Engine turning off after intake install!!!!
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Engine turning off after intake install!!!!
Hi Guys,
I installed my mishimoto intake last night, It sounds awesome and runs fine when idling or driving normally. When i say "driving normally" i mean shifting below 4000rpms.
However when i boot it on WOT from 1st to 2nd, the engine shuts down and the CEL comes up.
What could this be? I'm thinking MAF, but then why would it switch the engine down??
I tried resetting the ECU by disconnecting the negative terminal and stepping on the brake pedal, then i let it sit there for 20 minutes. I assume this is the correct procedure?
Please let me know what you think the problem is as i'm baffled!
Oh, the mods i have are 1/2" plenum spacer, fujitsubo exhaust and mishimoto inttake.
Thanks!
**UPDATE**
So i cleaned the MAF and reset the ECU again.
Now it only happens when i roll in neutral!! Whats the go with that??
There must be a reason for that!
**********************EDIT*********************************
I've been looking more closely into it, and it seems that when i am rolling in neutral when i am faster than 40km/h or 25mph, the RPMS drop to zero which is why the engine turns off.
What i need to know is..
What controls these rpms? Is it the throttle body??
I returned it to stock to try it out and everything is fine so it rules out any part malfunction.
Experts, need your help!
I installed my mishimoto intake last night, It sounds awesome and runs fine when idling or driving normally. When i say "driving normally" i mean shifting below 4000rpms.
However when i boot it on WOT from 1st to 2nd, the engine shuts down and the CEL comes up.
What could this be? I'm thinking MAF, but then why would it switch the engine down??
I tried resetting the ECU by disconnecting the negative terminal and stepping on the brake pedal, then i let it sit there for 20 minutes. I assume this is the correct procedure?
Please let me know what you think the problem is as i'm baffled!
Oh, the mods i have are 1/2" plenum spacer, fujitsubo exhaust and mishimoto inttake.
Thanks!
**UPDATE**
So i cleaned the MAF and reset the ECU again.
Now it only happens when i roll in neutral!! Whats the go with that??
There must be a reason for that!
**********************EDIT*********************************
I've been looking more closely into it, and it seems that when i am rolling in neutral when i am faster than 40km/h or 25mph, the RPMS drop to zero which is why the engine turns off.
What i need to know is..
What controls these rpms? Is it the throttle body??
I returned it to stock to try it out and everything is fine so it rules out any part malfunction.
Experts, need your help!
Last edited by _ink; 08-17-2008 at 05:29 PM.
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more info...
interestingly enough i can replicate this problem on 2 situations!
First is after i WOT it and then roll for about 5 seconds (in neutral) and the engine shuts off. The CEL, and red warning ! light comes on.
Secondly is if i am cruising and then rolling down a hill, i pop it into neutral and the same thing happens.
I'm thinking dirty/damaged MAF??
interestingly enough i can replicate this problem on 2 situations!
First is after i WOT it and then roll for about 5 seconds (in neutral) and the engine shuts off. The CEL, and red warning ! light comes on.
Secondly is if i am cruising and then rolling down a hill, i pop it into neutral and the same thing happens.
I'm thinking dirty/damaged MAF??
#5
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What code is the car throwing.
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Originally Posted by terrasmak
What code is the car throwing.
Pull the code, post it up and let us know and we'll try to help. In the meanwhile, avoid going WOT. If you're having fueling issues, inducing moderate to heavy loads can result in costly repairs.
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Not sure what code the car is throwing.. Getting the diagnostics isnt as readily available in Aus.
Anymore help would be great! Esp since JWT pop users are experiencing the same.
Anymore help would be great! Esp since JWT pop users are experiencing the same.
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I was gonna post this exact problem and fix when I had it in mine. You're car is going into limp mode. Same thing happened to me, when I installed my intakes (pop chargers)... JWT sent me a wrong tube making one of the MAF sensors being installed facing backwards. What I mean by this is that one of the sensors, the opening of it was facing towards the windshield and the other was facing towards the front bumper... they produced a wrong tube for it and I'm glad I cought it... Sent them an email with pix and they sent me a new one... problem was solved after I reset my ECU...
My is a 07 by the way...
My is a 07 by the way...
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thanks for the reply whoopazz.
I'm pretty sure the MAF opening is facing the right way as one side of the MAF tube has the bolts to secure it (which should be facing the front bumper) and the other side just slides into the rubber grommet into the intake tube correct?
I've attached a pic from a different forum member to show you what i'm talking about.
I'm pretty sure the MAF opening is facing the right way as one side of the MAF tube has the bolts to secure it (which should be facing the front bumper) and the other side just slides into the rubber grommet into the intake tube correct?
I've attached a pic from a different forum member to show you what i'm talking about.
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**UPDATE**
So i cleaned the MAF and reset the ECU again.
Now it only happens when i roll in neutral!! Whats the go with that??
There must be a reason for that!
So i cleaned the MAF and reset the ECU again.
Now it only happens when i roll in neutral!! Whats the go with that??
There must be a reason for that!
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Originally Posted by gothchick
It happens with teh Poop Charger too. I don't remember what the fix is/was...
funny, i never had that happen with my pop charger in the 5 years i have had it. must be a specific problem for these $300+ filter systems
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Well, the correct procedure/remedy for the pop charger "problems" for the DE engines was to reset the ECU the proper way (by using ignition and accelerator pedal) so that the ECU could learn from scratch and adjust as necessary. Or, you could've waited for the ECU to learn slowly the different and increased air consumption. You can find the correct procedures (again, for DE) here or on Technosquare's website.
Also, note that the brake pedal method doesn't do anything, except waste time, reset your radio settings, odometer, etc - just useless.
You can pull the code yourself, too. Find the appropriate Service Manual for the HRs. You should find it there. If not, you can, at the very least, try the method used for the DEs. The easiest place to look would be here via search or Technosquare's website. Or, you can try to find a local parts store (big franchise ones) and see if they can pull the code for you.
Good luck.
Also, note that the brake pedal method doesn't do anything, except waste time, reset your radio settings, odometer, etc - just useless.
You can pull the code yourself, too. Find the appropriate Service Manual for the HRs. You should find it there. If not, you can, at the very least, try the method used for the DEs. The easiest place to look would be here via search or Technosquare's website. Or, you can try to find a local parts store (big franchise ones) and see if they can pull the code for you.
Good luck.
Last edited by 3hree5ive0ero; 08-15-2008 at 03:00 AM.
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Originally Posted by 3hree5ive0ero
Well, the correct procedure/remedy for the pop charger "problems" for the DE engines was to reset the ECU the proper way (by using ignition and accelerator pedal) so that the ECU could learn from scratch and adjust as necessary. Or, you could've waited for the ECU to learn slowly the different and increased air consumption. You can find the correct procedures (again, for DE) here or on Technosquare's website.
Also, note that the brake pedal method doesn't do anything, except waste time, reset your radio settings, odometer, etc - just useless.
You can pull the code yourself, too. Find the appropriate Service Manual for the HRs. You should find it there. If not, you can, at the very least, try the method used for the DEs. The easiest place to look would be here via search or Technosquare's website. Or, you can try to find a local parts store (big franchise ones) and see if they can pull the code for you.
Good luck.
Also, note that the brake pedal method doesn't do anything, except waste time, reset your radio settings, odometer, etc - just useless.
You can pull the code yourself, too. Find the appropriate Service Manual for the HRs. You should find it there. If not, you can, at the very least, try the method used for the DEs. The easiest place to look would be here via search or Technosquare's website. Or, you can try to find a local parts store (big franchise ones) and see if they can pull the code for you.
Good luck.
I searched for "technosquare" and got alot of tuning and reflash topics.
Do you have a direct link to the step by step ECU reset?
Thanks!
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Originally Posted by _ink
Thanks alot for that! Seems i need to do a more comprehensive ECU reset!
I searched for "technosquare" and got alot of tuning and reflash topics.
Do you have a direct link to the step by step ECU reset?
Thanks!
I searched for "technosquare" and got alot of tuning and reflash topics.
Do you have a direct link to the step by step ECU reset?
Thanks!
Try this search, first hit: http://www.google.com/search?client=...utf-8&oe=utf-8
http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm
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Thanks for that pmohr!
I've been looking more closely into it, and it seems that when i am rolling in neutral when i am faster than 40km/h or 25mph, the RPMS drop to zero which is why the engine turns off.
What i need to know is..
What controls these rpms? Is it the throttle body??
I returned it to stock to try it out and everything is fine so it rules out any part malfunction.
Experts, need your help!
I've been looking more closely into it, and it seems that when i am rolling in neutral when i am faster than 40km/h or 25mph, the RPMS drop to zero which is why the engine turns off.
What i need to know is..
What controls these rpms? Is it the throttle body??
I returned it to stock to try it out and everything is fine so it rules out any part malfunction.
Experts, need your help!
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Originally Posted by _ink
Thanks for that pmohr!
I've been looking more closely into it, and it seems that when i am rolling in neutral when i am faster than 40km/h or 25mph, the RPMS drop to zero which is why the engine turns off.
What i need to know is..
What controls these rpms? Is it the throttle body??
I returned it to stock to try it out and everything is fine so it rules out any part malfunction.
Experts, need your help!
I've been looking more closely into it, and it seems that when i am rolling in neutral when i am faster than 40km/h or 25mph, the RPMS drop to zero which is why the engine turns off.
What i need to know is..
What controls these rpms? Is it the throttle body??
I returned it to stock to try it out and everything is fine so it rules out any part malfunction.
Experts, need your help!
You said you returned it to stock and it didn't die at all?