Zazz93

iTrader: (2)

The Re-learn proceedure is a little pedal dance you do to get the Thottle-body and ECU on the same page after disconnecting or moving it. I've heard it help people with rough running engines problems as well. There are different steps for different resets but it wouldn't hurt to try the ones that apply to you.

ECU Resetting Procedures

Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
Operations Procedures
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

* Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning Procedure.

1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.


* Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.


* Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)

It's best to time with a watch/clock.
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

dleariousz

iTrader: (6)

hmm good info cause my car has been having some hesitation problems here recently!!! Thanks!!!

Jons159

i will give that a try. my car has been idling high and jumping around alittle bit like it doesnt no where to idle at.

AcidJake75

iTrader: (64)

Bringing this back from the dead.. I had the same issue. I cleaned out my throttle body & MAF.. Did the relearn procedure because I idled high after the cleaning. Still bogged down right about 3500 to 4000 rpm.

Changed the spark plugs - I needed it anyway..no change..

Cleaned MAF AGAIN - still the same thing...

Got a buddy to sell me his MAF sensor for 30 bucks and threw my old one away (did the swap during lunch - LOL)... no more issue.

At least for now... I will post more info after a good week or so and after a good auto-x event..

This is just in case anyone else thinks they have tried to clean everything under the hood and nothing is working. BTW MAF sensors arent too bad in price (just the sensors - no housing included)...I just got lucky I scored one cheap.

ChriZTT

iTrader: (16)

^ Good to know. Keep us posted. Thanks.

adittus

Just a suggestion. But for as easy as it is to do i would def. get your fuel pressure checked. I had this issue and when i checked my fp it was less than half of what it should be. Replaced the pump housing and it fixed everything. Not to mention my car felt like it had gained about 100 hp again. At least its a very easy way to eliminate one more possibility if nothing else.

Boba

iTrader: (21)

Subbed.

Keep us updated Jake, I'm having this issue too.

But i don't get how changing out a new MAF sensor solves the problem though.... Unless your old one was malfunctioning?

m808six

iTrader: (1)

""same... i notice this from time to time