streetzlegend

iTrader: (2)

Well im relatively new to the site, but iv been in the VQ family for a while. I am currently building a 3.5, so far I have eagle h-beam rods, 96mm 8.8:1 comp Wiseco pistons, and a block. (I broke a rod in half on the previous motor so needed a new block). My question is, my goal being to produce around mid 400's, 500 at most to the wheels. What rod/main bearings are mostly recommended, iv been told ACL, would stock bearings handle this?

As for head gasket, I was thinking about going with HR, (also going with HR head bolts, already decided on that). This is on a student budget, im not cheaping out on important parts (although almost everything is important on a build), but if I could save some money by getting something that works just as good, why not. So far cosworth looks very convicing for head gasket, but also a bit expensive, cometic looks more reasonable but have heard they have a bad rep (dont kno why). What can you guys recommend for me? Basically my only worry right now is, bearings and head gasket, everything else i got pretty much covered.

btw this is for a for a single turbo setup.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Thanx

wannabuy350z

iTrader: (27)

I am on stock and it will handle it fine. just make sure your tune is perfect. for bearings.

i went with cosworth HGs. on the DE motors you need to modify the HR HGs, so unless you want to minimize error I would go with HKS, COMETIC, COSWORTH (it was only $200)

captj3

iTrader: (1)

Are you sure you have to modifiy the gaskets? I thought you had to modifiy the block cooling passage only per the info on jwt's web site about this. OP if you use the HR set up you need HR head gaskets to make up the difference in the length of the HR head bolts. I'm not sure they will work without them.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (2)

So stock bearings, now there are 3 different grades, I am using a block, and crank of another engine, how can i determine which grade bearingsn to use?

as for the hr bolts, what if i use stock thickness head gasket, the hr bolts shouldnt be a problem, considering it will be same thickness as if i was using HR head gasket.

QuadCam

iTrader: (8)

there is no appreciable difference in the HR and DE headgasket thickness. JWT just points out that the HR head bolts are longer than the DE bolts. I haven't checked, but the HR bolts should be fine in the DE block.

I'd call JWT if you want to be sure.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (2)

oh man id really appreciate if you did that.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (2)

I just found a PDF from jwt, that i had saved. and basically shows all the different gen VQ's and gasket types. all are .63mm thick, The 1st and 2nd gen HG have coolant passages all on one side (only one cylinder), with the HR head gasket, there is a coolant passage on each cylinder and are on the exhaust valve side to improve cooling on cylinder walls and head. I am defently going to go with HR HG, and yea, you have to shave a little bit of material on the block to improve coolant/water flow.

Now my question would be, since im going with 96mm bore, would the HR gasket still cover and fit properly?

streetzlegend

iTrader: (2)

So, crank is being polished now. should be ready tomorrow. already got pistons, rods, block. once i get the spec's on the crank ill order ALC bearings.

I have a question, How much power can I expect to make out of this setup I am building? Or better yet, up to how much power should I take these components too safely (eagle rod, wiseco piston, acl bearing, hr head bolts, hr or cometic hg)?

QuadCam

iTrader: (8)

what I meant to say was "if I were you, I'd call JWT to find out for sure." but I am not you.....so, you should call JWT.

BTW......who is doing your machine work there in Miami? Mesa Balancing? Laz MEsa is a good guy...very familiar with the VQ.

Cass007

iTrader: (34)

These components are more than able to handle the power you are looking for, but safety/longevity depends primarily on the tune. You can have all the right components, but if they aren't assembled correctly or the tune is crap, they will still fail. also, you will need to address fuel delivery if you want more power.....welcome to the slippery slope.

rrmedicx

iTrader: (54)

Building a VQ for power will be expensive so unless you are prepared financially...don't go there. It also requires attention to detail that no backyard builder with admitedly no experience will be able to manage and subject to failure. Sorry for the bad news.

Not to say it can't be done, but I would recommend a professional build your long block. With that you can take the pre-assembled motor and do the actual install of the remaining components yourself. That part is not rocket science. But measuring the cam spacing and appropriately setting up the cam springs or properly installing the piston rings can make or break your project and result in thousands of dollars in damage.
Not to mention all of the specialized tools needed to measure and fit certain parts together. I started with a craftsman tool set for $150 and have accumulated over $1000 in tools some of which I may never use again.
Come up with a plan and take your time. You can't rush this. (unless your rich and pay someone to do the work)
Use the search feature, you might find some interesting information.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (2)

Thanx for the reply guys, as for the builder or shop im using its Southflorida Automotive, (Phill), i read on the Z31 forums that they are good and are familiar with nissan motors.

rrmedixc, Yea I realized how expensive the build was going to be, but no going back now. As for doing the work my self vs. having a professional do it, that's exactly why I am having the shop assemble the short block for me. Although I am capable of doing it, I dont wanna take the risk and missing something while putting everything together, as for measurements and such, for example the heads are going to stay stock, so there wont be a need to touch valves, springs, cams, etc.. Basically the shop is going to file fit the piston rings, balance, bore and hone cylinders, polish crank and measure it out so I can order the proper size bearings, install wrist pins, and assemble everything. Basically all I have to do is, put on the heads, and everything else is cake (which I have done numerous times).

rrmedicx

iTrader: (54)

OK Well then it seems that you've got things under control. Cool. I got the impression that you were not mechanically inclined. The timing chain is another fun project you can look forward to. Again, not impossible if you have the service manual ($10 on ebay).
Good Luck with your build. Document as much as you can and you always have us (the forum) as a resource should you have any questions. We've all been there at some time or another.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (2)

Thanx, Yea i have been taking alot of pictures and keep track of the things iv been doing, I like to post things up to give others more info, specially when doing some of the things myself. Yea tell me about it, the timing stuff is not fun lol. But im kinda of mechanically inclined, iv done the timing stuff alot of times already, got all the lining up and procedures memorized lol, actually I am using the 3.0 timing equipment on this 3.5, so iv had some experience putting together a engine (except for what im doing now as far as building the shortblock)

Blwn_By_Twins

iTrader: (6)

I somewhat agree with what your saying. I used to build motors for streetbikes. I've built many Hayabusa's with over 250whp and GSXR 1000's with over 220whp & I know more than a little about building motors. Having no experience with a VQ and the little difference in price between building it myself vs having the LB assembled by someone with extensive knowledge with the inner workings of these motors was not worth it to me.

OP take your time, ask questions and don't rush anything. You should be fine. I commend you for taking on such a task in your backyard and hope it turns out great for you. There is nothing more satisfying then a doing a job right yourself. On the other hand I can't imagine how pissed you'll be after finishing if you find out you made some unknown small error that fubars your motor. GL!

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

there are not 3 different grades persay (as in quality), but there are various sizes

you need to get a full service manual, there are charts that tell you how to decipher which bearing combo you will need - of course you also have to have things properly clearanced by a machine shop as well

you also will want a revup oil pump, new water pump, new thermostat, full engine gasket set, and it's a good time to check the condition of the idler pullies, as they get noisy over time, and begin to wobble off center

streetzlegend

iTrader: (2)

Thanx alot, I will be taking my time as you guys suggest in doing this properly, too much money is involved (for my budget) to screw something up. I will get a rev up oil pump, the water pump is new as well as the gaskets (still need the head gasket though), idler pulley and tensioners are all new including chain tensioner, as well as the thermostat. I just spoke with the shop QuadCam recommended, I really like how Laz explained himself and how his knowledgeable about our motors. I am going to be getting a quote from him later on today.

Thanx alot for the advice from all.

rrmedicx

iTrader: (54)

The price in purchasing long blocks have come down significantly, since the introduction of the HR motors and the simple fact that our motors are getting older. So why not just save a few bucks and let the pro's handle the hard detailed work. Like I said, if you have the tools and know how you can handle just about any task in your backyard. It can be crude but still effective. But the OP came across as a sort of newbie to me and maybe I just misinterpreted his level of experience.
I am not a mechanic but I would still sleep better knowing that the long block was assembled to spec. There is too much that can be done incorrectly.
I too am a backyard DIY and have gotten removing the motor down to a 5 hour task (in my backyard). So I know what it takes to do the job. Just trying to help out the OP in knowing what he is getting himself into. That's all.

My .02.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (2)

Yea I didnt wanna come off as a smart *** by saying i know wat im doing n all that, because although I do have experience taking apart a motor, I dont have experience on the actual shortblock, everything else I am confident about. I actually put this motor into my maxima myself, so im a bit mechanically inclined.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (2)

I just got a quote via email from Mesa and holy crap, more than doubled the price I had been quoted through the shop I have been talking too. $1,829. assembly alone is $600.

In you guys experience, is using a torque plate to bore/hone something really required? the initial shop I was going to use does not have a torque plate for our engine, but they said they do hundreds of Nissan and Honda engines without using torque plate and no problems, that is not really needed for street/weekend drag racing engines, usually more on high end, high hp motors. the Mesa shop does use the torque plate, but like i mentioned its double the price, (was quoted only $940 at the 1st shop)