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Aiming for at least 26psi. I know I could get more switching my Fluidampr for an ATI HB but I'm gonna see where I sit at first before I start working on the little bits.
I thought about it for a while, if I somehow run across issues I might have to pull everything and do that.
Correct! Since I had to get the crank polished and balanced from the last engine blowing, I just went ahead and opted for the .001 undersize.
Aiming for at least 26psi. I know I could get more switching my Fluidampr for an ATI HB but I'm gonna see where I sit at first before I start working on the little bits.
I thought about it for a while, if I somehow run across issues I might have to pull everything and do that.
Correct! Since I had to get the crank polished and balanced from the last engine blowing, I just went ahead and opted for the .001 undersize.
right on - I was thinking you gotta be mid-20 psi to hit 750. You can always drop in the ATI and the girdle after the fact. It looks like many of the bigger power guys are using the dynosty girldle.
Im somewhere in the middle for oil clearance. Crank is being polished and I took my rods big end openings to the top end of the OEM spec. I’ve got both HX .001 and OEM and I’m not 100% which to use.
^ I'm really considering pulling my motor in May to drop in a Dynosty billet girdle and ATI street damper too. Car's running 20 psi right on a 6266 PL kit.
Would definitely run a billet girdle if I were building a motor now though, huge hassle to add it down the road and if you're just waiting and seeing if you need one first you're going to end up trashing your center main bearings before then.
Last edited by thatv35guy; 02-21-2019 at 06:27 AM.
If you’ve come this far it might be foolish/short-sighted to NOT install it.
it was a no-brainer (cost:benefit) for me and I anticipate pushing 2/3rd of your goals.
I'm honestly not too concerned about it.
A friend of mine is currently running 886whp on his Twin 20G without a billet without any problems. He's had the build for quite some time. (he was running Eagle rods if anyone was curious)
If all goes wrong, the shop has a new VQ37 laying around I'd just swap in for kicks.
A friend of mine is currently running 886whp on his Twin 20G without a billet without any problems. He's had the build for quite some time. (he was running Eagle rods if anyone was curious)
If all goes wrong, the shop has a new VQ37 laying around I'd just swap in for kicks.
Sure is, and luckily he was using the exact clutch I was. Definitely a relief there.
So new update, sorta.
Shop is overwhelmed with cars in line for the dyno. (I guess being the only loaded AWD dyno in central texas will do that. Basically crowded with GTRs and STIs.
Just when we were about to slide it onto the dyno, the battery was completely dead. Sent it to get tested at an auto parts store only to find out they lost it.
Today they decided to give us a loaner until they investigate the lost battery. I have NO idea why its taking them that long. (O'Reilleys btw)
Now I'm back into the queue of Dyno time so it's just another waiting game. In the mean time, I decided to renew all my fluids with Amsoil products. (Transmission, engine oil, Diff oil, coolant, and a new batch of E85)
Hopefully something will come up soon so I can enjoy driving it a bit before working on the DP nitrous setup.
After looking at costs and future costs, I decided to push this build a step in a completely different direction.
Quite frankly, in the long run, building this car on a convertible chassis will be counter productive. (Roll cage, fixing convertible top, fixing body damage, fixing this, fixing that....)
With the approval of the wife, I'm trashing the 350Z and swapping out the powerplant into a MKIV Supra. Luckily there's already plenty of support for slapping on the CD009, although I've yet to see a single VQ swapped supra.
Personally, I think it's hilarious. With all these 2JZ swapped 350Z, it's time for a VQ swapped Supra.
Wish me luck on this future journey. (Sometime within this year, right now I'm in process of finding the right roller)
After looking at costs and future costs, I decided to push this build a step in a completely different direction.
Quite frankly, in the long run, building this car on a convertible chassis will be counter productive. (Roll cage, fixing convertible top, fixing body damage, fixing this, fixing that....)
With the approval of the wife, I'm trashing the 350Z and swapping out the powerplant into a MKIV Supra. Luckily there's already plenty of support for slapping on the CD009, although I've yet to see a single VQ swapped supra.
Personally, I think it's hilarious. With all these 2JZ swapped 350Z, it's time for a VQ swapped Supra.
Wish me luck on this future journey. (Sometime within this year, right now I'm in process of finding the right roller)
Words like counter productive, COST, future cost. Don’t sound like they should go into a post about swapping a VQ into a 2J car unless you start the sentence with, swapping a VQ into a Supra is counter productive and will COST. I love the VQ platform in a Z, in a 240. But it truly would be a waste of money to drop one into a Supra, counterproductive and cost you out this world for end goals much larger achievable with a 2J IMO. Unless your main goal is hate/uniqueness I PERSONALLY think it’s horrible idea. Trash the very, buy a roller Z coupe be done. Best of luck regardless 🤘🏽
Originally Posted by 0taku
After looking at costs and future costs, I decided to push this build a step in a completely different direction.
Quite frankly, in the long run, building this car on a convertible chassis will be counter productive. (Roll cage, fixing convertible top, fixing body damage, fixing this, fixing that....)
With the approval of the wife, I'm trashing the 350Z and swapping out the powerplant into a MKIV Supra. Luckily there's already plenty of support for slapping on the CD009, although I've yet to see a single VQ swapped supra.
Personally, I think it's hilarious. With all these 2JZ swapped 350Z, it's time for a VQ swapped Supra.
Wish me luck on this future journey. (Sometime within this year, right now I'm in process of finding the right roller)
Im currently waiting on my friend to swap out his NA for a VVti setup so we can mock the extra VQ bare long block and transmission. We will see how difficult it will be to manage with the headers on the steering rack.(if needed, I might even have to find a RHD depending on the fitment) The second problem will be the space for the blower and bracket. Assuming the mock up works out right, I’ll post updates. Honestly, I’ve never been a huge fan of the Z33 chassis. (If all else fails, we will be going the 280z route) Funny as it is, the amount of body work, paint, and vert repair is pretty close to the price of a rolling shell for a mk4.
As soon as the Vette sells and the mock up is a success, I’m going to pull the trigger on this project. To be frank, the 2J got too overrated and I couldn’t trash the motor build and start new again.
Originally Posted by Colombo
Words like counter productive, COST, future cost. Don’t sound like they should go into a post about swapping a VQ into a 2J car unless you start the sentence with, swapping a VQ into a Supra is counter productive and will COST. I love the VQ platform in a Z, in a 240. But it truly would be a waste of money to drop one into a Supra, counterproductive and cost you out this world for end goals much larger achievable with a 2J IMO. Unless your main goal is hate/uniqueness I PERSONALLY think it’s horrible idea. Trash the very, buy a roller Z coupe be done. Best of luck regardless 🤘🏽
Build still on the back burner until I sell off the Vette, then I'll get back to progress again. (Pending sale today, so hopefully it'll be soon)
Dyno tune stuck on hold until I get a meth/nitrous kit. (Methanol going to be used pre-blower to cool the unit, then doing the fancy work to get a direct port to work with the Kinetix manifold)
Still shooting for the 900s, possibly 1000 if I can pull it off without blowing the motor. (which I'm eventually anticipating before I go the closed deck route)
port injected wmi isn't smart … spray pre-maf / pre-iat or you wont be able to tune for it and wont be recognize your gains. Albeit, it's a great insurance.
And running E85 and water methanol is duplicate and you may not get the gains you are expecting from wmi as the e85 is already stable under extreme compression.
port injected wmi isn't smart … spray pre-maf / pre-iat or you wont be able to tune for it and wont be recognize your gains. Albeit, it's a great insurance.
And running E85 and water methanol is duplicate and you may not get the gains you are expecting from wmi as the e85 is already stable under extreme compression.
Very late response, but the wmi is mostly for reliability and safety. I'm not really doing it for gains per say.
The build has been put on hold for a while, mostly because I'm still searching for a suitable shell.
Finding a 280zx/mk4 supra shell is becoming fairly tedious and I'm still saving until I find the right one. Sticking with a heavy vert just doesn't seem ideal for me anymore mostly because finding a good shop that'll do a rollcage while still keeping a working top is difficult.
the wmi is mostly for reliability and safety. I'm not really doing it for gains per say.
happy to hear the build is still alive!
Do as you please and all in my opinion but pre-turbo, pre-MAF(if applicable), and/or pre-TB will do far more for your reliability than port-injected.
I say this bc pre-turbo will assist in cooling your turbo, the intake, the IC, the TB, etc and provide the steam-clean effect for the entire length of the intake track, the WM will also have more time to atomize in the intake charge prior to fuel.
what if you did both? Put a small / medium injector pre-turbo and still run port injection?
Do as you please and all in my opinion but pre-turbo, pre-MAF(if applicable), and/or pre-TB will do far more for your reliability than port-injected.
I say this bc pre-turbo will assist in cooling your turbo, the intake, the IC, the TB, etc and provide the steam-clean effect for the entire length of the intake track, the WM will also have more time to atomize in the intake charge prior to fuel.
what if you did both? Put a small / medium injector pre-turbo and still run port injection?
just a thought
I think you misunderstood the port injection part. That was meant for nitrous rather wmi. The wmi was planned pre-blower.
Corvette finally sold, now I have the long wait process of finding a new shell. For a while I wanted to swap it to a MK4 Supra but finding a shell is damn near impossible. So now I’m just waiting on a good priced 280z.
With the 280z I’ll have a lot more front engine space. I’ve spoken to someone I know and when the times right, going to start on making some 10-Rib pulleys to get this system to work. I know that has its own unique demand so I hope to share it to give him business as well as fix the problem every Vortech owners hate with high boost.
I don’t see this build finishing until late 2020 or even 2021.
Ordered the ZPE 3.00" Griptec Pulley, I'm really curious about it.
Adding an additional oil cooler + scavenge pump for the blower. (pre-cautionary measure, maybe help it live longer)
HR tensioner. Going to do a little pulley juggling and belt measuring like Tim, just a different route because I don't feel like copying.
Yank the dang 2200cc's again and get them cleaned out. Luckily there's someone local that does it.
As for why it keeps getting postponed lately. I been messing around with carbon fiber the past 2 months and my interior is completely ripped out atm.
I'll be skinning the interior with some chopped fibers aka "forged fiber."
Here's the cubby door I finished recently which was my first project. (I'm also working on several other friend requests on parts)
02-20-2019, 04:55 PM
