Before anyone delete this or say something, I did the search! None of the part numbers are matching with a webpage or part. I'm trying to find people with simulators that HAVE already install them on their cars. Like me, others have tried the non-fueler or any other method (like weapon R) and still have the little yellow light.

Could anyone running with simulators shear some experience installing them and/or problem using them?

Thank you,

 

Use more non foulers. I used 2 on each side and had no problems. If you do use 3 or 4 of them stacked.

 

I would stack the foulers like rocks said.

The simulators are becoming hard to find now. I do have them on my car. Installing them is not hard at all. Just have to splice some wiring. Heat shrink it and wrap it up good but neat.

I have not had one problem with them yet. In which I shouldn't since I paid $100 bucks for them. I like them for they have the little LED light on them that blinks to show they still work. If you find some and need help hooking them up. Let me know. I have a wiring schematic laying around here somewhere.

 

Also looking for an O2 Simulator solution.

 

I found some universal ones, but doing my search one of the guys in the forum said not to go with "Casper" brand or something like that. I have found 3 so far, problem is that I don't know which one to buy. There is even one that says you only need one of their units for two O2 sensors.

+1 do not stack them, I don't believe that's the solution. I broke 3 stes of TPs by doing so.

What brand are you using?

 

i had o2 simulators (2 pairs) on my V6 altima when i ran test pipes and headers and never any problems. get an advanced technician to install them b/c you will have to splice into wiring.

 

No problem with splicing, post some part numbers or brand, por favor!

 

Could you just buy the Nissan O2 sensor plug, and solder to that?

 

I already repair one of the O2 sensor. The cable is like any cable, I just want a serius member to post the brand-setup that he is using for the simulators. I don't mind trying it out, right now I have my oem cats back on, but you can feel the huge amount of power that I am loosing, no light though!

 

That's right don't use the Casper brand. Per crap. I have the O2 simulators, that I got from Summit Racing. But they don't carry them no more due to "who ever". All I can tell you is you will need two of them. I spent around $98 bucks for both. So far as brand, try to find the O2 simulators. There a black rectangle, rubber molding, four wires, and an red LED light in the corner of it.

But like said before. If you can't find, just double stack the foulers. It should work also.

 

Vizage:

You said that you have a diagram on how to inatall them, do you know what cable is each one, meaning, 12+, ground, heater, etc?

I think I found a brand that I'm going to try out, from the search I did on them, there is no complains.

Thanks,

 

The diagram I have is for the wires on the O2 sensor to the first wire harness it goes to. Between the two is where you would splice. So far as the wires on the device your going to purchase, it should come with a schmatic of what wires are which.

Bank one: (driver side) The wires under the car for the O2 sensor are R/B for your 12V, B/Y for ground, P/B for your heater, and the last one is OR for signal return.

Bank two: R/B for 12v, B/Y for ground, P/L for heater, and L/B for signal return.

There should be a heat jacket around the four wires. Cut this off. I'm not going into detail of how I spliced them. But try to keep it neat. Splice, heat shrink, use electric tape to wrap them individual then as a hole group, and then I wrapped loom around that and wrap it again with electric tape. Two years, no problems.

If you have more question about this, I might just give you my number or you can PM me yours to discuss. If you can wait till Wednesday, I'll be under my car first thing in the morning and I'll double check my wires to see. For the first time it was a pain to figure out for the schmatic is a little different from the actual wiring under the car. Plus it's been two years. I just don't want to tell you the wrong thing.

 

sound good man, thanks for the help! I have the 350z manual, but I have never see the yellow cable the talk about. I'm also going to use the wednesday to have a better idea of what am getting into.

 

This is good info because I'm looking at running TP's myself.

 

This DIY thread might help...

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-diy/194001-test-pipe-ses-non-fouler-fix-pics.html

 

So far, I don't think there is a fix for the 05-07 Z's from what I have read...I think you will need a electronic o2 sim to make it work since the new sensors are wideband...The trick is finding a good company that has them and hooking them up correctly to make them work.

 

Riley07, that is what I'm trying to do. Let see if I found it, hopefully I won't lose to much money.

 

That's cool...I hope you can figure something out...I plan on running Ultimate racing RP's when they become available for the 07's

 

UPDATE: After getting under my car today. I need to change one thing I told you. Even though you make the splice between the sensor and the harness. The color configuration is for the wires on the other side of the harness that travels to the main harness through the engine bay.

All you have to do is find the color on one side and trace it through the harness. For example, say B/Y is in the bottom right corner, then when you look at it from the other side, it will be in the bottom left corner. I'm sure you get the point. I just wanted to laborite.

 

I don't think I said yellow cable. I might of. There's a blue wire with yellow strip.