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Vortech install help - couple quick questions

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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 09:20 AM
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Default Vortech install help - couple quick questions

In the middle of helping a friend install a vortech kit and didnt have time to search aton of post.

Questions
1) the hose that is attached to the elbow on the air filter. Where does the other end hook up to?

2)The tooth belt that turns the blower itself seems loose. Is it suppose to be kinda loose?

Thanks in advance. Now back to finishing up fuel injectors.
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 09:30 AM
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1) that hose should have a male to male connector on the other end that connects to the hose that used to be on the oem intake tube. Should be the the drivers side breather hose

2) you mean the one on the back of the blower? It was hard to hand turn but i cannot remember if it had a bit of longitudinal shaft play or not
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by cbr900son
In the middle of helping a friend install a vortech kit and didnt have time to search aton of post.

Questions
1) the hose that is attached to the elbow on the air filter. Where does the other end hook up to?

2)The tooth belt that turns the blower itself seems loose. Is it suppose to be kinda loose?

Thanks in advance. Now back to finishing up fuel injectors.
The tooth belt? Do you mean the cog belt that has the idler pulley that allows you to adjust tension. That should not be tight. I like to let mine have a fairly large amount of play, hard to explain how much but it should not be even near being tight.
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 10:49 AM
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My cog belt has about 1/2 inch of play, and I haven't had any problems with it.
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 03:16 PM
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K things are moving along. The instructions are.. well they suck. Now we are trying to figure out with the V3 version how to check the oil in the supercharger since this one doesnt run into your oil and is self lubed. Instructions say there is a dips stick and stuff but we dont see one and not sure how much lube to put in when it needs to be changed anyway. Anyone have ay clue here?
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 07:34 PM
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we are still trying to figure out how to check the oil in the v3.
we pulled the screw on the top (copper hex head) but it was dry.
There is another copper hex head screw at the bottom, but its damn near impossible to get to with the vortech installed.

More Questions
3) Where should the BOV vacuum line run to?
4) Where do I install the UTEC MAP Sensor?

Thanks for all the help guys, and sorry for the noob questions.
Got a lot of stuff installed this weekend, and its easy to get confused on some of this stuff.
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 03:50 AM
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Originally Posted by nothix
we are still trying to figure out how to check the oil in the v3.
we pulled the screw on the top (copper hex head) but it was dry.
There is another copper hex head screw at the bottom, but its damn near impossible to get to with the vortech installed.

More Questions
3) Where should the BOV vacuum line run to?
4) Where do I install the UTEC MAP Sensor?

Thanks for all the help guys, and sorry for the noob questions.
Got a lot of stuff installed this weekend, and its easy to get confused on some of this stuff.
3) Vacum fitting on the upper intake.
4) See #3 above ...

They both need to operate off the pressure in the intake, just don't T them into the same line - it's better to use separate/dedicated lines for each one.

I have 4 new fittings on the back of my manifold for fuel system, bpv, boost gauge and MAP sensor:

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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 10:37 AM
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everything went smoothly, thanks for the help everyone.

I have two more related questions
1 - How can I access the UTEC Map settings via the tuner? The setup has me connecting my laptop to the tuner, with the tuner connecting to the utec. (laptop->tuner->utec) When connecting this way, the menu only shows tuner settings, not utec settings. The only was I was able to load my map was to disconnect the tuner and hook up the laptop straight to the utec.

2 - Is it possible to output the vacuum reading from the MAP sensor to a stand alone gauge? (autometer es)

Thanks again
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Car vs. Driver
They both need to operate off the pressure in the intake, just don't T them into the same line - it's better to use separate/dedicated lines for each one.
I ended up having to T them on the only available connection the upper plenum.
The MAP sensor came with a t fitting, so i don't think its that bad.

Whats the problem with doing it this way?

Thanks
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 11:07 AM
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Sorry, that was more of a personal preference to have dedicated lines for accuracy. I have no proof that using a T will cause an issue, I'm just against them in general.
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Car vs. Driver
Sorry, that was more of a personal preference to have dedicated lines for accuracy. I have no proof that using a T will cause an issue, I'm just against them in general.
I can definitely seen that concern. I was worried about accuracy especially with diameter changing and branching
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 11:42 AM
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It honestly shouldn't matter, PSI = PSI no matter what the diameter of the vacume line is.
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 09:15 PM
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When anyone figures out how to check the lube level on the Vortech chime in please... i still got about 2000 miles before my first drain on it...
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 02:49 AM
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V3 I assume? No idea dude ...
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by BankyDori
When anyone figures out how to check the lube level on the Vortech chime in please... i still got about 2000 miles before my first drain on it...
I still don't know how either.
We drained it out in the install and refilled it just to make damn sure it had oil.
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 05:49 AM
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Nothix,

Is possible you guys can take a picture of how to drain/refill on V3? or if you do have any info could give me a link?

From searched, blower doesn't have to move when changing a oil, is it possible?

I'm trying to figure go with V2 or V3, i have noidea lol

Thanks!
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 12:53 PM
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i can check my oil just fine. i do have a g though. otherwise it take 5 minutes to pull off the fender well plastic. simple.

draining is obvious. then u just unscrew the top hex bolt and pour in the 4oz of blower oil. maybe 10 minute process tops.
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
i can check my oil just fine. i do have a g though. otherwise it take 5 minutes to pull off the fender well plastic. simple.

draining is obvious. then u just unscrew the top hex bolt and pour in the 4oz of blower oil. maybe 10 minute process tops.
so you do check from the oil level from the lower hex bolt?
Damn thats impossible to get to.

Draining and filling is cake though
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
i can check my oil just fine. i do have a g though. otherwise it take 5 minutes to pull off the fender well plastic. simple.

draining is obvious. then u just unscrew the top hex bolt and pour in the 4oz of blower oil. maybe 10 minute process tops.
Good to know. Thanks
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 08:31 AM
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impossible? The Z must be way different than the G bc mine is super easy to get to and slides right out under the plastic loom.
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