Hopefully that was helpful to you

 

sounds great very mild

"i love my turbo 350"

 

traction problems not completely gone but i can hold most of second now at 10psi. Not sure what was causing this but was experiencing some sharp lateral movement when it was pulling hard Gs. Could have been the road, not sure. any ideas? I wonder if there are any Deletes from the GTM kit I have forgot about (can't remember about front sway bar)....seems to be the front end of the car. I know the strut tower bar was deleted. I swapped the rear tires to the front and there is a little stretch going on with 245-45 on the 9.5" wheel but I don't think that would cause it.

New Rollers/Rubber:

 

Wrong Jeff. It's 3x 20% credit cards and selling any additional vehicles you may have to focus your assets to your remaining VQ powered money pit! Oh, regular donations of plasma can help too

 

the crash bar is gone which ties the frame rails together.

 

^is that a known issue with cars without crash beams? I've never heard a word about it.

 

It would kind of make sense, I don't think it would make THAT much of a difference though. Although if the strut bar and the front crash beam are both gone I could see it actually amounting to some front end shifting under higher load...
Maybe you were just taking the turns faster than you had before and noticed the nose play on the car? I know when I first got my r888's I started driving a bit more aggressive and the car definitely felt different. Felt like the nose was a lot lighter... Although that could have to do with the 245/305 setup, or the lightened chassis (we're not sure yet if the parts we took out to remove the convertible top were totally structural or not lol).

Side note, anybody know what the 2 weird weights are for (1 in the passenger side trunk, and the other driver side in front of the tire)? Idk anybody who's ever seen it before and don't know what to call them... (for searches). We wanted to take them out, but they seemed important... I thought they were sensors of some kind, but I don't think the front one has any wires attached to it...

 

I didn't notice a difference in the front without strut/crash beam...though maybe my suspension setup is a bit more aggressive then f150's.

 

Tires are rubbing in rear. Time for negative camber and a fender roll. I really don't want to run wacky camber. Maybe I go with the 10.5" wheel which is better suited to the 285 with a +28 offset which will require a 10mm spacer, still roll the fenders.

 

It was straightline where I felt it but I'm starting to think it was the road. Didn't realize it was slightly rutted.

 

****, i laugh at people that i hear of that do that for "toys". Then i laugh harder when they destroy the engine and still own 15k in bills on something that's broken.

I have a zero card balanced with all my vehicles paid for. I'll never take out a loan for something that can be a total loss at an instants notice.

Hmm, i never noticed any issues when i removed mine. I only started having some instability on WOT when i went to drag radials over street tires. I can see how it would allow more flex in the frame though.

 

Yes, the crash bar is gone. However, it is replaced by the intercooler. Unlike other FMIC's that require removal of the crash bar, ours has mounts that bolt to the frame rails and the intercooler becomes part of the vehicle structure. Also, because our FMIC is bar and plate as opposed to tube and fine, it actually has quite a bit of strength in the same direction as the original crash bar. Therefore, you won't lose structural rigidity like everyone in this thread is implying.

As far as the strut tower brace is concerned, all of the kits we will be shipping from here on out will include revised piping to clear the factory brace.

 

What about us who already have the kit and were told we would be able to exchange our piping when the revised version was available? Been waiting a year to find out when this would be available wrapping up my build here in the next week and it would be nice to be able to put my strut back on.

 

Send us your pipes and we'll get you new ones sent out within a couple business days.

 

Possible to purchase a set and have it refunded when you receive mine? Don't wanna be out pipes for a few days XD

 

Ditto, I would love to have the newly revised pipes. but would rather pay then get refunded when I send the old pipes in.

What say Mike?

 

Just keeping an eye on this

 

Roll or cut the fenders if needed.

Why would you run more negative camber on larger tires just to clear the setup? That defeats the purpose.

Congrats on getting your car up and running.

 

Thanks Alberto. Agreed. Current plan is to roll.

I have a loud clicking noise coming from the rear of the car on 1st and 2nd gear accel decel (low speed). Noticed it after installing the bigger tires. I think it is the axle clicking. Very annoying. Talked to z1 and they suggested impacting the axle nut down tighter usually gets rid of it. Will try that when installing the diff.

 

Wayyyy back in the day earlier Z's had a TSB about that. The dealer would regrease them and put em back in IIRC. I had it done in 2003.

Its easy to pull em/ check em, or do what Z1 suggests as they know more than me.