As you can see the dyno is very upsetting
I have ordered the R4 software to tune the ss box. I am really hoping that will help. The only mods I have done are the Crawford plenum and tanabe exhaust. Any suggestions ?

 

The problem is that you are running incredibly rich. Wideband doesn't measure accurately much below 10.5, so chance are you are running even richer! This is the worst Vortech out of the box tuning I have ever witnessed. To be honest, I'm surprised your car is even running at all without bogging...this is super duper rich. have someone tune the R4 box to 12.5-11.5 and you'll be near 350whp.

 

you have the craw plen and tanabe exhaust only??

or is this (cant be!) WITH an installed and functional vortech blower??

either there's serious pulley slippage of some sort, or something has failed bigtime (my guess only)

more details needed!!

i am getting the vortech kit, and was under the impression that it would net at the very least 300 RWHP (sae) straight out of the box, un-finetuned...

now im beginning to worry.......

 

I only have the Crawford plenum and tanabe exhuast, honestly.
Trust me, I was very bothered when I saw this.

 

Well, as you very likely know... Your A/F ratio is way too low. It is great at 3500 rpms but above that it sux. If it were me I would use the R4 software to try to get that line that goes from 3000 to 3500 to stay right at 12.0 up to 5500 rpm and then drop gradually from there to 11.5 at 6500 rpms. You'll do this by decreasing the amount of fuel in map A.

The stock programming of the SS box includes timing retard, but you'll want to look at that (ie. map B). IMO, you should be taking out 5-6 degrees from 6000 rpms to redline (your SS may already be set to that but I don't recall off the top of my head). What you do below that is the subject of some debate.

Also, when you use the R4 software... After connecting to the SS box and loading your maps into a new "customer file" be sure to click Options | System Settings and then click Vacuum/Pressure from the System Settings dialog box. That way you'll see a map that includes both vacuum and boost. After you load the data from the ECU, exit the program and make a copy of the MDB file so you can always get back to the starting point if something goes wrong.

You'll probably set the all unboosted cells (i.e. the cells in the negative boost range on the left half of the fuel map) to the same value. Then in the range from 1.0 psi to 9.0 psi you'll want to set each individual value based on what you see on the dyno. In your case, it's pretty obvious that you need to decrease the numbers on your fuel map from 4000 to 6500. You'll likely end up with something that looks similar to this (although your own numbers will obviously need to be different):



Please note that the numbers you see ARE NOT A/F ratio numbers. They are numbers that represent the amount of extra fuel added at various boost levels. Also, please note that in the screenshot above I've scrolled over to the boosted area of the vacuum/boost map since the cells in the vacuum section on my map are all set to 10.2 (that's the number I chose so that I idle at 14.7 as my A/F ratio).

As my sample graph shows, you actually add progressivly less and less fuel at the higher RPMs. There are areas of the map that your car will never get to. Clearly, your car won't ever be in the cell that represents 8psi at 2000 rpm. In other words, there are entire large areas of the graph that you can just set to 11 (but mine goes to 11!!!) or whatever so that you can immediately see visually that those values are outside of the real range.

Another thing you'll notice that I have done for simplicity is set the fuel value at a particular RPM to the same number regardless of boost. Again, that's mostly because most of the cells on the map won't be "touched" during driving because boost is based on RPMs. Thus, at 4000 rpms I set the fuel amount to 11.3 for the entire plausible boosted range, 4500 = 10.9, 5000 = 10.6, etc. At upper RPMs (i.e. 6000+) I made sure to fill in the value all the way up to 9psi just in case I seem more than 8psi boost.

Obviously, you cannot just use my numbers--you need to determine the numbers to use on your own car so that the A/F graph goes from 12.0 at 3500 rpm to around 11.5 at 6500 rpms.

Hopefully I've provided good info for the tweakers out there, but if any of this doesn't make sense, feel free to PM me and I'll be happy to give you my cell phone number. Trust me when I say this... you can do this yourself if you are willing to pay for dyno time and make only minor adjustments between runs to the values. If I can do it, anyone can.

--Steve

 

zimbo,
I greatly appreciate your help!!

 

Could belt slippage have anything to do with this at all??

 

I doubt it is belt slippage or else you'd hear a terrible belt squell. Do you have someone that can tune this for you? It's just tuning, or so sort of careless error in the programming. Even untuned and out-of-the-box...your dyno chart and AF should not look like this.

 

Belt slippage would probably not cause the problem, because that would drop boost and you would be running closer to stock (unless the vacuum settings in the Vortech R4 profiles are waaaaayyyyy rich).

Where does the Split Second Box sense the boost? If you had a leak in the intake between the Splitsecond boost sensor and the engine then perhaps you could see something similar, although that doesn't make too much sense since the HP picks back up upper RPM ranges.

It does really look like the car is just way out of tune.

-D'oh!

 

hmmm...........something is fuc*ed with the SS Box...........A/F ratios are most likely the culprit.........it does run like sh*t right when the A/F go below 10:1..........wow, I'd be *****d.........do you have a 350Z?.........if you do I could sent you my Vortech Map as it came from Vortech........see attached un-tuned dyno of my car..........

 

A/F from un-tuned Vortech map

5,000 rpm is when my car starts to pull the timing back as you can see every 500rpm..........yours makes no sense.

 

seems like the ss box is really out of wack! i was there when you dyno your car looks cleen!

 

Ok, if you suspect that something is wrong with the SS box or the Vortech install then the two questions are:

(1) How does the car behave at idle and/or driving around town when not under boost?

(2) What does the R4 software say while the car is running on the dyno? Here's what you do... You connect the R4 software to your SS box and then you watch the fuel map (map A) while you the car is being dynoed. The active cell (that is, the live reading of RPMs versus boost) will be highlighted in real time. If the SS box is operating correctly and if the serpentine belt is correctly tensioned you should see the active cell move from 1 psi at 2500 rpm or so up to 8+ psi at 6500 rpm.

--Steve

 

During idle its doing just fine. No problems at all, even while driving around. I should be getting my software in tommorrow, and hopefully things will look better

 

Thank you.

 

I agree with what has been said above. I'd address the A/F first. From there, you should be able to more cleanly address the timing issues, which is what is likely causing the big dip in the middle of your dyno graph.

The only other thing I can think may be a problem is if the Split Second box was wired wrong... which based on what I've seen and heard is not that difficult to mess up. It's real tight in there and several wires are the same color (just in different positions).

I'd say start with A/F, do some minor timing adjustments, then if those don't straighten out your graph, double check your SS box connections.

 

I was wondering how can the A/F be ajusted by the split second box when its not linked to the fmu or is it? Just a thought.

 

do you have a 350Z or G?

 

350Z

 

I just finish checking all the wires on the SS box, and they are hooked up correctly. The vacuum hoses are also hooked up correctly. Honestly, that is probably one f***** up split second box that Vortech decided to put with my supercharger kit!!!