VORTECH RWHP Question
Hello guys..........ok I just raced a 427 Cobra Jet, my neighbor and he got me by about one car length, he did have the jump out of the hole and he runs in the mid to upper 12's in the qrt. I must go faster!
Question:
My baseline dyno is 333rwhp......my A/F is very conservative and low 10's in the upper rpm band. What would be required as far as tuning to be near 370rwhp? That is the question for you.
A/F adjustments to 11.4:1 across the board and slight timing?
Please give input on tuning requirements to acheive 370rwhp, but engine reliability is very important to me.
THXS!
FluidZ
Question:
My baseline dyno is 333rwhp......my A/F is very conservative and low 10's in the upper rpm band. What would be required as far as tuning to be near 370rwhp? That is the question for you.
A/F adjustments to 11.4:1 across the board and slight timing?
Please give input on tuning requirements to acheive 370rwhp, but engine reliability is very important to me.
THXS!
FluidZ
fluidz, my recommendation is to gradually increase timing retard starting at 1 degree at say 3500 rpms up to 6 degrees or so at redline.
As for A/F ratio, you'll have higher numbers in between the 500 rpm increments due to the SS box. If you keep those A/F sinusoidal peaks in the high 11s above 6000 rpms and very low 12s between 5000 and 6000 you will fine, in my opinion, so long as you're taking out timing.
But that's just my opinion--based on 4000 miles of daily driving with many WOTs to redline every day.
Keep the belts properly tightened, retard the timing, and keep a regular eye on that A/F ratio.
--Steve
As for A/F ratio, you'll have higher numbers in between the 500 rpm increments due to the SS box. If you keep those A/F sinusoidal peaks in the high 11s above 6000 rpms and very low 12s between 5000 and 6000 you will fine, in my opinion, so long as you're taking out timing.
But that's just my opinion--based on 4000 miles of daily driving with many WOTs to redline every day.
Keep the belts properly tightened, retard the timing, and keep a regular eye on that A/F ratio.
--Steve
after reviewing ENTHUZD SS Box modified map set to 393rwhp on 93 octane gas...........his timing map was set at .5 degrees retarted at 4,500rpm, 1 degree from 5,000-5,999 and 5.5 degrees at 6,000 through redline. Sounds very aggresive to me and I dont have big enough balz to do that.......
Originally posted by fluidz
after reviewing ENTHUZD SS Box modified map set to 393rwhp on 93 octane gas...........his timing map was set at .5 degrees retarted at 4,500rpm, 1 degree from 5,000-5,999 and 5.5 degrees at 6,000 through redline. Sounds very aggresive to me and I dont have big enough balz to do that.......
after reviewing ENTHUZD SS Box modified map set to 393rwhp on 93 octane gas...........his timing map was set at .5 degrees retarted at 4,500rpm, 1 degree from 5,000-5,999 and 5.5 degrees at 6,000 through redline. Sounds very aggresive to me and I dont have big enough balz to do that.......
if you retard the timing, you lessen it, which causes a richer a to f mixture, right??
ifso, would'nt this be a safer (therefor not as risky) environment??
es =
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Originally posted by fluidz
Hello guys..........ok I just raced a 427 Cobra Jet, my neighbor and he got me by about one car length, he did have the jump out of the hole and he runs in the mid to upper 12's in the qrt. I must go faster!
Question:
My baseline dyno is 333rwhp......my A/F is very conservative and low 10's in the upper rpm band. What would be required as far as tuning to be near 370rwhp? That is the question for you.
A/F adjustments to 11.4:1 across the board and slight timing?
Please give input on tuning requirements to acheive 370rwhp, but engine reliability is very important to me.
THXS!
FluidZ
Hello guys..........ok I just raced a 427 Cobra Jet, my neighbor and he got me by about one car length, he did have the jump out of the hole and he runs in the mid to upper 12's in the qrt. I must go faster!
Question:
My baseline dyno is 333rwhp......my A/F is very conservative and low 10's in the upper rpm band. What would be required as far as tuning to be near 370rwhp? That is the question for you.
A/F adjustments to 11.4:1 across the board and slight timing?
Please give input on tuning requirements to acheive 370rwhp, but engine reliability is very important to me.
THXS!
FluidZ
Ok, look. Cooling the intercooler, increasing boost, adding headers and such are all good advice. But first things first. I would estimate that a custom tune of the SS box will add a good 40 HP to your numbers.
Looking at the dyno sheet you've posted where it shows A/F versus RPMs versus boost, it's obvious that you are running too rich from 5000 rpms on up. But you're also running more rich than necessary from 2000 rpms to 4000 rpms. There's no reason the A/F ratio needs to be in the low 11s in that range.
Also, if the R4 software doesn't show 8 psi at 6500 rpms, you might want to recheck the tensioning of the serpentine belt. You should be able to just barely turn the belt completely upside down if you twist it. IMO, if you can easily twist it upside down then it's too loose and you're losing boost.
--Steve
Looking at the dyno sheet you've posted where it shows A/F versus RPMs versus boost, it's obvious that you are running too rich from 5000 rpms on up. But you're also running more rich than necessary from 2000 rpms to 4000 rpms. There's no reason the A/F ratio needs to be in the low 11s in that range.
Also, if the R4 software doesn't show 8 psi at 6500 rpms, you might want to recheck the tensioning of the serpentine belt. You should be able to just barely turn the belt completely upside down if you twist it. IMO, if you can easily twist it upside down then it's too loose and you're losing boost.
--Steve
well I will not be tuning my car for at least 2,000 miles. This is advise from my tuner, COMPTECH USA...........they mentioned and confirmed the 350Z has multiple maps in the ECU and that my car is very very safe as it is right now and want me to hold off for at least 2,000 miles before I tune her to make sure nothing funky goes on if my car swithes to a leaner map.......they also mentioned the safest way to acheive higher HP safely is to tune it slowely over a period of time.
COMPTECH USA......former contract race engine builder for Honda Motorsports international, I think I will listen to there advise. Even the WELL KNOWN HERNY down at MOTORSPORT DYNAMICS in Sacramento,CA stresses his concerns with the 350Z ECU multiple map issue.
Tuned to the optimal point of power is great, but if the stock ECU remaps something a little lean, kaboomo.......that is the unknown issue at this point in the new 350Z short life. ENGINE MANAGEMENT is the MAJOR problem and the UNKNOWN POSSIBLE KILLER of our motors at optimal high HP tuning.
I beleive anybody can yeild super high HP numbers today, the question is who can reliably yeild high HP numbers today and still be driving the car a year or two from now and 20,000 miles down the road?
That is the truth, the whole truth, nothing but the truth and I'm stick'in to it.
COMPTECH USA......former contract race engine builder for Honda Motorsports international, I think I will listen to there advise. Even the WELL KNOWN HERNY down at MOTORSPORT DYNAMICS in Sacramento,CA stresses his concerns with the 350Z ECU multiple map issue.
Tuned to the optimal point of power is great, but if the stock ECU remaps something a little lean, kaboomo.......that is the unknown issue at this point in the new 350Z short life. ENGINE MANAGEMENT is the MAJOR problem and the UNKNOWN POSSIBLE KILLER of our motors at optimal high HP tuning.
I beleive anybody can yeild super high HP numbers today, the question is who can reliably yeild high HP numbers today and still be driving the car a year or two from now and 20,000 miles down the road?
That is the truth, the whole truth, nothing but the truth and I'm stick'in to it.
well I will not be tuning my car for at least 2,000 miles. This is advise from my tuner, COMPTECH USA...........they mentioned and confirmed the 350Z has multiple maps in the ECU and that my car is very very safe as it is right now and want me to hold off for at least 2,000 miles before I tune her to make sure nothing funky goes on if my car swithes to a leaner map.......they also mentioned the safest way to acheive higher HP safely is to tune it slowely over a period of time.
Of course, my feeling is if the install is done well and the tuner is competent, you should be able to tweak it all the way as soon as the kit is in. I've got 800 miles on my install (400 miles at the fully tuned 420hp level) and have had no issues with fuel or timing whatsoever. Driving it to Nashville next weekend so I will give a full report when I return. I should have around 2000 miles on the SC by then.
If you haven't already done it, get yourself a wideband A/F gauge like the AEM UEGO A/F gauge so you know when something goes out of wack.. EGT will help too..
Don't go cheap on the gauges.. they may save your motor one day.
--mike
Don't go cheap on the gauges.. they may save your motor one day.
--mike
I agree with everything said here. As you know, the main reason your numbers are low is you are running uncessarily rich almost everywhere. I would shoot for 12.5 to 11.5 across the board. That alone should get you well over 350hp, and still leave you sufficiently rich to avoid detonation...especially at the higher RPM's.
Originally posted by gq_model_626
I agree with everything said here. As you know, the main reason your numbers are low is you are running uncessarily rich almost everywhere. I would shoot for 12.5 to 11.5 across the board. That alone should get you well over 350hp, and still leave you sufficiently rich to avoid detonation...especially at the higher RPM's.
I agree with everything said here. As you know, the main reason your numbers are low is you are running uncessarily rich almost everywhere. I would shoot for 12.5 to 11.5 across the board. That alone should get you well over 350hp, and still leave you sufficiently rich to avoid detonation...especially at the higher RPM's.
Originally posted by leemik
If you haven't already done it, get yourself a wideband A/F gauge like the AEM UEGO A/F gauge so you know when something goes out of wack.. EGT will help too..
Don't go cheap on the gauges.. they may save your motor one day.
--mike
If you haven't already done it, get yourself a wideband A/F gauge like the AEM UEGO A/F gauge so you know when something goes out of wack.. EGT will help too..
Don't go cheap on the gauges.. they may save your motor one day.
--mike



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