Shortbus

funny thing my 03 Z was built in June of 03. One of the last 03s i guess?

So apart from the different latch for the nav. compartment, could i say i have a 04 (minus) 30days Z?

pulpz2

Yep. Mine was built 6-03 also. It arrived at the dealer the day I bought it, August 7. VIN ~20400

yobri

iTrader: (2)

Well Shortbus, pulpz2, do you guys have a clutch that has a high release engagement (sweet spot engages higher than normal, that is)?

NTRIGUE

JUL 04 TRACK Z

Way more play than my Type-R with ACT clutch. If you're complaining about 5 inches off floor the new WRX is like 8 inches (ridiculous)! I am concerned about this much freeplay in a sports car.

devildogg

I feel the need to chime in on this one. Now I have only been driving for 40 years, well actually 39. I learned many years ago that clutch freeplay is measured from the top. You should have approximately one inch of freeplay from the "TOP" before you feel the clutch plate begin to disengage.

So sit on the ground outside the car and push on the clutch pedal with your hand. You should have 1 inch "Freeplay". This is exactly the way it works in my Z. Hope this helps.

Regards!

joe blow

same here mine engages way off the floor and second is hard to hit right.not to mention 3rd gear grinds

NTRIGUE

Although 'freeplay' may have been used incorrectly; our concern is that the Z's clutch pedal has exceptionally long travel from engage to disengage.

During an upshift the driver would press the clutch pedal from 8 inches off the floorboard until it made contact with the floor. The driver would engage the next gear and release the clutch werein it is desirable to engage in under 3 inches of travel; in actuality engagement occurs almost 8 inches off the floor. My Integra Type-R engages and disengages virtually by rocking on your heel, say 2 inches off the floor.

pulpz2

It engages somewhere in the middle of the travel. It's not close to the floor but also does not engage within an inch from the top.

This clutch has longer travel/more tension than any other car I've ever driven. I don't think the take-up is a bad thing it just takes some getting used to. Personally, I'm used to it now and dont have much of a problem driving smoothly unless I'm not sittng squarely in the seat and have the proper foot/leg angle/leverage on the clutch.

devildogg

This drawing will help explain what I was trying to say in my earlier post:

yobri

iTrader: (2)

I don't think that what you are saying is disputable by anyone here on this thread, but it is the travel from bottom (floor) to top (full release) that seems odd.

Other sports cars (and economy cars) that I've driven require less travel from the floor to full clutch release... with the Z, I literally have to lift my leg as if I'm climbing stairs (rather than the accustomed slight lift). I've gotten used to it now, but when I drive other manuals, I can really distinguish the difference. My friend can also.

There might be a means of rectifying the high lift, but I want to research the procedure further before executing the change.

afr0puff

iTrader: (1)

Maybe you guys should try what the G35 people are doing?

http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthre...b=5&o=&fpart=1

AndyB

I agree. I want to understand this better so we can fix the right thing.

The adjustment described above will move the activation point up or down, but it will not (I think) change the pedal travel between fully engaged and fully disengaged.

I think some people on this thread want to raise/lower the point. I think other people (like me) want to shorten the travel, not just raise/lower it. These are two seperate adjustments.

In mechanical systems like this you can trade to get a shorter travel but the cost is a higher force.

The long travel in the Z is probably a compromise to meet some goal of "maximum pedal force". (ie small japanese women must be able to drive it)

The more beefy among us (myself included) would probably prefer a shorter throw with a high pedal force so we can just rock on our heel instead of lifting the whole leg. (To each his/her own.)

The most obvious way to accomplish this would be to lower the activation rod's connecting point on the pedal arm. However, there is no easy way to do that. (that I know of)

Does anyone have any ideas on how to reduce the travel?

AndyB

Interesting, they seem to be saying it lowers the pedal AND shortens the throw. That would be great if it was true. But looking at the diagram I suspect it simply lowers the pedal and makes them hit the floor sooner.

--- onward ---

The fork is attached to the pedal arm using a pin through a hole in the pedal arm. Looking at the diagram (see above post) it looks like there is another hole lower on the pedal arm. Is this an alternative position at which the fork can be installed? If so it may be there to do exactly what we want, lower the pedal AND shorten the throw.

I don't have my Z yet, can someone check this hole out and see if it would hold the fork?


EDIT: I just looked at another manual drawing. The second hole I saw in the picture is used for a switch. Oh well, back to the drawing board.

yobri

iTrader: (2)

That's what I'm waiting for (to investigate, per se). It was questioned whether or not this makes it so that the clutch does not fully disengage. I'm going to investigate my Z to see if this is true or not (when I have the time). Preferably, I would like to see if others on this board try it first, and then report any problems that may be applicable to this change.

neur0sis

iTrader: (3)

This looks like it might work for the problem that I am having! I am going to try it this weekend, and I'll let you guys know what I come up with...

NTRIGUE

I went ahead and followed G35 suit. It is all identical down there; although quite difficult to use pliers with deadrest pedal installed.

Driving impressions:

3.5 turns = Drives safely as tight as you can get it. We are talking the moment you take weight off the floorboard there is engagement. No foul odors no tranny noise.

2 turns = I am quite impressed. This is now a short shifter. It feels very 'sports car'.

I can't figure out why a TRACK model came from NISSAN with the clutch adjusted as long as it could be but it was. We are talking going from 1mm of the screw sticking through the nut to 10 mm!

Final note:

Your Z is adjusted lazily at the factory, get under there and turn it into an impressive ride. Don't be in denial don't bring it to the dealer. You can shift faster in about 10 minutes!

yobri

iTrader: (2)

From your indication of 'no foul odors' you meant indications of clutch burning right? You have a Track Z? If so, everything sounds good, might have some time to do this within the next couple of weekends.

Please keep us posted about the performance of your clutch. Much appreciated.

bucknaked

I've done this mod several weeks ago after the new clevis pin was installed. then it was engaging way too high. Now after i adjusted it its awsome!

AndyB

I noticed in the manual that asside from the fork adjustment (see above) there is an adjustable bump stop aove the pedal near the top. This seems to be tere to stop the pedal from coming to far up or to prevent it from rattling.

When you lower the fork/connector 2-3 turns does the pedal still hit this stop? Or will I need to lower this stop to?

(And if you lower the stop you might need to adjsut the switch to)

AndyB

NTRIGUE

The pedal comes into contact with two bump-stop/switches.

The first bump-stop closer to the firewall shows clutch is disengaged from flywheel (info cruise control needs to know) and the second (closer to driver) is to show clutch engagement and also uses a switch in the bump-stop for cruise control and more. The later switch will need to be adjusted according. You can actually here a 'click' when this switch is adjusted well. Simple 14mm needed to twist this bolt closer to the pedal.

I am very happy with this mod