Just make sure you have a little extra left over for injectors and a 2.87 pulley. 3.33 and 3.12 pulley get old really fast.

 

Yeah im planning on buying the complete kit, im pretty sure the injectors are included in this one.

How much is the upgraded pulley, does it require another tune?

 

man my friend made almost 330 to the wheels with bolt ons on his 350z so i dont see how you couldnt get more than 400 out of a supercharger and a tune also this was on a mustang dyno im sure he still has his dyno sheets also his car was running very rich too at the time sure he could have gotten closer to 350 with his standalone MAP ecu so do your home work anything really over 400-450 on stock block is really pushing it without building your block

 

The complete kit does not include injectors, I believe the only things you get over the 'tuner' kit are a fuel pump, SS box, and FMU. The best thing to do is get the tuner kit and add a Walbro pump, and then get tuned on Uprev. I also added 660cc injectors, but that is not required. The other pulleys are only around 70-80 bucks, and yes you would need to get tuned again.

 

i'm not telling the OP not to buy a vortech sc, i just shared my opinion/experience. wasn't he looking for that in his first post?

plus, when i said $20k, i'm including everything and i mean everything. shipping stuff from the US to Bahrain isn't anywhere near reasonable.. tuning, mechanical work isn't as cheap as what you get in the US. i'm also including my engine build cost. heck, 350z price from the dealership was $42k+, insurance cost around $3k. so another 5k-10k and u get a used '07+ Z06?

All of that doesn't mean it has to apply to you. it's my experience.

on top of that, i did mention that many factors made my car produce only this much. Auto being 1 reason, we also got 91 oct (can't remember if it was PON, MON or RON), my motor only made 210whp on DJ which doesn't indicate it's really healthy (even tho i've done all the checks that proves it's a good motor and all), and temp and humidity can't be beaten in my area.

my experience is this ^, whether it applies to the OP or not is a different story. this is how much it cost me to get to my goal (still to be reached) which is 400whp.

OP, not my intention to put you away from this, but keep in mind, there are always customers with bad expereience, so look at both side and weigh ur choices.

GL

maX

 

dyno sheet or it didn't happen.

 

 

Just be sure you know your power goals. You can get 420+ RWHP on stock internals. I have had a Vortech on my car since 2004. It was one of the 1st SC Zs in North Texas. Currently have 110,000k miles on my car and 100k miles with the Vortech on stock internals, stock clutch, stock transmission, stock flywheel. Its is a daily driven car as you can tell by the miles. Other than having the blow off valve rebuilt once and replacing the belts twice, no issues with the system. I would go straight to the 2.87 pulley, bigger injectors, and possibly larger fuel rails. Ditch the under drive pulley (counter productive)

Get it properly tuned and you will be in good shape. Have fun and stay safe.

 

Thanks a lot, I aim for a daily driver so it sounds like its perfect!

I'm just wondering about this one thing, whats wrong with the FMU, do you recommend it. Iv read in the instruction manual that if I get a tune certain parts of the warantty no longer applies. If this is the case then I guess the FMU also is reliable?

 

Comes with SS box and I believe it only tunes in 500 RPM intervals. I bought larger injectors and upgraded the fuel system to a fuel return system with fuel pressure gauge.

 

Damn, you have a lot of miles with your setup. If I go FI, I will most likely go this route. Having a car that has a lot of horsepower that isn't half reliable doesn't make any sense to me. I would rather have a decent amount of power and reliability than a lot of horsepower and no reliability.

 

Fast, Cheap, Reliable, you can only have two.

 

100k miles on a Vortech wow! Haven't you even needed to replace seals on it?

 

Honeslty the only downside to daily driving a vortech is that your gas mileage takes a significant hit, I only get around 17mpg. All you need to run the 2.87 pulley is an injector upgrade and a re-tune. Tuning the SS box is not very difficult, there are instructions floating around the interwebs as well as very knowledgable members on this forum.

 

Vash that Sucks, you have something going on their......

Do you still run your car extremely Rich?

I just went on a 220 mile run and Verified my Gas Milage of 29 MPG.......

 

Around the city when I'm boosting it's in that 16-17 range but highway driving I agree with OldManZ you should be getting 29 mpg or so even with a supercharger.

 

No work has been done to the SC itself. Just had to send the blowoff valve back 2 yrs ago for a rebuild. I check oil and change regularly (5k miles) using 5w30 Mobile 1 synthetic.

Last time I checked was was getting 18-20 MPG city and mid 20s on highway.

 

MaXmood was unlucky with his setup and so was I, both of us with broken engines... that's why 20K$

but if it all goes well and you get 350-400 hp from the Vortech.. that's well spent money IMO

 

When crusing my A/F floats in the 13.5-14.5 range, I was under the impression that that was normal. Can you even tune part throttle conditions with the SS box?

 

I had my Vortech on since 2004, car has over 95k miles on it now. So the engine has seen most of its life with the blower on the car. Only issue I have had is worn out belts and one bad idler pulley. All in which was an easy fix.

The rattle noise will always be heard on all Vortech units. It's the gear noise when the blower spins in very low speeds. I have heard V-1, V-2, V-3 all with these noise. I'm lucky that mines is not that bad, however I have heard some where it is super loud.

With the noise it does eliminate the higher the RPM's are. Most people just raise up their RPM to sit around 800-1,200 at idle. This normally does the trick where the rattle sounds get eliminated and the whine sound is dominate.

Also on V-2 units I do know of some people getting that sound from a pinch return line on the oil side. If the oil does not drain from the blower freely it tend to be louder than normal.