i repainted my car with Dupont and it matches pretty good .
i showed it to the guy works in MaaCo Auto Painting they said it's perfect .
nehow , i recommend Dupont .

 

[QUOTE=ADOOZIE]zpeed350:
can you explain to an ignorant Brit what is the lemon law. I'm guessing its similar to our trading standards : fit for purpose:

 

Front bumper had hundred of tiny chips few scars.just painted front bumper. order paint from paintscatch. test the paint first seem close, hard to tell spraying on test card. Anyway paint job came out great(spray can). Only it slightly darker shade. Now just wonder should i just live with or take it to paint shop and have it redone.i'll try put some pics tomarrow.

 

I have the pikes peak white (tri-coat) and luckily, in a way, someone backed into my bumper and cracked it. Got a new bumper and had the best shop in town do the work. We talked about the chipping issue and they knew exactly what the issue was... not enough flex additive. They color matched the pearl paint better than factory! With the white you can see a slight difference on the bumpers in certain light... but now it's dead nuts on. I've had the repaint now for over a year and not one chip. I have two little ones on the hood, though. So it's definitely the paint from the factory and it can definitely be done, or redone, properly.

 

I have a similar situation with the spider webbing. The front bumper is a non-issue because I also am getting the front bumper replaced. Anything out there for the rear bumper though???

 

I spoke to a number of body shops in the area and found a feasible answer to alligator cracking on the paint.

Our cars have a "hard" clear coat called NCLC which is a lot less flexible then the conventional clearcoat. The "alligator cracking" in question is where the body comes together around the head and tail lights. These are high stress points of the lexan plastic our bumpers are made from.

Nissan needed to compensate for the flexibility of Lexan plastic by mixing in flexing agents into the clear coat. These vehicles were some of the first that they sprayed with NCLC and it appears they didn't get the formula correct so the clearcoat doesn't flex properly with the bumper, and voila stress will crack the coating.

It is going to be extremely difficult for me to get my car fixed properly now, the autobody shops I went to said they weren't able to do this type of clear coat jobs.

See this Bulletin:
http://www.sikkens.net/%5Cstore%5C65...Oct%202002.pdf

 

I don't think it has anything to do with the clear coat although you are probably right that a NCLC car will be more difficult to repaint. I have a DB 2005 and just got some cracks around the tail light last month after 30,000 miles. The chart lists DB as conventional clear coat. The clear is still smooth, the cracks are in the paint.
I'm taking mine in as soon as I can get some time to do so. I don't like any of the options that anyone has been offered, especially if the repaint is done by Nissan. Why would I want the same paint put back on? I would want someone in town that knows what they are doing to repaint the bumper or the car but I know that Nissan doesn't just hand out money - they will want to do the warranty work themselves.
I also know that if I am denied help or take something else I won't be happy because the car will still need to be re-painted someday. I know it can be done right since I have had a hail damaged car repainted properly from end to end and I only had 1 or 2 pin head sized chips on the whole car after well over 150,000 miles after the paint job. It was abused daily too - never worried how close I followed anyone, etc, etc.
Since there was a recent reply I thought I would share. Will report back if I remember
The post was started for an '03, right? Anyone with more recent build dates having this problem besides me? Makes you wonder how well any other typical first year problems have been addressed.


11/2/06
Well a few months ago I showed my dealer the spider web crack by the tail light. First I went to their body shop. That guy said probably there was a burr on the bumper or some defect that got painted over. Cars have everything done on an assembly line, things go wrong sometimes, etc. he said. Sent me over to the service department. The manager said I probably would be covered under the corrosion warranty? It's been awhile now - something about 5 year warranty on the body. Anyway he said he would have to call his local rep. and get back to me. Never called so I called back once and he said that it probably wouldn't be covered. BS. I'm not pushing it right now becuase I will be happy if it just doesn't spread or get worse. The only reason I took it in is becuase I thought I only had 3yrs/36,000 miles for that problem. Wasn't looking forward to a repaint and the manager didn't want to "break the factory seal" either as he put it. Don't know what will come of it but I hardly ever have my car clean enough to see it daily.
I thought I understood from that paint chart on this thread that a DB has conventional clear coat but under my hood there is a sticker that warns I have HCC.
FWIW, here it is:

 

Yeah oem paint sucks, chips very easily.

 

yea, polyurethane paint.

 

i have this same issue on my right fender and am wondering what to do about it.. its has gotten to the point of chipping. sucks