what one would be better for daily driven. i want to go turbo but iam thinking it will cause more probles down the road. i love going to 5k rpm a few times a day in 1,2 gear. any input will help.

 

My vote is turbo, but you have more to consider. You live in Socal, so you get to deal with all the carb BS.

If you like going to 5K rpms, try actually taking it to 6600 once, then get a ecu flash and then up to 7100 rpms. Heck, the motor doesn't even get pumping till 5500.

 

wont it be bad if i do take to 6600 a few times a day.

 

Are you kidding??? No it will not hurt a thing at all. The Z motor is made to take to redline, doing so will hurt absolutely nothing (except your gasmilage ). Honestly, if you have not even taken the car to redline once why are you even considering trying to make more power?

 

ya, i had questions about taking it too the line with increased engine wear....any more input?

 

i take my **** to 6600 all the time! Granted i just bought a used one 4 days ago so im still in driving itch mode. Gas mileage=14m a gallon! whatever, company gas cards are awesome!

 

Come up with a realistic goal (hp-wise) before you make your decision. Anything over 290 or so to the wheels, and it'll be cheaper to go with some sort of FI setup. Also, set a price range you are comfortable with spending before you start out.

Your answer really depends on what your goals are.

 

it's a sports car......it was made to go to redline

 

this is the thing.....there needs to be a sticky about all the different options and their realistic long term costs. sure a FI kit costs $4000-7000, but then you gotta get engine manegment, fuel manegment, and most importantly TUNING is a huge cost to get it right. your looking at well over $10,000 for that. and even then i guarantee your motor will have something go wrong. so shell out another $2-3k to fix it.

for that $ i could build an NA beast with around 300whp, redline at 7100, and still have $5000 sitting around and never have my engine blow up on 6psi

also why do you want more power? is it for autoX or road racing? dont go FI cuz its too hard on the engine. if you want to street race or drag then go FI.

just my thought

 

And in most cases you have to upgrade brakes which isnt cheap either!

 

Sometimes you need to take it to redline to blow out some carbon build up. So I would say that is optimum. 6600 a couple times a day.

 

$10000 for tuning? **** i never knew the dollar appreciated so much. No really...10k for tuning/eng management? I don't think so.

 

He is talking about everything together.

 

"engine manegment, fuel manegment, and most importantly TUNING is a huge cost to get it right. your looking at well over $10,000 for that."

 

I think it all comes down to how much money you wanna spend. A good reliable turbo setup will run you about $25,000. This includes the kit, con rods, rod bolts, pistons, fuel system, preventive mods (oil cooler, pan, radiator, etc), and the INSANE installation and tuning costs. When you think about the fact that a good mechanic charges anywhere from $75-$100 an our in labor you realize how badly you get boned. :/ I really dont think the VQ35DE was made for boost, the motor needs to be built, this is where the cost factor comes in. But, once you are there you have an amazingly powerful car to drive and push to the limits without worries. My models were Sharif and that guy with the alien autopsy as his avatar (haha sorry I forgot the name). :P

NA shows its true allure in the fact that everything can be done little by little. With a turbo car you would have to do big blocks of stuff at once. With a NA car you have the ability to pick and choose parts and put them on individually, feeling the gains gradually as you go. I think the biggest "gains" would be felt by reducing rotating mass so you can do lightweight wheels (of the same diameter, dont go larger), flywheel, pulleys and feel a vast improvement. My plan is to finish out all my breathing mods then go with a tomei 268 setup. 300-325rwhp is reasonable enough for a daily driver and weekend track car, weight reduction would be my next step.

 

Can you please show me a link where someone is getting 325rwhp from their N/A VQ. In fact, I don't recall 300rwhp, except for one and many on line felt the dyno pull was not accurate. It seems that most N/A's are pulling in the 280's at best with most in the 250-270 range. I am not trying to be arguementative, it is just I dont recall those numbers being pulled. Please prove me wrong. It would be wonderful if all of us were pulling 325rwhp.

 

I believe crawford pulled off a 300rwhp dyno pull with its package and JWT cams. There was a thread awhile back called NA Chart or NA Biggest Gains or something where they were compiling a list of all the best (HP Wise) NA Zs. Many with either really close or over 300rwhp so I dont think it's impossible. Of course i dont think you could pull it off very easily with a daily driver cam like the JWT or NISMO (280-285 seems more the norm with these) but with a Tomei 268 and a good tune I'm sure you could easily net over 300rwp. A board member just got a set delivered and will install them shortly so we can just wait and see. Of course the more aggressive the cam the more stuff you need to buy to keep your VQ happy so... more money.

 

I checked a few past threads and found mjedens and someone at crawford both hit a little over 300rwhp. The Crawford gentlemen hit it on a Mustang Dyno while I dont have too much info on Mjedens (sp?). I guess its a little harder than I thought! I'll haveta bug the guys at Tomei for a beefier cam.

 

I thought the only guy that hit over 300rwhp was using high compression pistons and I believe he hit somewhere around 305-310rwhp.

 

You guys are proving my point. 300rwhp seems about tops thus when he stated the 325rwhp seems a little premature at this time.