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Doing it for the wrong reason???

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Old 01-12-2009, 04:45 PM
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IIQuickSilverII
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Originally Posted by thom000001
tire choice must be thought out that is sooooooo true.

Even with boost controller off, on the khumo ecsta mx's (274/40/18) i have unctrollable wheelspin through most of 3rd (at the track.....traction at the dragstrip seems to go away a lot easier than the street).

Tom
r888 ftw!
Old 01-12-2009, 04:50 PM
  #22  
thom000001
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I'm looking at those too...Only concern is the R compounds in this climate (it still gets chilly in spring and fall in chicago).

I know Phunk runs them here though too.

Originally Posted by IIQuickSilverII
r888 ftw!
Old 01-12-2009, 04:52 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by thom000001
I'm looking at those too...Only concern is the R compounds in this climate (it still gets chilly in spring and fall in chicago).

I know Phunk runs them here though too.
yes strickly summer tire..in wet conditions nono

Should work well in az heat...
Old 01-12-2009, 07:17 PM
  #24  
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Back in your cage Jorge!!! hahaha
Old 01-12-2009, 08:59 PM
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I'll be running Volk GTS 18x11's (+25) with Nitto NT05 295/35/18 (released in Feb)... Yes, I know I'll be doing some decent fender work that may require more than rolling but it's not like the body work is out of the question. I know they're not a super soft drag radial compound but look soft and sticky none the less.

I think I answered my own question in my very first post with my power goals and track times but I think we've all had to come to terms with how high to set the bar. To think about how much money I wasted on my Scion tC back in the day.... Made the first mistake by modding a FWD car/ Second, installing a TRD supercharger, getting some 40whp and blowing up two of those. And finally swapping to a turbo and AEM standalone just to get absolutely sick of traction problems and short gearing.

I have no problems waiting on doing things the right way this time. I'm sure with a build and a Pro EFI, either kit will be a monster. I know a lot of people are all talk on here but I'm kind of a talker to begin with and usually see what the guys on the forums have to say before dumping crazy money on stuff. After all, what's a few post when talking about a couple G's on a turbo kit. Thanks for the help.
Old 01-12-2009, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Robs_350Z
I'll be running Volk GTS 18x11's (+25) with Nitto NT05 295/35/18 (released in Feb)... Yes, I know I'll be doing some decent fender work that may require more than rolling but it's not like the body work is out of the question. I know they're not a super soft drag radial compound but look soft and sticky none the less.

I think I answered my own question in my very first post with my power goals and track times but I think we've all had to come to terms with how high to set the bar. To think about how much money I wasted on my Scion tC back in the day.... Made the first mistake by modding a FWD car/ Second, installing a TRD supercharger, getting some 40whp and blowing up two of those. And finally swapping to a turbo and AEM standalone just to get absolutely sick of traction problems and short gearing.

I have no problems waiting on doing things the right way this time. I'm sure with a build and a Pro EFI, either kit will be a monster. I know a lot of people are all talk on here but I'm kind of a talker to begin with and usually see what the guys on the forums have to say before dumping crazy money on stuff. After all, what's a few post when talking about a couple G's on a turbo kit. Thanks for the help.
Rob, I think you and I spoke before?
Also, we could even do a custom turbo for the Powerlab kit if that is the direction you want to go. We will be testing a new Precision 67 billet shortly otherwise a 62billet would be a pretty sweet setup.

Anyways, if you are ever bored, come on down and visit the shop we always have some crazy stuff there, standard stock of 5+ supra's, a few G35's, etc...

Chris
Old 01-12-2009, 09:22 PM
  #27  
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Absolutely. You guys have my buisness no matter what. Just going to be one of those two kits. I've seen you guys kill at the track for years. The Volk wheels were costly but I'll bounce back pretty fast. I'm sure I'll be happy with the stock wheel on the turbo. Last thing I want is to head down the road of aggressive lag to make up the power.... Although I'm sure that wheel you're speaking of is just more efficient as opposed to lag.
Old 01-12-2009, 10:37 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Robs_350Z
I'll be running Volk GTS 18x11's (+25) with Nitto NT05 295/35/18 (released in Feb)... Yes, I know I'll be doing some decent fender work that may require more than rolling but it's not like the body work is out of the question. I know they're not a super soft drag radial compound but look soft and sticky none the less.
I have Volk GTS 19x10.5's (+30) in back on my G35, and I am running 305s. My fenders are rolled. I only rubbed very slightly one time at Sebring. I'm going to use the fender roller to push out the fenders just a little bit. That said, I think there may be more room on a 350Z. Sharif is running 315's in the back.

I went with 265's in the front, but it turns out that I could have gone bigger. Definitely 275's, and maybe even 285's. Mario has 275's on his 350Z, and there does not seem to be any issue.

As someone else posted, the Toyo R888s are greeaaatttt when their dry. But when it rains, watch out. I drive very, very carefully when it is wet out. The Nitto NT05's are probably a better all around street tire if you are using the car for a daily driver and not running on the track.

Edit: I just looked up the NT05's. It looks like the widest tire they will be making for an 18" rim (at least initially) is 295. Good choice.

Last edited by ttg35fort; 01-12-2009 at 10:41 PM.
Old 01-13-2009, 04:51 AM
  #29  
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I'll see how the 295 fits with the +25 offset after rolling. From what I've gathered on here, that tire and offset will not tuck if lowered more than an 1" while bringing the camber back into spec with a kit. I'm sure the option is definitely there depending on how much fender work I decide to do, I'm willing to risk the paint. I'm very happy with Nitto's tire sizes…. Great to see another company battle for that street class compound.
Old 01-13-2009, 12:19 PM
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Tom, don't know if you'll come across this thread again but have you ever put that 769whp to the street pavement? My thought is 500whp sounds scary on the road… I assuming 700whp comes in to play in 4th gear
Old 01-13-2009, 02:49 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Robs_350Z
I'll see how the 295 fits with the +25 offset after rolling. From what I've gathered on here, that tire and offset will not tuck if lowered more than an 1" while bringing the camber back into spec with a kit. I'm sure the option is definitely there depending on how much fender work I decide to do, I'm willing to risk the paint. I'm very happy with Nitto's tire sizes…. Great to see another company battle for that street class compound.
You will need to roll your fenders, but that probably should be sufficient. Again, I have 305s on mine, and I sit very low. Now, all tire manufacturers specifications are different, but a 295 on a 25 offset rim will stick out just about as far as a 305 on a 30 offset rim.

My car sits very low (picture below), and I have only rubbed a tire once, and this was at Sebring while I took a corner so hard that I was doing a 4 wheel power slide. Again, I think you have more room for your rear tires on your 350Z than I have on my G35.

Here is my car (lousy picture and the car was somewhat dirty):

Old 01-13-2009, 03:41 PM
  #32  
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^^ stock bumper? if so, do you still have that scrape guard on it? how many inches from teh ground to that scrape guard (or lowest point on the front bumper).

Tryin to get a feel for how much lower i can go.

sorry for the OT..
Old 01-13-2009, 06:40 PM
  #33  
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On the shi##y Khumos with a bad alignment wouldn't hold till 5th gear most of the time on the 769rwhp tune.

They would hold about 700rwhp in 4th (have to pay attention though) and its pretty sick. Ran another G coupe (vortec SC 400rwhp), we hit it at bout 50, had to totally feather 3rd and "give it the beans" in 4th and 5th.....well lets just say that "objects in mirror are closer than they appear" didn't help me see him at all anymore

This year I've got a 3.3FD, a new alignment, and sticky tires to help solve the traction issues (and make the gearing more usefull).

Lemme know next time you are down this way.

the pump gas setup is still basically retarted (546rwhp), not much that can keep up unless they've done work too.

Tom


Originally Posted by Robs_350Z
Tom, don't know if you'll come across this thread again but have you ever put that 769whp to the street pavement? My thought is 500whp sounds scary on the road… I assuming 700whp comes in to play in 4th gear
Old 01-13-2009, 07:06 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
^^ stock bumper? if so, do you still have that scrape guard on it? how many inches from teh ground to that scrape guard (or lowest point on the front bumper).

Tryin to get a feel for how much lower i can go.

sorry for the OT..
Kuruma Z front bumper (no scrape guard) and Greddy side skirts. I have a new rear bumper, I just haven't had a chance yet to get it installed.

I haven't measured my clearence. I scrape the bottom of the front bumper only when I pull into the driveway a little too fast. One time I bumped into a curb stop (I now have to repaint the lower part of the front bumber). My GSpec frame brace scrapes occasionally over speed bumps.
Old 01-13-2009, 09:13 PM
  #35  
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ttg35fort, thanks for the advice. Just happy I finally commited to a while size... was back and forth so long on 19's or 18's.

Tom, the spring sound best. After all who can get traction in this weather. I haven't driven mine since October. Not that there's anything special done to it, just have another car.

Ideally, the turbo & built block, volk wheels, suspension, and an Amuse body kit are the only things I want to do to my car. Very expenisve mods but should yield a clean simple design.
Old 01-14-2009, 08:10 AM
  #36  
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No problemo.
I haven't even seen mine in over a month (its parked in the burbs, I live in the city) lol

T

Originally Posted by Robs_350Z
Tom, the spring sound best. After all who can get traction in this weather. I haven't driven mine since October. Not that there's anything special done to it, just have another car.
Old 01-14-2009, 09:19 AM
  #37  
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Thanks everyone who chimed in.

I think I'm going to bite my lip and save for both the block and turbo install like Tom. After really evaluating both kits, it seems like I'm getting a lot more for my money with the SP kit, headers, dual turbos, oil return system. Granted I'll have the two of everything so there's that much more that can go wrong, not to mention the low mounted oil return system. I think I'd kick myself for years if I went PL and wanted to get serious and do some amateur racing. Nothing against the power potential, just the turbo placement, manifolds, spool…

I'm just afraid I'll get itchy and install it before I'm ready to build, have spring on my mind. I keep telling myself modest boost like 7psi and SP tuning, I should get a year out of it… never know though. When I get that far I'll reply on the pros to tell me what's right.
Old 01-14-2009, 09:23 AM
  #38  
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twins are great, but are harder to work on. most pull the engine out to install. the PL kit is something i would have considered if it was out when i got my twins. so much easier and you can change your turbos quite easily.
Old 01-14-2009, 09:27 AM
  #39  
thom000001
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Rob,
My first thought was like you. Just do the twins then build the motor the next winter. Well due to using the tubular manifold for efficiency, you have to pull the motor to install them. Well since the motor was already going to be out I opted to just build it up front. Why pull the motor 2 times?

Tom

Originally Posted by Robs_350Z
Thanks everyone who chimed in.

I think I'm going to bite my lip and save for both the block and turbo install like Tom. After really evaluating both kits, it seems like I'm getting a lot more for my money with the SP kit, headers, dual turbos, oil return system. Granted I'll have the two of everything so there's that much more that can go wrong, not to mention the low mounted oil return system. I think I'd kick myself for years if I went PL and wanted to get serious and do some amateur racing. Nothing against the power potential, just the turbo placement, manifolds, spool…

I'm just afraid I'll get itchy and install it before I'm ready to build, have spring on my mind. I keep telling myself modest boost like 7psi and SP tuning, I should get a year out of it… never know though. When I get that far I'll reply on the pros to tell me what's right.
Old 01-14-2009, 11:25 AM
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If I spent my extra money solely on my car I really wouldn't have to think about because it would all happen relatively quickly. I've asked the guys to give me a quote multiple times on just the twin turbo install but don't want to nag, maybe it's just that much they don't even want to entertain it as a realistic option. Tim was bragging about how fast he could pull these motors from the car though. I'm not ignorant, I know running on a stock motor isn't smart but can be done for a limited time. Just would like to have my cake and eat it too, bolt it up and save for the build. Just a thought is all, I don't want to throw away money anymore than the next guy.


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