Headers Install Pricing..
Originally Posted by SuperBlack350z
for 200 umm no. If you know the work that is involved,i think you would gladly pay 400-600 for install.
Header install is a pain in the ***.
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Originally Posted by TheBlackPearlZ
superblack i also love your sig...ever since you made it all sexy ive been wanting to hump your leg....(totally joking)
sure you are
Originally Posted by SuperBlack350z
sure you are when i get back from the sandbox ill install them for you for 300...
Paid $350 for mine, took them 8 hours to do the install. I think it was around $45 an hour for labor. Not too bad because i was there for the removal of the stock heat sheilds and headers, and wow is all i got to say. My money was well spent, becuase i couldn't have dreamed of doing it on jack stands in my garage.
im doing it now, i have taken both stock manifolds off, and have the passenger side manifold on. i am 6 hours into it on jack stands.
i cant get the drivers side header in without removing the steering shaft, and i was not able to remove it as of last night.
i gave up when i noticed that my headers and test pipes didnt have studs built in, so i would have to use all new bolts to connect cat back to test pipes, and test pipes to headers. all stores were closed so i just stopped last night.
its very hard to access some bolts, and you hands will get cut up big time.
i cant get the drivers side header in without removing the steering shaft, and i was not able to remove it as of last night.
i gave up when i noticed that my headers and test pipes didnt have studs built in, so i would have to use all new bolts to connect cat back to test pipes, and test pipes to headers. all stores were closed so i just stopped last night.
its very hard to access some bolts, and you hands will get cut up big time.
Originally Posted by track04
im doing it now, i have taken both stock manifolds off, and have the passenger side manifold on. i am 6 hours into it on jack stands.
i cant get the drivers side header in without removing the steering shaft, and i was not able to remove it as of last night.
i gave up when i noticed that my headers and test pipes didnt have studs built in, so i would have to use all new bolts to connect cat back to test pipes, and test pipes to headers. all stores were closed so i just stopped last night.
its very hard to access some bolts, and you hands will get cut up big time.
i cant get the drivers side header in without removing the steering shaft, and i was not able to remove it as of last night.
i gave up when i noticed that my headers and test pipes didnt have studs built in, so i would have to use all new bolts to connect cat back to test pipes, and test pipes to headers. all stores were closed so i just stopped last night.
its very hard to access some bolts, and you hands will get cut up big time.
Also, don't forget to heat wrap your fuel lines, power steering lines, AC line, and clutch line.
Last edited by gothchick; Dec 3, 2007 at 07:18 AM.
Originally Posted by gothchick
Try lossening the driver's side motor mount (17mm nut under the engine cross beam). Then use a crow bar to shift the engine slightly to the side. You'll need a friend to help. One person rocks the engine, the other slips the header in place.... It's a PITA~
Also, don't forget to heat wrap your fuel lines, power steering lines, AC line, and clutch line.
Also, don't forget to heat wrap your fuel lines, power steering lines, AC line, and clutch line.
i can try that.
i actually used your tutorial to do it, good info, thanks
I wish I could take credit for that tutorial. Lol. That was just something I found on a different site and thought it could help our community....
I recently had my headers installed at Perf Factory, & we did the engine rocking trick to get the driver's side header in... I guess disconnecting the steering column wouldn't hurt either, but we didn't have too on mine.
Ohhh, I did take some advice recently and bought a 30" 3/8 extention to easily get to the bolts that mate up the header to the cat. Works like a charm.
I recently had my headers installed at Perf Factory, & we did the engine rocking trick to get the driver's side header in... I guess disconnecting the steering column wouldn't hurt either, but we didn't have too on mine.
Ohhh, I did take some advice recently and bought a 30" 3/8 extention to easily get to the bolts that mate up the header to the cat. Works like a charm.
Last edited by gothchick; Dec 3, 2007 at 07:46 AM.
releasing the rear motor mounts are necessary for most header installs. if you can release them the engine will tilt back enough to reach the top bolts. I had a turbo shop do mine and they said it was worse than a header swap on a mustang. Some people remove the steering shaft instead of tilting the motor. Whatever is easiest for you i guess.


