined flow rate).
I'll have back in there again in December, assuming my Cosworth intake plenum shows up then.
