Awesome! Looks great. Definitely on my "to do" list.

 

we still have snow on the ground with more on the way... still haven't had a chance to drive the car since I got this completed. what a crappy spring.

 

For those with the aps tt kit how did you hook up the turbo coolant return line to the swirl tank? Did u just directly remove it from the heater hose tap and straight from the turbo to the swirl tank? Or did you leave the turbo return line plumbed into the t joint on the heater hose and just make a new plumbing from the heater hose to the swirl tank? Anyone Have close of pictures of this part?

 

Check my last pic. You can see the ss line that comes directly off the turbos going directly into the tank

 

Zivman, have you had a chance to run it hard to see if it worked yet?
So I flared an exhaust pipe with visegrips, welded a nut to it, then ran the included nipple into the nut for nothing?.. They make a piece for that?

I should start making single turbo kits the way I made my rad fluid "T". I'd probably do better than a lot of the companies popping up... OG APS TT FTW!! lol

 

If you guys want an overflow tank with higher capacity, I have a solution. Here is a pic of one of my custom HR tanks that I mounted in an APS DE that kelt overflowing the APS tank. He said he never had the problem again. I just made 2 simple brackets and it mounted perfectly...

 

I dont check in this thread much so send me a PM if you have any questions.

 

I have not. Temps just shot up a couple days ago. finally broke 50 on thursday. We have 70's now... basically from 35-45 then instantly to 70's. unfortunately for me, that means lots of work on the farm and no time to drive the car. worked from 6am till past midnight the other night, then 6 till almost 10 last night. kind of dragging ***, but hoping today or tomorrow I can drive the car a bit

 

just so people know, that isn't the same thing as we are discussing in this thread... that is just extra capacity. In my experience, that won't resolve the issue. It will simply mask it for a longer period of time. In addition, that is in a g35, I don't think that same size tank would fit in a Z

 

I have driven the car "daily" for the past week.... which is daily round trip to the gym for a total of 8 miles a day. that said, the temps seem the most consistent I have seen; granted the temps here haven't topped 70. Regardless, the coolant temps rise very consistently vs the 10-15 degree jumps I would get before. I need to check the levels in the expansion tank, but at this point all seems good.

 

Sweet!

In other news. I haven't had any problems with overflow since throwing on a Koyo 1.3 bar cap and letting the car idle for at least 1 minute after driving hard.

 

Hi All

Just finished install of my hand made can on my APSTT Zee
Fixed the coolant issues and its way easier to swap the coolant now.

Let me know what you think


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Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

So are you guys blocking off the T piece where the factory bleed position was after moving the turbo coolant feed or putting the original bleed fitting back on?

 

I have removed the stock tee completely, because the pressure cap does a better job.

But I have seen other people keep the bleed tee in the factory location and connect the turbo return slightly further down the factory rubber hose.

 

That is a different way to plumb it. seems odd you incorporated the heater hose into the system like that. if it works, great.

my system has been flawless. I did have to top off the system twice now...talking like 4-5 oz a time, just to make sure the expansion tank is about half full.

I have 150 miles on the setup, ~ -12-13 psi. seen 14.3 spike one time(Peak Hold indicated). car will not go above 195 while driving and will only creep to 203 when idling. the fans kick in and it will drop to <190.

Really happy with the setup.

 

The reason for running the heater line through it is, I can fill and top up the coolant from the highest point in the system fast (-12AN Speedflow Fittings)

Since install I have driven the car twice.
After the first drive I topped it up (maybe 0.5L) once it had cooled down.
At the end of the second drive all the air had made its way out of the system.

.

 

So this is some pretty serious necro-posting... But I'm having this issue. Have been for a few years now since I installed my greddy TT kit. Looks like this is the fix.

Zivman- what did you connect to the one top port? You refer to it as the t for the turbos and originally the bleed. I have a grrddy kit so I am not famiar with this. Do you mean the stock coolant bleed screw in the heater hose?

 

on the APS kit there are water lines feeding the turbos. they come out the LHS of the motor and daisy chain from LHS turbo under the motor to the RHS turbo. They they return where the OEM bleed strew is coming off the heater core.

What I did was run that feed into the tank. I'd have to look to see what line you would want to run into that port seeing as how you don't have water being fed through your turbos. I would guess you could just not use that port and cap it off and run everything else the same

 

I was wondering the same thing. My thinking is the cavitation (cavities?) would be removed through T in the lower radiator hose. Though it may be a longer bleeding process than what you have.

 

I reread some of my earlier posts. It seems you would want to feed the other port from a hot side feed coming off the head. You'd have to do a little digging to find the right feed