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My 2003 g35 coupe vortech install

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Old 07-17-2009, 03:27 PM
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binder
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Default My 2003 g35 coupe vortech install

here are a few pics. did the install myself. had help with some of the fuel maps from a friend named Tim on my350z.com (he basically made me a great map and since that i've tuned it a little more based on my logs)

2003 g35 6mt coupe
JVT headers
JVT test pipes
Borla true dual exhaust
vortech supercharger FMIC
2.87 pulley
Split Second ecu piggyback
Vortech FMU inline fuel management (6:1 recal kit) with walbro pump
In-tank walbro fuel pump
5/16" intake spacer
DW 440cc injectors
1 step colder NGK plugs
245/45/18 front; 275/45/18 rear mounted on Motegi Togue rims
Dual Innovate wideband sensors
Innovate auxbox sensor input
Innovate LM-2 datalogger (loggins 32 channels, so basically everything)
AEM wideband gauge
Defi oil temp gauge
Defi Boost/vac gauge

To be added soon:
Mickey Thompson 305/35-18 drag radials
Competition Clutch 6 puck carbon clutch
180 deg theromostat plate with front mount oil cooler
Attached Thumbnails My 2003 g35 coupe vortech install-sany0806.jpg   My 2003 g35 coupe vortech install-sany0809.jpg   My 2003 g35 coupe vortech install-sany0813.jpg   My 2003 g35 coupe vortech install-sany0816.jpg   My 2003 g35 coupe vortech install-sany0821.jpg  


Last edited by binder; 07-18-2009 at 10:30 AM.
Old 07-17-2009, 03:32 PM
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binder
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With adding these pics I would like to personally thank Tim (oldman350z).

He helped me out quite a bit with the software and datalogging I needed from Innovate. It was hard for me to get used to this stuff from the bike world but he answered every question I have.

Very smart guy. I trust what he says 100%.

The pics in here where I ran my o2 and other sensor wires are in the drivers fenderwell and they come through a factory gromet by the fuse box. Great place for running wires through the firewall. They are covered by a inner fender cover so they are protected from elements. That should help for people who can't find firewall gromets.
Attached Thumbnails My 2003 g35 coupe vortech install-sany0828.jpg   My 2003 g35 coupe vortech install-sany0835.jpg   My 2003 g35 coupe vortech install-sany0839.jpg   My 2003 g35 coupe vortech install-sany0842.jpg   My 2003 g35 coupe vortech install-sany0843.jpg  

Old 07-17-2009, 03:32 PM
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superchargedg
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Very nice and props for doing it yourself.I installed my Greddy twins myself with the motor in the car and it just feels good to say you did it yourself.
Old 07-17-2009, 03:38 PM
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The first pic here is my return line then the bottom fitting is my temp sensor for the Defi gauge.

Then we have my makeshift 14.95$ GT pulley mod. It's a 2.5" smooth pulley with a 6203 (or is it 6302) bearing exactly like the other idler pulleys but smaller. I used vortech spacers on it and taped the plate myself. Fits perfect like the others. The only problem is the belt slightly rubs the timing cover at times. There is space when the motor is off, i think under power it might barely touch. I'm afraid to grind more off the timing cover though.

Next we have my fuel pressure sensor and my T line into the large vacuum from the intake.

The next is my DIY catch can from a compressor filter. My greddy knock off wouldn't fit anywhere in the engine bay so i used this instead.

Then my gauges.
Attached Thumbnails My 2003 g35 coupe vortech install-sany0832.jpg   My 2003 g35 coupe vortech install-sany0851.jpg   My 2003 g35 coupe vortech install-sany0852.jpg   My 2003 g35 coupe vortech install-sany0853.jpg   My 2003 g35 coupe vortech install-sany0859.jpg  

Old 07-17-2009, 03:39 PM
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Last but not least my Innovate LM-2 datalogger. Super bad ***!

I have more pics but they are huge and taking forever to load. I'll get some other pics of up close things soon. I think i have pics of all the major stuff.
Attached Thumbnails My 2003 g35 coupe vortech install-sany0861.jpg  
Old 07-17-2009, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by superchargedg
Very nice and props for doing it yourself.I installed my Greddy twins myself with the motor in the car and it just feels good to say you did it yourself.
wow, that was probably a chore! I would have just pulled the motor .

Congrats to you for that. I was thinking that it couldn't be done without pulling the motor.
Old 07-17-2009, 04:26 PM
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Great job. So it seems like the car is done and rolling, did you put it on a dyno yet? Those headers are giving you a close shave with the steering rod. What did you do with the bolt on there.
Old 07-17-2009, 07:06 PM
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i haven't dynoed it yet. The dyno here apparently shut down. I haven't had a chance to make a full day trip to another dyno 2 hours away. I've been street tuning it to get it pretty close. I also did some 1/8th mile runs to log more data. I was in the 8.7's and ran one 8.59. I was spinning through 3rd gear and my 60' times were only about 2.2 due to the tire spin.

I'm going to be on vacation for a week and a half for a wedding so i'll make a dyno appointment once i get home.

The steering knuckle was hitting. I ground that bolt down a lot and ground the whole knuckle down. Every now and then when i'm on decel it will rub but it's better. I need to dent the header more because i don't think i can take much more off that knuckle.
Old 07-17-2009, 09:11 PM
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good work!
Old 07-18-2009, 04:07 AM
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binder
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Thanks! I'm going to heading through ATL on monday. I would like to stop by the shop there at Forged. I'll send you a PM sharif.
Old 07-18-2009, 05:18 AM
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gabe3d
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Originally Posted by binder
i haven't dynoed it yet. The dyno here apparently shut down. I haven't had a chance to make a full day trip to another dyno 2 hours away. I've been street tuning it to get it pretty close. I also did some 1/8th mile runs to log more data. I was in the 8.7's and ran one 8.59. I was spinning through 3rd gear and my 60' times were only about 2.2 due to the tire spin.

I'm going to be on vacation for a week and a half for a wedding so i'll make a dyno appointment once i get home.

The steering knuckle was hitting. I ground that bolt down a lot and ground the whole knuckle down. Every now and then when i'm on decel it will rub but it's better. I need to dent the header more because i don't think i can take much more off that knuckle.
Those are pretty good numbers! Keep us updated on your progress.

Yeah, that's the exact same problem I had. The shop shaved the nut and the steering rod as much as possible, but when i corner a little aggressively it would still hit. I bought an engine torque dampener and that help out, but for a piece of mind i switched out the headers.
Old 07-18-2009, 06:02 AM
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sick mann!! looks good
Old 07-18-2009, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by gabe3d
Those are pretty good numbers! Keep us updated on your progress.

Yeah, that's the exact same problem I had. The shop shaved the nut and the steering rod as much as possible, but when i corner a little aggressively it would still hit. I bought an engine torque dampener and that help out, but for a piece of mind i switched out the headers.
thanks! i'd like to be in low 8's on the 1/8 mile. When i get these slicks on i think i could probably shave a good amount of time off my 60'. That 2.2 60' is killing me! I'm also babying the launch because i'm spinning tires all the way through 3rd gear and i don't want the car to kick sideways and hit a guard rail. With the new clutch and tires i'm hoping to get my 60' under 2 seconds and be under 8.5 in the 1/8.

sad thing that night at the track, there were liter bikes running in the 9's! lol, i laughed my *** off. The fastest bike was a 7.49 and it was a cbr929. That is still pretty sad. On my 636 i ran under 7's. 6.92 was my fastest time though.

Originally Posted by Vas@Extended
sick mann!! looks good
thanks! have you posted pics of your setup yet? i'd like to see it also. Good luck with the seal rebuild.
Old 07-18-2009, 10:00 AM
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did u do a 6/1 or 4/1 recalibration for the fmu or did u just leave it and add the injectors and pump?
Old 07-18-2009, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by tylerxfire
did u do a 6/1 or 4/1 recalibration for the fmu or did u just leave it and add the injectors and pump?
funny you ask. I was just talking to Tim about that. I put a 6/1 recal in it and i'm seeing around 58 psi with my walbro pump until 4k rpms then after 4k rpms at WOT the fuel pressure increases up to 97psi at redline. I was concerned about that being too high and he was explaining to me how to calculate it. With a 4/1 he showed i should be sitting in the mid 70's which i might try. Only thing that sucks is those recal kits are around 70$ after shipping from vortech. I had to purchase the 6/1 already because mine had an 8/1 stock.

i'll add that to my main page.
Old 07-18-2009, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by binder
funny you ask. I was just talking to Tim about that. I put a 6/1 recal in it and i'm seeing around 58 psi with my walbro pump until 4k rpms then after 4k rpms at WOT the fuel pressure increases up to 97psi at redline. I was concerned about that being too high and he was explaining to me how to calculate it. With a 4/1 he showed i should be sitting in the mid 70's which i might try. Only thing that sucks is those recal kits are around 70$ after shipping from vortech. I had to purchase the 6/1 already because mine had an 8/1 stock.

i'll add that to my main page.

yeah im about to do a setup with 440's, and 255, and recal kit but im not sure now which one i wanna go with, i dont know if the 440's will have enough flow with the 4/1 kit...do u know what ur duty cycle is at now on the injectors? i think 97 psi at redline is high but not undo-able as long as its under 100psi from what ive been told..

do the 4/1 already and see if they flow enough and what the duty cycle is at and psi so i know..lol
Old 07-18-2009, 02:24 PM
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tim's calculations states that mid 70's would be what i would get with 440's, 4:1, and intank walbro.

I have not only the intank but the inline walbro with the vortech FMU.

The recal kit is like 70$ after shipping so i'm not to excited to just "test" it when i need new slicks. Tim said in the mid 70's for pressure might not be enough flow.

You can get the re-cal KIT which is a little more money but has all of the recal rings. I should have done that. a 6:1 works perfectly. My pressure will drop if i drill my swirl jet on the walbro out a little more. I didn't go the full size that the mod says to. I was one drill size smaller than recommended.

Duty cycle at 6600 rpms and WOT (12psi boost) i'm seeing 82% duty cycle. I think in one of my many logs i might have seen 83% but non of my recent logs show 83.....the highest is 82% as i look through them.
Old 07-18-2009, 03:51 PM
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sweet install
Old 07-18-2009, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by binder
tim's calculations states that mid 70's would be what i would get with 440's, 4:1, and intank walbro.

--yes this is correct
I have not only the intank but the inline walbro with the vortech FMU.


--yes i know, same as what i am doing
The recal kit is like 70$ after shipping so i'm not to excited to just "test" it when i need new slicks. Tim said in the mid 70's for pressure might not be enough flow.

--thats what im saying, i dont know if the 440's will flow enough with the 4/1, but they may i want to see before deciding which one im gonna go with 6/1 or 4/1...
You can get the re-cal KIT which is a little more money but has all of the recal rings. I should have done that. a 6:1 works perfectly. My pressure will drop if i drill my swirl jet on the walbro out a little more. I didn't go the full size that the mod says to. I was one drill size smaller than recommended.

--good to know i am gonna go with the recommended
Duty cycle at 6600 rpms and WOT (12psi boost) i'm seeing 82% duty cycle. I think in one of my many logs i might have seen 83% but non of my recent logs show 83.....the highest is 82% as i look through them.

--also good to know, with the 4/1 it would be a very high duty cycle with the 440's, higher than i would want to go
Old 07-18-2009, 07:47 PM
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^^that post came up all messed up, my comments are also in the blue section


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