vq35 turbo reliability
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vq35 turbo reliability
Hey I'm new to the boards and trying to find out some info about the G35. I'm currently looking for a daily driver car that I can super/turbo charge for extra fun. I've been looking at a Lexus IS300 for a while, it has lots of potential with its 2JZ block, but people have lots of issues with the internals (tranny especially) when they try to up the HP.
After looking around the G35 coupe seemed pretty nice. I wonder though, how strong is the VQ35 block and internals in the G35? And is the motor something that boosts well?
After looking around the G35 coupe seemed pretty nice. I wonder though, how strong is the VQ35 block and internals in the G35? And is the motor something that boosts well?
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First, what type of transmission are you planning on getting? I got a manual, generally speaking it can take more betting.
Let us take the car section by section in brief:
Engine: First you have to decide do you want to run with a turbo / supercharger or not. If yes then you have to think of the boost level. If the boost level is more than 5psi, you should think of changing the internal parts of the engine (Pistons, rods, etc.) if less than 5psi than the engine can survive with that boost. However, with 5pi you will have around 350 HP at the wheels.
Transmission: and let us assume that you will get a manual transmission. If you are going to increase the HP more than 80 HP over stock, then its highly recommended (by me ) to change to the clutch plate and disc.
Differential: In my opinion the stock LSD is good
Suspension and Wheels: This to me is the most important. If your engine produces 1000 HP, however, the wheels keeps on slipping (Burning rubber) then you just lost all the power!!!
So if you are planning to build a car then you have to plan it right. I personally like to start from the outside going inwards. Meaning I will start, with wheels, then suspension, differentials, transmission, fuelling system, and then the engine. And on the engine I start from the outside I figure what I want to do, what is me goal, then decide on the external parts (Turbo, Supercharger, etc.) then see and ask if I need to change any of the internal parts.
You can spend as much as $24,000 plus labor to make a killer, but do you want it to be a killer or a daily car. You can spend $2,000 or less and by happy with it. Set your goal.
Overall, the 350Z track / Touring or the G35 is an excellent car to start with.
That’s my 2 cents
Take care,
Az
Let us take the car section by section in brief:
Engine: First you have to decide do you want to run with a turbo / supercharger or not. If yes then you have to think of the boost level. If the boost level is more than 5psi, you should think of changing the internal parts of the engine (Pistons, rods, etc.) if less than 5psi than the engine can survive with that boost. However, with 5pi you will have around 350 HP at the wheels.
Transmission: and let us assume that you will get a manual transmission. If you are going to increase the HP more than 80 HP over stock, then its highly recommended (by me ) to change to the clutch plate and disc.
Differential: In my opinion the stock LSD is good
Suspension and Wheels: This to me is the most important. If your engine produces 1000 HP, however, the wheels keeps on slipping (Burning rubber) then you just lost all the power!!!
So if you are planning to build a car then you have to plan it right. I personally like to start from the outside going inwards. Meaning I will start, with wheels, then suspension, differentials, transmission, fuelling system, and then the engine. And on the engine I start from the outside I figure what I want to do, what is me goal, then decide on the external parts (Turbo, Supercharger, etc.) then see and ask if I need to change any of the internal parts.
You can spend as much as $24,000 plus labor to make a killer, but do you want it to be a killer or a daily car. You can spend $2,000 or less and by happy with it. Set your goal.
Overall, the 350Z track / Touring or the G35 is an excellent car to start with.
That’s my 2 cents
Take care,
Az
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Ehh, there are MANY stock motored Z's and G's making a nice reliable 400+ RWHP. 350 is a number that pops up if you toss in the Vortech kit or something. The internals will hold to at least 450 RWHP if you have the car properly tuned. The Z needs ECU work to run boost as it comes aggressive NA and that is detrimental for FI.
#7
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And the stock LSD is good? No way! This thing is a viscous LSD! If you're running boost and track your car, the LSD will poop out on you in no time! You better upgrade it to a clutch-type LSD if you plan on doing some serious driving after you upgrade to forced-induction.