Engine Break in process, help.
Sup all, I have been doing some research on whats the best way to break in a newly built motor and still cant get a straight answer.
How do you guys recommend I go about breaking in my motor.
Its a vq35 with Wiseco pistons, eagle rods, acl bearings, built for boost. I dont have an engine builder to ask (iv been told alot to ask my builder), but I built it myself.
So far iv let it idle for a few minutes, let it warm up, changed the oil, after that I put about 10 miles on it, varying rpm and gear, trying to not keep it at a constant speed/rpm. What other advice do you guys recommend, is it ok to let it go into boost? should I be doing any WOT quick burst yet? should i take it easy for certain miles. I just need guidance as how to go about this. Like what steps to take and at what miles do what. etc...
Thanx in advance.
How do you guys recommend I go about breaking in my motor.
Its a vq35 with Wiseco pistons, eagle rods, acl bearings, built for boost. I dont have an engine builder to ask (iv been told alot to ask my builder), but I built it myself.
So far iv let it idle for a few minutes, let it warm up, changed the oil, after that I put about 10 miles on it, varying rpm and gear, trying to not keep it at a constant speed/rpm. What other advice do you guys recommend, is it ok to let it go into boost? should I be doing any WOT quick burst yet? should i take it easy for certain miles. I just need guidance as how to go about this. Like what steps to take and at what miles do what. etc...
Thanx in advance.
Sup all, I have been doing some research on whats the best way to break in a newly built motor and still cant get a straight answer.
How do you guys recommend I go about breaking in my motor.
Its a vq35 with Wiseco pistons, eagle rods, acl bearings, built for boost. I dont have an engine builder to ask (iv been told alot to ask my builder), but I built it myself.
So far iv let it idle for a few minutes, let it warm up, changed the oil, after that I put about 10 miles on it, varying rpm and gear, trying to not keep it at a constant speed/rpm. What other advice do you guys recommend, is it ok to let it go into boost? should I be doing any WOT quick burst yet? should i take it easy for certain miles. I just need guidance as how to go about this. Like what steps to take and at what miles do what. etc...
Thanx in advance.
How do you guys recommend I go about breaking in my motor.
Its a vq35 with Wiseco pistons, eagle rods, acl bearings, built for boost. I dont have an engine builder to ask (iv been told alot to ask my builder), but I built it myself.
So far iv let it idle for a few minutes, let it warm up, changed the oil, after that I put about 10 miles on it, varying rpm and gear, trying to not keep it at a constant speed/rpm. What other advice do you guys recommend, is it ok to let it go into boost? should I be doing any WOT quick burst yet? should i take it easy for certain miles. I just need guidance as how to go about this. Like what steps to take and at what miles do what. etc...
Thanx in advance.
In general, it's ok to do some full throttle bursts, but keep the rpms down. Loading the motor, and then backing off in gear and building good vacuum can help seat the rings.
I'd give it a couple hundred miles of gradually increased pressure, don't be afraid to step into it, but don't twist it up to redline. After you get some time on it, change over to whatever oil you are actually planning to run and have at it.
you don't have to stay under 3000 rpms.. just don't apply a great amount of throttle.. you should vary around the RPM range.. and it should be for at least an oil change.. 3000 miles.. give the rings some time to seat.. a little boost is also ok.. just don't go flooring it with your foot pressed at 100% throttle
thats why i put "extremely", not knowing if its on boost yet or not...because thats one of the safer ways to break it in....but yes i do agree with you though when it comes to beating the engine up right away
i think the most horrible experience of driving my car was breaking in a new engine.. the anticpation sucked
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Gus.. quick question.. that link is for brand new cars.. would that still apply if you had a built motor with over 600 whp? or is this link under the assumption the car is a brand new engine from the factory with under 300whp? running 600whp would bring more cylinder pressure right? would that affect the seating of the rings? or would the same theory apply?
ha that anticipation must have eaten you alive!!!! but yes that is a rumor i heard too that you should beat the hell out of it right away, but i think thats just retarded....who knows i could be wrong
Yea i have that bookmarked and iv read it a few times, just was worried if that was a good method or not.
Right now im using penzoil 10w40 dino (because its on sale and its not a bad oil i dont think) also using a breaking additive with high zinc n phos..
Tomorrow im going to change the oil again and start driving it. Thanx for the tips guys, Im mad nervous when driving the car, dont know what to expects, its my first build.
Also, I have an auto and I have a manual switch for my torque converter, would it be a good ideal to lock up the TC during low rpms and acceleratel slowly, to load up the engine a bit?
Right now im using penzoil 10w40 dino (because its on sale and its not a bad oil i dont think) also using a breaking additive with high zinc n phos..
Tomorrow im going to change the oil again and start driving it. Thanx for the tips guys, Im mad nervous when driving the car, dont know what to expects, its my first build.
Also, I have an auto and I have a manual switch for my torque converter, would it be a good ideal to lock up the TC during low rpms and acceleratel slowly, to load up the engine a bit?
Last edited by streetzlegend; May 24, 2009 at 06:38 PM.
Gus.. quick question.. that link is for brand new cars.. would that still apply if you had a built motor with over 600 whp? or is this link under the assumption the car is a brand new engine from the factory with under 300whp? running 600whp would bring more cylinder pressure right? would that affect the seating of the rings? or would the same theory apply?
I did have the benefit of having the car tuned for the boost levels on the first engine.
I do wish the dyno had been available like I have it now and I would have just spent a day on the dyno doing progressive pulls for a day or two and be done with it.
I have not met anyone that has done that method I quoted but I figured it would generate some discussion
i'm thinking if i bought a brand new car.. C6, M3, GTR.. i would have no problem doing it, because it would be up to the dealership to prove otherwise if something went wrong.. but after spending so much on a built engine and knowing there is no factory warranty.. i'm less reluctant to be the guinea pig.. which is why i broke in my bike hard.. because i know i had the factory warranty
i'm thinking if i bought a brand new car.. C6, M3, GTR.. i would have no problem doing it, because it would be up to the dealership to prove otherwise if something went wrong.. but after spending so much on a built engine and knowing there is no factory warranty.. i'm less reluctant to be the guinea pig.. which is why i broke in my bike hard.. because i know i had the factory warranty
I was easy, no bosst and only up to about 4000rpm for about 300 miles. Then I dropped the oil, put synthetic and started tuning it. I'm at about 1000 miles and so far so good. I saw 20psi on the gauge tonight, I still have some tuning to do... :-D





will be boosting hard soon