Removing most of the nuts and bolts was a breeze, but I have one nut left which is seized.

The last bolt is the one located on the top where the header and cat bolt together on the drivers side. It's the nut right behind the steering link. My co workers, one of which is a master mechanic, cannot for the life of us break it free. Long extensions multiple swivels and all. Even tried a wrench from the bottom. At this point it's slowly starting to strip, and we can't fit an angle grinder in the small space to chop the bolt off.

We've soaked the bolt in rost off etc. I guess my main question is what is the best method to get to that nut and around the steering link.

It's always the last bolt

Any help is appreciated.

 

For better access, you should PULL the steering rod out of the splined clamp..make sure you mark it so it lines back up in the same position, or the steering wheel will be cocked with wheels straight. Torch the bolt to help break it loose.

 

appreciate the reply. totally forgot the torching method. we were about to pull off the steering rod but decided to see if swivels can do the trick. i also didn't want to misalign the steering as stated, then have to buy a new clock spring potentially.

at any rate, ill update tomorrow.

 

sounds like a real master mechanic to me i did this when i was 17 with 2 of my friends in the drive way its not that hard we also used pb blaster and let it soak for a few hours resoaking every 30 mins

 

obviously the task is as straight forward as can be, but when a bolt does not break loose and is slowly stripping at a really difficult location to get to, it's a little tough. ill update after work though.

thanks again

 

try soaking it in pb blaster before you attempt anything, that thing is AMAZING!

 

^ will do!

but, has anyone been able to loosen it without partially removing the steering rod?

 

What he said.

You can disconnect the steering linkage to give you more room to work.

 

I've installed many of these and never had to remove the linkage.
Just use the PB blaster, a 3 foot long 1/2" extension, a 1/2" 14mm IMPACT socket and a breaker bar.

 

This is pretty much my exact approach to it, and we just did it last weekend. 3 foot long extension, 1/2, and go to town. We actually broke the bolt, it was far too seized after hours of pb blaster and a 1000 ftlb impact gun. Leverage works wonders, we put a very long piece of PVC pipe over the wrench and used that to crack it.

 

I don't recommend the impact guns though. They have a tendency to fracture or weaken bolts. Particularly if the bolt is known to be weak.... like what is seen on the catalytic converter.

The bolts become crystallized from continuous exposure to high heat and the impact gun puts on a lot of shock stress on them. This is why these bolts have a greater tendency to snap.

 

Just walk away...frustration ***** more things up

come back double check tools/placement...

then get good leverage then lefty loosey

Good Luck

 

I remember doing mine on my HR...was a *****. I removed airboxes on both sides and just got in there with long extension and some swivel sockets. I remember one side I just cut with the grinder too....you'll get it. Then just make sure you use some fresh bolts with anti-seize so you avoid the problem in the future.

 

Thanks for the advice. Its laughable, but I spent another 2 hours or so after work and got no where. Moved the steering shaft over and the bolt at that point was stripped due to mutiple people giving a go. Even got a torch at it for a few. Tomorrow, I will try the chizel that sucker off method, otherwise the only other way is to somehow fit a grinder in there.

as easy as this install was supposed to be, one bolt has stopped me in my tracks

 

Yikes. Thats a nightmare bolt.

 

these bolts are a PITA. I had to torch mine off!!

 

got the bolt off with an extraction socket finally. got the art pipes on for a good day. power difference is definitely noticeable, however i threw a check engine light today. luckily i still have my cobb accesport so i reset it. forgot to write down the code but ill see if it comes on again.

all in all thanks for the help and thank you Tony for being very interactive with your clients.

 

Gah, sorry i didn't see this earlier, Duckee

Tony's advice was bob-on, but i wouldn't recommend PB blaster to people with actual problematic nuts/bolts anymore.

I will add, that a 6 sided socket is a must, but i will also add that if you've already tried a bunch of things, then you need to use Kroil, it's far more effective than anything off the shelf round here.

If i'd seen this at the time, you could have borrowed the can and hopefully gotten it all removed.

Glad you have it sorted though.

 

You threw a CEL right after it was put on..? That might make me wonder and I probably wouldnt have cleared it right away. Maybe a broken sensor?

 

I have always had a CEL since I put my HFC's on. Reset it and it just comes back on after 50-60 miles.....