At 8% the math puts the estimate at about 385. I said I thought it was low cuz I was thinking about my engine which is built so 7% of 350 is much higher than 235-240

 

But how does this calculation make it so easy to tune like you said in an earlier post? You just add the amount of boost to achieve the power you want to make? That's so much simpler than the way everyone else has been doing it. Also, I'd like to know why it's easier to make power on a built motor vs. a stock motor at the same psi? What components on your built motor are helping you make more power than your stock motor? I like your ideas, everyone else here makes this stuff too complicated.

 

Define "built engine" to me, a built engine is a block that has it's internal replace with forged parts.

 

umm... What?

(* 366 1.07) = 391.6

7% error = +/-7%

Or am I incorrect?

 

Shhhh. I like the OPs answers the best. Haha.

He still hasn't told us what color car he is going to buy.

 

Or the turbo kit he "made" haha

 

Stock exhaust restricts air from exiting, therefore creating backpressure, which increases cylinder pressure, theoretically increasing boost on all 4-stroke engines.

So that 366.6 estimate would be 10% higher with a stock exhaust

 

for your calculation, even a "built" engine will not put out 350hp N/A, at least probably not in your budget.

I am still curious about what parts you have in your "built" trans, driveshaft and diff. As well as what turbos you have and what engine build parts you have.

 

Don't forget about the previously upgraded driveshaft, transmission, and diff from the first post. In due time I'd like to hear more about those, but first, we need to get this turbo kit, tuning, and built motor sorted out.

 

Well since his turbo can produce as much boost as he wants, I'll buy it from him and run 5000 psi ^.^

 

Using his whp calculation, my car was an over achiever then cuz I made 430whp at just under 8psi on my lowest setting.

I wonder what I'll end up with once o swap out to those quad eBay electric turbos in series?

 

Well since you're making 430 on a single turbo

430x4=1720 rwhp. That's reasonable and not a bad gain.

 

I missed this important piece of info. I did not realize that you had already "built" your motor and your car makes 350hp at the wheels. That's probably the highest whp N/A motor anyone has built short of the stroked ITB HRs. Congratulations. As soon as we figure out how you did all of this, this thread will surely be sticky'd.

 

What... No way bro. What should I do now. Quad eBay electric turbos or wait till we find out what turbo he uses? !

If I end up going with his turbo will I have to buy a few more EBC cuz mine can only handle 150psi. So if a stack a few EBC how should I wire them? If I wire then in series I might get a slower response on the boost controller. Maybe parallel to avoid boost creep and turbo lag with quicker response.
What to do?

 

Doesn't really matter since his n/a will beat our boosted cars anyways :/

 

Hell yeah then. That's perfect then cuz I was looking for over 1500whp. Man you're awesome. With this and the weight reduction I can definitely pwn my friend Honda Civic Hatch on the 1/4. I just hope he doesn't ask me for a 40 roll Highway run cuz then I might need a better solution.

 

Race for pinks bruh

 

Uhh that's where you're wrong. The hatch only needs 50% of your 350z HP to keep up with your car because it is 50% lighter.50%+50%=100%. Plus since it's FWD it pulls the weight rather than pushes. That's why we pull trailers and not push them because it's more efficient. So pull 90% more efficient then push.
90% efficiency x 50% power of 1500whp vs your 10% efficiency of 1500whp.

1500 * 10% = 150whp. 83.4 * 90% efficiency x2 weight= 150whp.

Your 1500hp wont pull his civic unless he's running on 3 cylinder

 

I'm definitely getting a civic to pull my trailer then. That's at least 180% efficiency.

 

I'm going to have to look up G35 FWD conversion. I think I have to mount my VQ sideways or something like that.