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Nismo Headers+Crawford HFC+TS ECU Reflash+KJR Crank Pulley+19" Wheels = +7whp

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Old 06-14-2006, 09:02 AM
  #21  
mario23
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I had the same problem when I had a Technosquare reflash. I don't think that can be done without a tune. My a/f was way too high. That's probably where your losing hp. I know when I went back to stock ecu, my a/f came down and hp went back up.

My switch from 17s to 19s didn't affect my dyno numbers though.
Old 06-14-2006, 09:41 AM
  #22  
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You're running lean my friend. Get a piggyback esp since you have headers and cats now.

My A/F's are at 12.8 = 252whp/236tq

That's only with popcharger, 1/4 spacer, headers, heavy-azz 19inch ADR's and unichip w/dyno tune

Baseline was 227whp/221tq
Old 06-14-2006, 10:35 AM
  #23  
Alberto
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Your so lean that on hot days the ecu is likely pulling timing making your car about as fast as stock. Send the ECU back to whoever tuned it with your dyno and A/F. Once around 13:1 you'll make better power-Id say close to 10whp more I gained 9whp 12ft/lbs from a mail in tune when I ran that lean NA.
Old 06-14-2006, 11:33 AM
  #24  
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Hey gsazabi

Like everyone else on here has said, you are running to lean to be making good power with the mods you have on your car. Need to get your A/F down. Best results on my car with my mods have been a A/F between 13 and 12.5. You have come this far, might aswell buy a Utec or some other sort of engine tuneing device. Or have a shop tune it on a dyno.

Reflashes can work, but if you change more things then you have to reflash again and again

You know once you start modding, you just cant stop

Dont be discouraged. There is some power hiding in that engine, just need a good tune to bring it out.

Later
Aceman
Old 06-14-2006, 11:38 AM
  #25  
ISMSOLUTIONS
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The car is designed to adjust to 14.5 for mileage. Once you tune - you need to aim for the 12.5 to 13 range and keep it flat at the at spec from 2000 and up. The best you'll get for NA tune on that AF adjust is up to 18HP...and it's worth it.

Mail in flashes are not going to get you there either. You really need to get a piggy back to get the car in scope on the dyno properly. Apexi AFC2 is the most affordable and easiest NA solution for this. The TS flash is needed for other enhancements as well.

Rick
Old 06-14-2006, 07:09 PM
  #26  
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If Im not mistaken, I believe this was not a mail in re-flash as it was done on site. Kevin, I think Alberto hit it on the nail. You are running too lean and the weather has been ridiculously hot here in Socal which is what might be causing your numbers. As well as the AFR, when I got my car flashed by Brian, he gave me a pretty aggressive map and set my AFR at 13.8 which is pretty lean as well but made a VERY noticable difference. Down side is when the weather is really hot, the car does feel slightly sluggish I must admit. After my flash I had my car dynoed at Church's and the AFR read something like 15.4(which I dont believe is accurate at all) so not all the dynos are entirely accurate or there are too many variables involved in the numbers. Always try to have your dynos consistant at the same location and days where its not too hot! BTW your shift **** should bein soon.
Old 06-14-2006, 11:11 PM
  #27  
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Thanks for all your comments and inputs.
I really appreciate it!

I talked to Tadashi today, and I'll be taking my car back to them tomorrow.
The thing is, I have this weird suspision that nothing will really change.
I have my car dynoed at the same location consistantly around the same time of the day, so I trust their numbers.
I'm just a bit paranoid that TS will just run the car and say that their A/F is right.
I'm gonna demand dyno tuning tomorrow!

I'm seriously thinking about getting piggyback, but I have no clue what it is/does.
I will search on this site, but if someone can explain it briefly i would appreciate it.
So far the one recommanded on the reply was Apexi AFC2..so I will look into that.
Old 06-14-2006, 11:17 PM
  #28  
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The Apexi S-AFC2 is the easiest bang for the buck for simple AF control. Greddy and UTEC are far more expensive, if that's all you want done. The Greddy EU will give you timing control as well.

If your not massively modded and going super crazy (mmmm, like me) or FI, the Apexi will do you very well.

Let me know if you need any help or have questions.

Rick
Old 06-14-2006, 11:26 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by ISMSOLUTIONS
The Apexi S-AFC2 is the easiest bang for the buck for simple AF control. Greddy and UTEC are far more expensive, if that's all you want done. The Greddy EU will give you timing control as well.

If your not massively modded and going super crazy (mmmm, like me) or FI, the Apexi will do you very well.

Let me know if you need any help or have questions.

Rick
Just done a quick search on the Apexi, and it's going for around $300 on internet vendors and around $220 on ebay.
Do I have to get it professionally installed? Also, can I adjust the A/F myself with the device?
I would like to get UTEC, but it's just too pricy for me.
Old 06-14-2006, 11:29 PM
  #30  
ISMSOLUTIONS
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Originally Posted by gsazabi
Just done a quick search on the Apexi, and it's going for around $300 on internet vendors and around $220 on ebay.
Do I have to get it professionally installed? Also, can I adjust the A/F myself with the device?
I would like to get UTEC, but it's just too pricy for me.
You don't need the UTEC - not for a basic NA setup.

I sent you a PM - we should chat and meet up...

Rick
Old 06-15-2006, 12:26 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by ISMSOLUTIONS
You don't need the UTEC - not for a basic NA setup.

I sent you a PM - we should chat and meet up...

Rick
Got your PM. I will give you a call tomorrow.
Old 06-15-2006, 12:28 AM
  #32  
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Update coming tomorrow

Last edited by gsazabi; 06-16-2006 at 10:59 PM.
Old 06-15-2006, 01:01 PM
  #33  
gsazabi
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*UPDATE*

I just had TS retune my car.
Interesting thing is that when we dynoed the car the A/F wasn't as bad at 13.8 being highest.
The A/F was mid 13s up till 4K RPM, and was in high 13's all the way to the redline.
It was quite a bit of contrast compared to my 14.5+ A/F on dynojet.
I had the car retuned so that now it runs 13 flat across the rev range.

Tadashi insisted that my Dynojet A/F ratio was wrong.
He also thinks that tuning the car on the dyno is the worst idea.

At this point, it's still hard to believe which dyno's A/F is the correct one.

Car does seem to be a bit lively somewhat, since I'm getting more fuel anyway.

I might still look into piggy back.
Old 06-16-2006, 10:54 PM
  #34  
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Looking at the dyno graph at TS, I just realized that
when my A/F was set to 13 flat, whp was a bit less than the condition before.
Logically speaking, wouldn't it supposed to make more power than when it
was running a bit leaner?
It's only a difference of a few hp, but I thought it would at least gain a few instead.

Also, if I was running lean before, why was my exhaust tip so black?
After tuning it to 13 flat from TS, the tip is even more black since I'm getting more fuel than before.

I'm so confused right now, and I don't know who to trust.
I'm not even sure if my A/F is really correct at 13.

I was seriously considering Apexi AFC2, but I've read that the ECU takes over the device after a while, going back to previous condition.

Is piggy back still the best way for me?

Sorry I couldn't provide the dyno pics. I don't have my cam rite now.

Last edited by gsazabi; 06-16-2006 at 10:58 PM.
Old 06-17-2006, 07:41 AM
  #35  
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I Too Have This Problem. After Installing Headers,hf Cats,intake,spacer,exhuast,pulleys.my Z Ran Excellent.knowing I Was Running Lean,i Got The Ts Reflash.now It Feels Kinda Weird.lost Performance Perhaps? Throttle Response Not There Anymore,and Black Exhuast Tips.going Back To Ts In Next Month And Return Back To Stock Except;rev Limiter,speed Limiter,a/f 13.1
Old 06-17-2006, 08:10 AM
  #36  
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Your best performance on these cars is going to be when they are pretty much flat in the 12.5 to 13 range.

You will get black tips - the car is richer - where it should be for performance. BUT here's where the map should be - likely you are getting too rich of a condition at low RPMS.

Below 2000 RPM - you want the map to be set at 14.5 or 15 - normal lean state.

From 2000 - 5800 - set to 13
From 5800 to redline - set to 12.5

These are optimal settings - with full exhaust and intake mods. If your not fully modded - you wont run right.

Rick
Old 06-17-2006, 08:44 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by ISMSOLUTIONS
Your best performance on these cars is going to be when they are pretty much flat in the 12.5 to 13 range.

You will get black tips - the car is richer - where it should be for performance. BUT here's where the map should be - likely you are getting too rich of a condition at low RPMS.

Below 2000 RPM - you want the map to be set at 14.5 or 15 - normal lean state.

From 2000 - 5800 - set to 13
From 5800 to redline - set to 12.5

These are optimal settings - with full exhaust and intake mods. If your not fully modded - you wont run right.

Rick
Rick,
Thanks for all your comments.
Still haven't had a chance to call you and try to arrage a meetup.
I've been busy working and I won't get off till next tuesday.
I'll probably stop by your shop since it's like 5 blocks away.

TS 'supposedly' retuned my A/F at 13 flat across the revrange.
But I can't be so sure..I'm trying to find a different dyno place other than LAPD(preferrably Dynojet facility)
Old 06-17-2006, 09:02 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by gsazabi
Rick,
Thanks for all your comments.
Still haven't had a chance to call you and try to arrage a meetup.
I've been busy working and I won't get off till next tuesday.
I'll probably stop by your shop since it's like 5 blocks away.

TS 'supposedly' retuned my A/F at 13 flat across the revrange.
But I can't be so sure..I'm trying to find a different dyno place other than LAPD(preferrably Dynojet facility)
Goto Extreme Automotive - Woodland Hills - Talk to Sean - Tell him we sent you.

Rick
Old 06-17-2006, 02:00 PM
  #39  
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Tadashi did tell me that you do get a bit more power being a little lean, but being too lean was too dangerous he told me. He re-tuned my car to be about 13 across the board too. Although it's at 13, i think it feels pretty good. Don't feel any loss of power.
Old 06-17-2006, 04:08 PM
  #40  
gsazabi
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Originally Posted by islandsnow
Tadashi did tell me that you do get a bit more power being a little lean, but being too lean was too dangerous he told me. He re-tuned my car to be about 13 across the board too. Although it's at 13, i think it feels pretty good. Don't feel any loss of power.
islandsnow,

I've seen your dyno chart when I was at TS

Did he street tune it to 13on the street, or on the dyno? did you just get it retuned again?
You were actually running lean on their dyno (your dyno from 6/13/06)
But you were making way more power than me tho.
My best pull on their dyno was around 210whp; your car was at 240whp
We have pretty similar mods, I don't think Nismo Camshafts will give u additional 30whp.

Tadashi kept on saying tuning it on the street is better than tuning on dyno, and it will show different result.
Mine was retuned to 13 flat on their dyno, but i'm still have a bit of doubt.


Quick Reply: Nismo Headers+Crawford HFC+TS ECU Reflash+KJR Crank Pulley+19" Wheels = +7whp



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