Urgent Help Needed! Cannot get rid of CEL for days
08-25-2009, 05:26 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Houston / Austin, Tx
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Urgent Help Needed! Cannot get rid of CEL for days
Hey everyone, so here's the predicament I'm in. I have a check engine light that I have not been able to get rid of since I put in my new clutch/friction plate for my flywheel. What essentially happened was that the CEL came on as I turned on the car in the shop. I just got the car two weeks ago and it has been in the shop since I bought it, so I wasn't too familiar with what had been done before me to the car. We figured it was just throwing some random codes so they manually reset the ECU using the pedal method and I was on my way.
It comes back on as soon as I leave the shop, but I can't do anything because I have to leave for a road trip so I make a 340 mile trek round trip. What ended up happenning a few times is that randomly as I was driving 3/8th's or so throttle doing 80, my VDC and Slip and CEL would all be on and anytime I gave the car more throttle than it was when steady it would jolt back. The engine RPMS wouldn't change, but it would feel like the car was being clutch kicked and I would not be able to to turn back on the traction control by pressing the button. Rather, I would pull over turn off the car for a few seconds and turn it back on until the problem disappeared
I've taken it back to the shop so they could figure out whats been going on and it originally ran the codes:
P0011 (Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1))
P0021 Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 2))
P0109 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Malfunction
P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0550 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction.
They tinkered with the car a little bit and reset the ECU and it was still running codes.
This time only 340 and 550. They did a little more tinkering reset the ECU and 340 and 550 popped back up after the CEL came on after driving 30 miles with it off. I changed the 340 sensor and the 550 sensor turned out to be disconnected, which they reconnected. Took it to get diagnosed again 340 and 550 are still there. They reset again, they disappear I pay for their services and I'm on my way.
Then 2 minutes after leaving the shop I get CEL comes back on. I go to get it diagnosed, P0340 and P0550 have disappeared, but P0011 and P0021 pop back up which were only present on the first diagnosis and disappeared on the 2nd-4th and now popped back up on the 5th.
Does anyone have any idea what is going on with my car? The jolting it does occasionally when VDC and slip slights both turn on is very worrysome. At this moment P0011 and P0021 are the only codes showing, but I am worried that trying to resolve those codes isn't going to resolve the issue because there is something electrical that is funky in my car. I'm not sure if there is actually a problem with the car or if its just throwing random codes which is causing me to throw money into a bottomless pit trying to figure out the issue. Any advice on how to resolve the issue would be much appreciated. Thanks
It comes back on as soon as I leave the shop, but I can't do anything because I have to leave for a road trip so I make a 340 mile trek round trip. What ended up happenning a few times is that randomly as I was driving 3/8th's or so throttle doing 80, my VDC and Slip and CEL would all be on and anytime I gave the car more throttle than it was when steady it would jolt back. The engine RPMS wouldn't change, but it would feel like the car was being clutch kicked and I would not be able to to turn back on the traction control by pressing the button. Rather, I would pull over turn off the car for a few seconds and turn it back on until the problem disappeared
I've taken it back to the shop so they could figure out whats been going on and it originally ran the codes:
P0011 (Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1))
P0021 Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 2))
P0109 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Malfunction
P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0550 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction.
They tinkered with the car a little bit and reset the ECU and it was still running codes.
This time only 340 and 550. They did a little more tinkering reset the ECU and 340 and 550 popped back up after the CEL came on after driving 30 miles with it off. I changed the 340 sensor and the 550 sensor turned out to be disconnected, which they reconnected. Took it to get diagnosed again 340 and 550 are still there. They reset again, they disappear I pay for their services and I'm on my way.
Then 2 minutes after leaving the shop I get CEL comes back on. I go to get it diagnosed, P0340 and P0550 have disappeared, but P0011 and P0021 pop back up which were only present on the first diagnosis and disappeared on the 2nd-4th and now popped back up on the 5th.
Does anyone have any idea what is going on with my car? The jolting it does occasionally when VDC and slip slights both turn on is very worrysome. At this moment P0011 and P0021 are the only codes showing, but I am worried that trying to resolve those codes isn't going to resolve the issue because there is something electrical that is funky in my car. I'm not sure if there is actually a problem with the car or if its just throwing random codes which is causing me to throw money into a bottomless pit trying to figure out the issue. Any advice on how to resolve the issue would be much appreciated. Thanks
Last edited by Kooshie; 08-25-2009 at 05:33 AM.
08-26-2009, 08:48 AM
#2
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Houston / Austin, Tx
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Called Nissan yesterday and they said that the recall is only applicable to certain 03 350z's and my vin wasn't under the one's that were covered.
Update: I ended up driving from Austin to Houston which is around a 160 mile trip. The good news is I didn't have the VDC and Slip lights come on once which would previously result in the car jolting back as if I were clutch kicking any time I gave it more throttle than when I held the pedal steady.
Like I said before I just have those intake valve timing control codes for bank 1 and 2 left to resolve, which should hopefully fix my issues. All of these CEL's came on only after I got the clutch job done which makes me think there might be a short or something electrical going on due to the motor possibly shifting a little when the transmission was dropped. After all the power steering pressure turned out to be disconnected.
I'm going back to Houston this weekend to fix the issue once and for all. Any advice on what I can tell the mechanics to do to resolve the issue or how to approach the problem? Also, for all my Houston area people, are there any honest mechanics who really know there stuff when it comes to Z's in the houston area I can take my car to if this doesn't work out. I really don't want to be charged an arm and a leg at the dealer. Thanks
Update: I ended up driving from Austin to Houston which is around a 160 mile trip. The good news is I didn't have the VDC and Slip lights come on once which would previously result in the car jolting back as if I were clutch kicking any time I gave it more throttle than when I held the pedal steady.
Like I said before I just have those intake valve timing control codes for bank 1 and 2 left to resolve, which should hopefully fix my issues. All of these CEL's came on only after I got the clutch job done which makes me think there might be a short or something electrical going on due to the motor possibly shifting a little when the transmission was dropped. After all the power steering pressure turned out to be disconnected.
I'm going back to Houston this weekend to fix the issue once and for all. Any advice on what I can tell the mechanics to do to resolve the issue or how to approach the problem? Also, for all my Houston area people, are there any honest mechanics who really know there stuff when it comes to Z's in the houston area I can take my car to if this doesn't work out. I really don't want to be charged an arm and a leg at the dealer. Thanks
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
