Borla Or DC Headers?
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From: South Central PA
i impulsively bought some borlas awhile back for $535 shipped, but i'm wonderin if u guys think i should sell them and go with some dc's? if so, ceramic or stainless?
I have the Borla headers and have been pleased with them. And yes, they do post a gain despite what you read from all the haters out there of Borla. However, there is one very important fix you must do before installation. For your own good, have the back side of the header flange tig welded so that the pipes don't crack loose and leak on you. If you don't, trust me, these things will crack and leak. I have my own tig welder so I just filled in the gap with stainless filler rod. Stainless tig's very nicely. If you don't have your own rig, go have a weldor do it for you before you put them on the car. Just make sure he securely clamps the flange down tight to a true flat surface before welding so that the flange does not warp on you. PM me if you have any more questions.
Originally posted by TheBigShow
i impulsively bought some borlas awhile back for $535 shipped, but i'm wonderin if u guys think i should sell them and go with some dc's? if so, ceramic or stainless?
i impulsively bought some borlas awhile back for $535 shipped, but i'm wonderin if u guys think i should sell them and go with some dc's? if so, ceramic or stainless?
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Originally posted by maserom
Go with DC. Equal quality to Stillen or Crawford. They have been making headers for over 20 years. Very very pleased with mine, nice upper range power increase.
Go with DC. Equal quality to Stillen or Crawford. They have been making headers for over 20 years. Very very pleased with mine, nice upper range power increase.
We didn't nick name those damn header Donkey Crap for anything.
I'd rather see you get the Borlas honestly.
CHEAP welds around the flages, EXTREME pre-mature rusting... YUCK!
How do you guys know there is any gain? The butt dyno is horribly innacurate. I remember testing DC headers on Hondas and actually losing power. Without dyno sheets it's just a popularity contest.
Why is there still doubt about the DC sport headers? Do a search guys and you'll see a few independant members and a sponsored vendor indicating 11-12hp gains from DC Sports header (one was bone stock). Frankly, it's no better/worse than the Stillens and possibly Nismos, just cheaper price.
Get stainless and you won't have to worry about rust.
Get stainless and you won't have to worry about rust.
The Stillen headers are manufactured by the same company that makes the Borlas. I know, everyone is going to start screaming that they are not, but they are. The Stillen's just have some metal cut away from the flange, maybe to make them look different? As for "modding" the headers and rust, the stainless does really well at resisting rust. As for reinforcing the Borlas, my recommendation was just that. I think you would be better off in the long run to reinforce them, but you don't have to do that. It is kind of like welding your entire exhaust system after you install it. You don't have to, but some people like to do it. Again, just my .02 worth. Take it or leave it......
yes they will rust in ceramic.....
show me some of the "stainless" headers in 5 years.....I almost guarantee most will have rust too. Just because its stainless steel does not mean it is any better are preventing rust than mild steel.
stock manifolds are cast iron...nothing rusts faster....
as for gauging gains, there are otehr factors at play...the cams you choose, your exhaust, etc all play a role in how well the headers do ion the Z or any other car fior that matter.
I posted detailed pics of the DC ones...are they inexpensive? Yes they are. Qualityu wise look no better nor worse than every other nit on themarket save for the JDm spec ones (NISMO JDM ones, Fujitsubo, Esprit), all of which are gorgeous, but none fit the US spec car.
Again guys there is no "best" - there is a best for YOUR application. Start looking into the specs of each,a nd learn how those specs either will matter or not matter to yur particular setup, and the right one will often stare you in the face.....
personally I am waiting till my new heads are done, and my cams selected before picking which headers to install. I will let my engine builder tell me what the header needs to look like (in terms of tube diameter, runner length, merge collector, etc), and I'll simply buy the one that comes the closest.
Adam
show me some of the "stainless" headers in 5 years.....I almost guarantee most will have rust too. Just because its stainless steel does not mean it is any better are preventing rust than mild steel.
stock manifolds are cast iron...nothing rusts faster....
as for gauging gains, there are otehr factors at play...the cams you choose, your exhaust, etc all play a role in how well the headers do ion the Z or any other car fior that matter.
I posted detailed pics of the DC ones...are they inexpensive? Yes they are. Qualityu wise look no better nor worse than every other nit on themarket save for the JDm spec ones (NISMO JDM ones, Fujitsubo, Esprit), all of which are gorgeous, but none fit the US spec car.
Again guys there is no "best" - there is a best for YOUR application. Start looking into the specs of each,a nd learn how those specs either will matter or not matter to yur particular setup, and the right one will often stare you in the face.....
personally I am waiting till my new heads are done, and my cams selected before picking which headers to install. I will let my engine builder tell me what the header needs to look like (in terms of tube diameter, runner length, merge collector, etc), and I'll simply buy the one that comes the closest.
Adam
I have DC headers and I like the look and you can feel the extra power. And you can't beat the price. Only $270 for the ceramic ones at summit Racing, and about $100 extra for stainless.
Summit does not even show the DC headers intheir system according to my rep......if they do, they are no where near that price though. Everyplace I know of sells them for the low-mid $400's for ceramic. Stainless are not even out yet.


