indeed it is very interesting.

am wondring how well this setup hold up and how its compare to sleeved VQ in strength and engine temp ?

 

Thanks for the update Bobby!!!

 

What kind of power are you looking for when this is all said and done?

 

You are correct sir!..

 

Any new pics?

 

any update

 

^+1

 

I've known some speed shops to use this strategy when building 1/4 mile cars. They actually utilize some kind of engine specific cement to fill all of the water ports. There is no need to use water cooling when the car is only on for 1/4 mile. Doesn't have to endure any where near the temps of a daily in traffic. And its 1 less thing to worry about leaking. No coolant = no coolant leaks.

Interesting project. Curious to see how long it lasts. What are the build plans. Twin Turbo set-up? Big Single? Supercharger? Do share. Track car? 1/4 mile exclusive?

 

There are a couple of different companies that make block guards for our motors. The ones I found are KMS and SuperTech. The SuperTech look to have more details in them.

The SuperTech block guards are $192 (plus the cost of tig welding and decking).

http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-252955.aspx

If you like buying parts of Ebay, the KMs block guards are $130.

From a structural sense, the block guards make alot of sense. From the little research I have done so far, it appears that they are not as strong as sleeving, but reduce cylinder movement in high HP builds. Some people are claiming that they do reduce cooling in the upper part of the cylinder, which would not be good. Nonetheless, both the SuperTech and KMS block guards have numerous small cooling passages and, of course, they will need to be drilled out with much larger cooling passages to match those in the head gasket.

Another solution could be to only use portions of the block guard at structurally significant locations. For example, instead of completely surrounding the cylinders and then drilling holes, perhaps weld in a 2" section on the two opposing portions of each cylinder that are aligned with the rotation of the crank.

 

OP, thanks for bringing this build to our attention!!!

I just spoke with Sam at GTM. We are adding block guards to my 4.0L stroker motor he is building for me.

 

George, you can take pics of mine after you guys complete it.

When you or sam get a chance, I would like to get your machinist's thoughts on whether to use the block guards as is or to only place pieces of them at strategic locations, as I described above.

 

you mean like this ??

http://www.homemadeturbo.com/tech_pr...block_posting/

 

Will have pics hopefully today the block is back and starting to be assembled. It looks nice and perfectly matches the headgaskets. Btw we had a 5 angle valve job done too

 

Nice

 

Yes, kind of what I was thinking. Indeed, from other posts I just came accross, the best way to install a block guard is to have it recessed lower than the top of the cylinders and welded in place (some are recommending only to weld the outer portion, not the portion against the cylinder). Merely pressing a block guard into place without welding it seems to be a source of some problems.

Regardless of which method is used, this should be done before the cylinders are bored and hoaned.

Here is one link I came accross from this forum some 4 years ago:

https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...o-sleeves.html

I'm somewhat surprised more people did not investigate this further as an option to be used instead of sleeving given the temperature issues with sleeving. If it were not for the temperature issues, I would have opted for sleeving.

Perhaps it might be prudent to use only portions of the block guard as I described above, and recessing these as far down in the gap as practical before welding. The pins as described in the link you provided also can be added for further support.

EDIT: This is educated speculation here, but I would assume that you would want to make sure that the distance between the bottom of the cylinders and the pins should be different than the distance between the pins and the block guard pieces. This should reduce any resonances that may occur.

 

but will these studs really hold the movement of the block ? couldn't find enough info about it
=======================================================
good info about block gard
http://www.b20vtec.com/forums/engine...rd-good-2.html

 

It seems to me that any additional support for the cylinders will be beneficial so long as they don't overly restrict coolant flow or put additional stress on the cylinders.

 

+1
I wish I knew about those when I did my build, I would have put them in.

 

thanks for Good info ttg35fort and 350z-900whp

Also, any update from this build?

 

Nice build. Looking forward to updates.