If you can avoid buying a used kit I would highly recommend it. Whatever kit you decide to go with, aim for a new kit. Unless you are doing all the work yourself, used kits will be more expensive in labor + parts most of the time due to all the more variable involved with things missing, etc..

 

Strafe Do-Luck Replica...$400.00
Work VSXX's...Pending sale $3500.00
HR Hood... $400.00
ARC Induction Box w/Suction Tube... $500.00 Pending sale
Authentic Top Secret Carbon Lip... needs repair $200.00
Turbonetics Turbo kit... $2500.00 Pending sale
Work Equips 18x9.5/10.5 +16/+9... $1700.00
CZP Akebono BBk w/Stoptech slotted rotors and stainless lines... $1500.00

 

And that means what???

I thought TN discontinued the kit years ago, so the "New" kits that are out there are really just original kits that never sold. I don't remember them ever upgrading components other than doing the oil and water cooled turbo and maybe offering the longer AC line.

I don't knock the TN kit, I had one. I just wouldn't recommend it when BP and Momentum are out there. I disregard PL because I don't think there is much spport for that particular kit (bmccann101 may disagree since those are his boys).

 

Unless that includes a perfect turbo, injectors, pump, colder plugs, necessary heat wrap, and all the lines and hardware, it's not really $2500.

Say it is complete, an Osiris tune will run $600 at the cheapest, and unless he is installing it himself and has all the tools then there goes the $4k budget. Not to mention getting the car to a tuner and sorting out any problems.

And all that on top of having a exhaust, clutch, etc already.

It's ignorance that blows motors and produces weak numbers.

 

I have have tons of money I wouldn't even miss $4,000 but I am going to buy a used 1/2 *** kit, we have heard that more than once in here. Come on if you don't miss 4K you wouldn't be worried about an extra couple grand on a turbo kit.


I see this going badly for both our know it all n00bs.....then again I guess the rest of us are just delusional because we have no idea what it takes to make power with forced induction VQs.


Remember to handle your turbo kits with white gloves no one wants to be guilty of turbo abuse....

 

Damn, you guys make me want to sell my car and all the parts I have sitting in my living room waiting to be installed wit this comradery!!!

 

lmao

 

Link to the Marketplace

You're Welcome

 

lmao

 

DAMN this is the first thread that starts with "EBAY", and never end with flames and newb s**t. hahahahahaha

 

Take note of how it goes when you ask for help and opinions from those that have been there and done that and try to tell us how the ebay or godspeed kits are going to be fine.

 

the kit was an APS single.

not godspeed. Although, I wish someone would buy one and install it. I bet it would be just fine for a stock block.

 

It may work once fitted, but that is where the problem comes in. I doubt that thes (ebay kits) will bolt on, and things will line up just right, especially in such a tight engine beay.

For example, here is a picture of a set of Megan headers in a jig that houses the OEM header perfectly. You can see how off it is, and how this can be a huge problem when trying to bolt up a turbo kit for example





It was easy for me to modify the headers, and make them just like OEM's, but how many have the tools/skill to do that. When I bolted the driver side header to the engine, the driver side turbo pipe could not be bolted to it, as it would hit the subframe under the car. There was no way it would fit. Again, easy for me to make it right.

Just imagine how bad the ebay/godspeed stuff can be.

I take great care when it comes to making sure that every one of these kits fits just right, and I doubt those manufacturers do the same. There is a lot more to fabrication than just cutting things, and welding them together.



EDIT:

Didn't take long to find a problem without ever seeing the kit. Look at how low the downp pipe V-band flange is,now you have to add another section to that to mate to the OEM exhaust. It will be on the ground by the time you add the second section in. How are you going to install the first wideband in the down pipe without having the wires melt on the crossover section of the exhaust?






I really like pictures, they never lie.

 

The fitment looks pretty bad there, I did not buy the godspeed turbo, I am going Vortech since I have good full bolt on (mostly tomei). But I found this video of a guy at the racetrack running a godspeed FI http://www.streetfire.net/video/gods...50z_643367.htm .

One thing I would like to point out is this, with the amount of vendors and potential business available on this site, it would be in Godspeeds best interest to post install videos and actual dyno results of their product. This is what scares me about these kits, their product is slandered on sites like this everyday and they have nothing to say to defend it, it's almost as if they are agreeing with the naysayers by remaining absent in these forums and not standing up for their product...

 

O.K., maybe he should not have been condescending, but he does have a point... grammar and punctuation are VERY important.

One, people will take you more serious if you come off as sounding educated to some degree.

Two, without proper writing, the real meaning can sometimes get misinterpreted:

Here's an example:

"I helped my Uncle Jack off his horse."

"I helped my uncle jack off his horse."

In one, you assisted your uncle...in the other, you're a horse molester.

 

Hey Mr. spelling and grammar you wrote both phrases the same capital letters are not a substitute for punctuation. I hate grammar and spelling arguments and I am far from perfect, but if you are trying to teach someone please get it right.

I would write it like this....

"I helped my uncle, Jack, off his horse."

 

Commas aren't needed.

I was just trying to interject a little humor into the situation...I wasn't really trying to correct anyone...just make them grin.