I was driving my 05 Z the other day when i got a check engine light. I brought it in to nissan and they told me that it was a P1284 code which is the air/fuel sensor. They told me they could order me a new sensor for $180 and have everything installed for a total of $480. I've looked around in forums and they say that the air/fuel sensor code is P1274 (the P1284 doesn't exist in the list of codes i looked at). Maybe they made a mistake but anyhow I've already changed an A/F sensor on another car and it takes a total of about 20 mins. Is the sensor unbelievably hard to change on the 350z to rack up $300 of labour?!

Noob question: About 6 months ago I had a misfire code in the 4th cylinder. Nissan changed the coils from the 2nd to the 4th cylinder to see if that was the problem or wether or not it was something else. I haven't had any misfire codes since then. Would switching the coils and leaving them like that result in any lack of power or damage?

 

Is dealership screwing you over... I dont even have to read your post AKA YES.

Noob question: doubt it

 

On other forums my name is DannyZ and I, too, own an '05, heh go figure. Anyways, I don't see how they can justify $300 of labor for an o2 sensor, although the upstream ones sit just above the manifold flange, could be hard to get to w/o removing the cats.

As far as mixing and matching the coil packs, that doesn't make a difference in power or cause any damage, they're all the same.

 

Both P1284 and P1274 are A/F sensor related.

P1274 A/F SENSOR 1 (B1) Rich shift
P1284 A/F SENSOR 1 (B2)

(from https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...d-generic.html)

Different conditions on different sensors (there are two on each bank).

 

Thanks alot guys! I have a Nismo exhaust line, im gonna order the sensor myself, do i get an OEM one or one made for the nismo line?

 

Air-fuel mixture is determined by several components including heated oxygen sensor #1. It is installed above. Stubborn to remove when the exhaust manifold is OFF the car. Next to impossible to reach with the catalytic converter ON the car.

 

Thanks davidv. So I've decided not to attempt this myself and to bring it to a mechanic lol. How much you think a job like this will run me for?

 

First we have to make sure this IS the problem.

 

I didn't even read your thread beyond just the title and I can answer this one.


YES!! The dealership is always trying to screw you.

 

that's how they make they're paycheck, don't expect them not to do unnecessary charging - i'm surprised they didn't charge you for the diagnostic read, too...

 

what do you mean i have to make sure thats the problem? meaning the dealership might be ********ing me on the code? is it possible it might just be unplugged?

 

since the economy is $%&t right now bro, you have to turn to the people you trust, dealers arent them and hardly ever are...take your z to a local shop if you know one or any of your friends do and they would help you out a whole hell of a lot better then any dealer would

 

yeah thats what im gonna do. the only reason i brought it to nissan is cause i thought the problem would be repaired under warranty. but i've come to learn that warrantys are useless

 

 

unfortunately, most dealers have a 2-3 hour minimum charge on labor. And thats typically @ ~$100 US a hour.

Your best bet is to make GOOD friends with a service advisor. Slip him some money here and there, or find a bottle of liquor he may like. Take care of him, and he should take care of you. In the long run, it will pay off. Thats what one of my friends did, n now we all go to him for services we cant do ourselves. But of course, use your best judgement as to who you try to make friends with. From what ive learned over the years is, service advisors @ dealerships are corrupt and hustlers. So use that to your advantage. Whats wrong with hustling a hustler?

 

Did you fix the problem? I have the same issue. I thought it could be plugs b/c i'm also getting cyl 3 misfire. I'm swapping out the plugs since its easy and I need to do it anyway, and then swapping out the sensor if it is the problem.

 

Correct spelling: s-t-e-a-l-e-r-s-h-i-p. That should provide a clue, dude!

 

Yes they were, can, will, and still ripping you off!!!!

 

plumpzz, I didnt end up fixing the problem because my check engine light went off by itself. Weird, don't know if that's normal or what. But I'm thinking that since I don't have a stock exhaust the sensor might be leaking a bit and threw a code. As for the misfire, changing around the coil packs did it for me. Haven't had a problem since.

 

More than likely, you'd have never turned that sensor out with a wrench and bare hands. Whenever we do them, we always have to heat them up around the bung to get them to so much as turn a 1/4 turn, and even then you run the risk of screwing up the threads.