@str8dum1 - Uprev Osiris Tuner version and you can tune yourself... that's what I use. But you can find some real deals on used UTEC's on here.

 

I run the SSV with my TT setup. The owner at hills garage who did my car has the exact same kit (jwt w/gt25's) on his car with stock plenum.

Mine made better power, however it also shifted the curve to the right about 300RPM's r that also allowed it to make power with no drop off straight through 7000.

 

you would never dump 1300$ into a plenum for a stock block setup either.

If i was to waste the money the ems is the best place. If for nothing else than safety with the knock threshold maps. It's nice to have the data logging so see if something is screwing up as well.

i hated tuning on osiris. had the 700$ tuner version for over a year and it didn't seem to benefit me in any way over the SS box except for raising the idle. It was a nightmare running 2 separate programs trying to look at this data log on one device verses what the osiris was doing then make adjustments.

 

i'd use the money for tires/wheels/suspension/fuel. Tuners arent goin to setup the knock thresholds.

With the UTEC you have to use a 3rd party program to tie AFR to the logs, but it worked great. I knocked out a full AFR map in a couple street pulls.

You arent gonna knock on a supercharger unless you are a retard. There's enough octane in 93 to run 400+whp with proper timing. Thats why i think anyone using meth on a stock block has too much money to spare. all 20/20 hindsight of course

 

true, unless you pay them.

the linked wideband with utec would be more beneficial to me than the osiris in truth. I hated having multiple programs that didn't integrate. I still can't believe after all these years osiris doesn't integrate widebands from a 3rd party. Even the old 300z's do. Hell, my room mate's 87 turbo coupe links the innovate widebands into his stock rom modifier.

i agree with the bold, but how many blow s/c blocks have we seen around here?! i'm too lazy to search and post but you know....you know

 

as it is i have wheels on the way (forgestar f14's), along side a basic tein coil over. From my understanding fuel pump/higher cc injectors are a must?? and around here only 91 octance and e85 are offered. but at the moment a 1/2 spacer with the original plenum seems to be the best overall and a haltech

 

do the 3/8ths spacer (the 1/2 doesn't make even a hp or two more I think, and really just lets you flow out to your redline which ends up being less power under the curve if I recall correctly), utec, and maybe meth injection. With the left over money go get a boss tune or buy a nice exhaust like motordyne true dual and some art pipes.
Motordyne is a sponsor on our site, hit them up. That exhaust sounds incredible.
Unless you want to go turbo later a haltech really isn't necessary.

 

As far as exhaust i got a Borla TD; i personally love the sound and a fan of borla.
but ill check into the 3/8ths and hit up motordyne. Meth injection i will have to read into, i've never experimented with it or researched it. How would it react with the vortech? vs nitrous?

 

Do you have test pipes? If not, check out the ART test pipes. They have a built in Helmholtz Resonator on each one that makes your exhaust have near zero drone (as opposed to standard test pipes) with all the power gains possible. Great piece, also by Motordyne.

Meth injection is nothing like nitrous. If you do go that route, you will want a professional tune to maximize the potential.
Essentially you inject a mixture of methanol and water which has a two part effect. The first part is done mainly by the meth. Injection lowers your intake temperatures. This directly increases horse power and increases your threshold for knock/detonation. That in turn allows you to increase your timing and more timing means more hp.
The other effect is done mainly by the water, and it too lowers intake temperatures but by a much much smaller amount. Mainly the water quenches the heat in your combustion chamber. Due to the basics of thermodynamics it's perfect for detonation prevention. The heat attacks the coldest part of the chamber, in this case the water first. Then when the water absorbs all the energy it can it expands into steam steam cleaning your combustion chamber and exhaust ports in the process. This quench effect (when done at the correct ratios) allows you to again increase your timing, allowing for more hp to be made.

I encourage you to read up on it, but in general what you will want for your application is a progressive water meth kit. These can be had for about 400$ or less. I'd recommend running a 50/50 mix of water and methanol, NOTE that's by weight not by volume!!!! You will definitely want a tuner to tune with the injection. Basically it's similar to having higher octane gasoline.



I haven't yet done any calculations on what's better for ultimate power, running all water or all methanol but I intend to. I want to come up with a thermodynamically based theory on what will allow for the most power.

 

i will agree with many of the points posted.
Haltech is great if you can wait a really long time if you have issues w the item as the warranty is scary.. they are in Australia.
Osiris seems to be becomming the standard.
While an NA car may see a minor differnece between one plenum to one spacer to another spacer.. for FI, they can really help.
AND.. its not about the extra airflow at that point, its about evenly feeding all cylinders.. and THAT is something you surely want to have happening in an FI situation for safety and for the lineraity of the engines conditions and tune.

Good job on a set of great performance oriented wheels btw (F14). You will like them.. they are very light and keep the rotating mass near the center of the wheel, all very important things. I have some myself, although Ive never driven with them yet.

Fuel system and the tune software are where you will want to spend the cash then since you already have the suspension and tires thing dialed in. Im doing osiris for big built block FI, but havent found out its bad points yet as my engines still not even built yet. ( FML).

 

I agree.

I have used a 3/8" plenum spacer and currenty have the Cosworth Plenum. The Cosworth Plenum is beautiful and a piece of art, but it is just that. Yes, at relatively high boost levels, it does provide a bit more torque/hp, but at the OPs HP level, I don't think it would make a difference. The 3/8" plenum spacer is the way to go. The 1/2" plenum spacer may help a little with peak HP, but gives up a little broadband torque in comparison to the 3/8" spacer.

 

Spacers don't do much if anything for power adding in an F/I setup. But they theoretically get more equal flow between front/rear cylinders, which is a plus.

 

awesome, thanks for all the info and input gentlemen

@Resmarted thank you for that quick lesson with what you have stated it sounds like it will be a must. I might have to save up a little more so i can do this all at once and get everything tuned all at once.

 

i know, i'm at 650hp with only 22psi right now. stock plenum. There are quite a few stock plenum setups on high hp here.

I'm not sure if i'll ever get to a point when there aren't more important things for my car than a plenum that costs 1300$ Full coil overs, upgraded axles, new seats with harnesses....the list goes on.

 

You'd be fine getting the meth kit later. What you could do is save up for pulley and meth kit while you run the stock kit + good tune, then go in for retune with the meth and the pulley upgrade, maybe even cams if you really want more power.
One mod that people don't really do that IMO is worth doing is installing hr valvesprings and hr cams in a DE. You get 1mm more lift and at least 8deg more timing on both side. Also you will be able to rev and make power out to 7,500 if you installed the high rev oil pump too. I looked at it and new hr valvesprings and hr cams ends up costing about 460$. I also know one of our members ran this setup with a 1/2" spacer on his big single turbo build and made power straight out to 7.5krpm.

Something to note about the plenum spacers is that the way it would make power on FI is through evening out cylinder flow. It basically creates an "equal pressure" gradient throughout the plenum which smooths out flow. Smoothing out flow reduces the 'air friction' coefficient in a way. I think in our case the difference isn't very great until you get into the high rpms where the engine naturally doesn't breathe as well. In other cases smoother flow/equal pressure can make a lot more of a power difference. In most FI setups I wouldn't consider it a big deal though.

 

^^^ Resmarted... any idea what the cost vs whp is for the springs and cams? The parts seem cheap enough, but its the labor to get to the cams that kills you on this. You end up almost ripping down to a shortblock.

 

Yeah, I know that. I've torn apart 1.5 vq's now Should probably have told that to OP...

 

im already running jwt s2's no upgraded valve springs. and i want to run
the 2.87 pulley right off the bat.
As plenum goes im running the kinetix v+ right now. Rethinking i may just see what it can do with the vortech. I really like how the v+ stays cool which may actually do really well with the sc. I might do a few extra dyno's to see how it compares to a stock plenum.

the final parts list will be:
(what i have now)
kinetix v+ plenum
jwt s2's
megan racing headers
HFC's
borla td

Planning:
vortech (v2 or v3) 2.87
art test pipes
ecu
lightweight pulley

the meth kit i will wait on.

 

I hope you don't mean those stupid unorthodox racing pulleys. Those ruin motors... Skip that, the rest is gravy.

 

I currently have the unorthodox pulley on there. About to put the oem one back on, i dont feel safe with it. Going to replace it with an AMS lightweight pulley thats not under driven.