Am I missing anything?
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Am I missing anything?
hello, new to the forum. My names Devin. I purchased an 04 G35 coupe last September and have loved the car every day since. Its a 5AT but I got it for a steal. Last month, I picked up another 04 G35 but this one has the more aggressive looking aero, brembo brakes, and a manual trans. $1300 with a bad rod bearing. I think I got a decent deal. I am attempting to build a 700whp g35 without killing myself financially. Below are the components I believe I need to make this build happen. The turbo kit is not included as I am looking to purchase one used.
If you notice I missed something, please let me know. All feedback is much appreciated.
If you notice I missed something, please let me know. All feedback is much appreciated.
#2
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You don't have to upgrade the stock valves, I belive the stage 3 kit already comes with with a rebuild kit (Gaskets and things), Don't have to get the metal motor mounts, the intake manifold is also very debatable but personally i love the look.
You need to upgrade your valve springs and get a Rev-up oil pump (i think this is also part of the stage 3 kit).
You need to upgrade your valve springs and get a Rev-up oil pump (i think this is also part of the stage 3 kit).
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You don't have to upgrade the stock valves, I belive the stage 3 kit already comes with with a rebuild kit (Gaskets and things), Don't have to get the metal motor mounts, the intake manifold is also very debatable but personally i love the look.
You need to upgrade your valve springs and get a Rev-up oil pump (i think this is also part of the stage 3 kit).
You need to upgrade your valve springs and get a Rev-up oil pump (i think this is also part of the stage 3 kit).
#4
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You don't have to upgrade the stock valves, I belive the stage 3 kit already comes with with a rebuild kit (Gaskets and things), Don't have to get the metal motor mounts, the intake manifold is also very debatable but personally i love the look.
You need to upgrade your valve springs and get a Rev-up oil pump (i think this is also part of the stage 3 kit).
You need to upgrade your valve springs and get a Rev-up oil pump (i think this is also part of the stage 3 kit).
#5
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There is a huge debate on what is the best manifold. Most people just run a DE lower manifold or MREV2 Lower with a plenum spacer. From what I've read on here they say the best intake manifold is the Cosworth but its stupid expensive. The Kinetix doesn't get much love, the main advantage to the Kinetix is your hp curve wont fall nearly as sharp at the top end like it does with the stock plenum setup.
Then you need to buy one, this will allow you to rev to ~7500 ($200), if you plan on going crazy to like 8k you need a nismo ($1300), cosworth ($600), or there is another one for sale here on the fourms that is good until 8500+ for $900.
You also need to make sure you upgrade to ARP Studs!
A billet griddle would also be wise.
#6
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http://www.suckerpunchmotorsports.co...-vq35de-03-06/
Here is the $900 and best oil pump available for our cars.
Here is the $900 and best oil pump available for our cars.
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It's the common consensus that 100% stock heads will flow up to 600Whp. Most people only change out their valves to go bigger or to lighten them up a little bit so they can rev higher a little more safely.
There is a huge debate on what is the best manifold. Most people just run a DE lower manifold or MREV2 Lower with a plenum spacer. From what I've read on here they say the best intake manifold is the Cosworth but its stupid expensive. The Kinetix doesn't get much love, the main advantage to the Kinetix is your hp curve wont fall nearly as sharp at the top end like it does with the stock plenum setup.
Then you need to buy one, this will allow you to rev to ~7500 ($200), if you plan on going crazy to like 8k you need a nismo ($1300), cosworth ($600), or there is another one for sale here on the fourms that is good until 8500+ for $900.
You also need to make sure you upgrade to ARP Studs!
A billet griddle would also be wise.
There is a huge debate on what is the best manifold. Most people just run a DE lower manifold or MREV2 Lower with a plenum spacer. From what I've read on here they say the best intake manifold is the Cosworth but its stupid expensive. The Kinetix doesn't get much love, the main advantage to the Kinetix is your hp curve wont fall nearly as sharp at the top end like it does with the stock plenum setup.
Then you need to buy one, this will allow you to rev to ~7500 ($200), if you plan on going crazy to like 8k you need a nismo ($1300), cosworth ($600), or there is another one for sale here on the fourms that is good until 8500+ for $900.
You also need to make sure you upgrade to ARP Studs!
A billet griddle would also be wise.
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#8
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There was a company that did flow checks on the DE heads Stock vs ported vs stock HR heads. The Ported heads flowed roughly 25 more CFMs up to so is that worth the money to you? The Ported heads were about on par with stock HR heads.
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Bigger cams will wake it up, up top. We have very small 240exh and 238in at 9.37 lift.
There was a company that did flow checks on the DE heads Stock vs ported vs stock HR heads. The Ported heads flowed roughly 25 more CFMs up to so is that worth the money to you? The Ported heads were about on par with stock HR heads.
There was a company that did flow checks on the DE heads Stock vs ported vs stock HR heads. The Ported heads flowed roughly 25 more CFMs up to so is that worth the money to you? The Ported heads were about on par with stock HR heads.
#10
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Sorry man that's above my knowledge. Your best bet is to call JWT or someone like that and ask sorry man
https://my350z.com/forum/shop-builds...-manifold.html
This is my thread asking about porting and polishing. Also has article about the head comparison.
https://my350z.com/forum/shop-builds...-manifold.html
This is my thread asking about porting and polishing. Also has article about the head comparison.
#11
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If it was me...and not to crap all over your thread but rather give you a little bit of perspective...
Don't do this build to an AT car or a G35. I don't think the AT can handle 700whp without some addition help. And would you really want to drive a car with that much power going through an automatic transmission? Yes, you can swap the trans but its not a guarantee it'll work and its additional cost/work/hassle.
Sell/part out both cars and find a clean 350z chassis to work on. I don't know the G35 well enough but I think more people have done bigger builds on the Z chassis versus the G chassis and it's my impression that more parts are available for the Z compared to the G - but I'm not 100%.
if you can lower your goal to 600 to 650whp it'll save you $25k. Hitting 700whp will require significantly more engine mods, bigger/more complete fuel system, a higher/more complicated tuning solution, among other things.
inexpensive, reliable, fast ... pick two
350whp-500whp = $7k to $15k
500whp-650whp = $15k to $25k
650whp-900whp = $25k to $50k
This could be ill-fated ... buying a kit used is taking a risk. Plan on spending $1000 to $1500 getting the blowers rebuilt and replacing seals, gaskets, hoses, redo'ing/undo'ing modifications by the previous owner. It's taking a risk. I bought my greddy kit used for $1800 (included the intercooler) and I spent around $1500 refreshing the kit.
For simplicity, knowing it's done right, and probably less expensive long run just get a stage 3 built block from IPP or Z1 (or whomever). $12-$15k ... you don't want to risk everything on 'refreshed' block.
Plan on spending $5k to $8k on a all inclusive turbo setup.
plan on spending $500 to $1000 on cooling modifications (radiator/oil cooler) - you can make that much horsepower without generating significant amounts of additional heat.
plan on $1000 for tuning / dyno time
plan on $2000 to $3000 for a tuning platform including accessories like wideband sensors, temp/pressure sensors, addition CAN items.
plan on $500 for in-cab gauges/feedback (you know you'll want them)
plan on $1500 for a better exhaust/test pipes
look into Motordyne's intake / intake mods rather than the kinetix - the kinetix will cost you power.
Don't do this build to an AT car or a G35. I don't think the AT can handle 700whp without some addition help. And would you really want to drive a car with that much power going through an automatic transmission? Yes, you can swap the trans but its not a guarantee it'll work and its additional cost/work/hassle.
Sell/part out both cars and find a clean 350z chassis to work on. I don't know the G35 well enough but I think more people have done bigger builds on the Z chassis versus the G chassis and it's my impression that more parts are available for the Z compared to the G - but I'm not 100%.
inexpensive, reliable, fast ... pick two
350whp-500whp = $7k to $15k
500whp-650whp = $15k to $25k
650whp-900whp = $25k to $50k
Plan on spending $5k to $8k on a all inclusive turbo setup.
plan on spending $500 to $1000 on cooling modifications (radiator/oil cooler) - you can make that much horsepower without generating significant amounts of additional heat.
plan on $1000 for tuning / dyno time
plan on $2000 to $3000 for a tuning platform including accessories like wideband sensors, temp/pressure sensors, addition CAN items.
plan on $500 for in-cab gauges/feedback (you know you'll want them)
plan on $1500 for a better exhaust/test pipes
look into Motordyne's intake / intake mods rather than the kinetix - the kinetix will cost you power.
Last edited by bealljk; 10-11-2017 at 09:04 AM.