Blown Fuse HELP!
Blown Fuse HELP!
I plug both my Radar and my phone charger on each of the accesses. My 10 amp fuse keeps blowing after about a week of use.
I can't figure what's wrong and wanted to know if it would be ok to put a 15-20amp fuse instead of the 10 amps that's recommended?
Can't drive without my radar so I need help "FAST" if you know what I mean.
Ron T.
I can't figure what's wrong and wanted to know if it would be ok to put a 15-20amp fuse instead of the 10 amps that's recommended?
Can't drive without my radar so I need help "FAST" if you know what I mean.
Ron T.
stay with the same size fuse. I doubt the two items draw enough to overload the fuse. There must be an intermittent short somewhere.
Try just using one item and see if the fuse blows. Alternate plugs and see which is the culprit.
Also make sure the plugs are tight in the lighter socket, if they wiggle they may cause intermittent surges.
Try just using one item and see if the fuse blows. Alternate plugs and see which is the culprit.
Also make sure the plugs are tight in the lighter socket, if they wiggle they may cause intermittent surges.
I'm sure both of those items draw milliamps so to pop a 10 amp fuse there has to be a wiring or some other problem with the devices.
actualy fast blow fuses pop at 200 percent.. so a 40 amp fuse is meant to stay good until it spikes to 80 amps.
Weird how that works, but mine pops that fuse alot too when its used for my ph charger.. my thought is that it uses far more power than you think. If it gets warm like mine does, believe there is current being drawn there. I believe they are both ( fr and rear) on the same fuse as well.
To answer your question, NO, dont add a larger fuse.. just use one or the other man. How often do you charge your ph in your car really?! Makes me think you drive around lookin like these guys haha. jk:
Bring a wall charger to work.. charge it there.
Weird how that works, but mine pops that fuse alot too when its used for my ph charger.. my thought is that it uses far more power than you think. If it gets warm like mine does, believe there is current being drawn there. I believe they are both ( fr and rear) on the same fuse as well.
To answer your question, NO, dont add a larger fuse.. just use one or the other man. How often do you charge your ph in your car really?! Makes me think you drive around lookin like these guys haha. jk:
Bring a wall charger to work.. charge it there.
Last edited by bmccann101; May 27, 2011 at 09:05 AM.
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 4,293
Likes: 2
From: Spartanburg(SparkleCity), SC
Check the power rating of your charging devices to see how much power is needed. If it isn't that you have something shorting and it's that you need more power flowing than the current current limit (pun intended) -
1) Buy an inline fuse sufficient for the current load you need to run
2) Install the inline fuse off of the positive side of your battery
3) Run a power cable from the inline fuse to each of your 12V DC outlets and replace the existing positive sides with the new cable
If you aren't comfortable, any stereo shop can do it for you.
Even better, do like I did, and have them permanently wire the power and just leave you a strand with the fitting for your phone wherever you leave it sitting when you are driving. This way, you still have your 12V DC plugs for other things. I had them put a MicroUSB in my cubby at the top of the waterfall with 6-8 in of slack for my Galaxy tablet (Google Navigation FTW), an iPod connection at the ash/coin tray for my iPod Touch, another MicroUSB inside my console between the seats for my phone, and the connector for charging my jawbone headset inside the console as well. Buy a stealthcord for plugging your radar detector directly into your homelink rear view mirror, and you're done. That way there are no "stretchy" cords cluttering up the cabin.
1) Buy an inline fuse sufficient for the current load you need to run
2) Install the inline fuse off of the positive side of your battery
3) Run a power cable from the inline fuse to each of your 12V DC outlets and replace the existing positive sides with the new cable
If you aren't comfortable, any stereo shop can do it for you.
Even better, do like I did, and have them permanently wire the power and just leave you a strand with the fitting for your phone wherever you leave it sitting when you are driving. This way, you still have your 12V DC plugs for other things. I had them put a MicroUSB in my cubby at the top of the waterfall with 6-8 in of slack for my Galaxy tablet (Google Navigation FTW), an iPod connection at the ash/coin tray for my iPod Touch, another MicroUSB inside my console between the seats for my phone, and the connector for charging my jawbone headset inside the console as well. Buy a stealthcord for plugging your radar detector directly into your homelink rear view mirror, and you're done. That way there are no "stretchy" cords cluttering up the cabin.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: nyc
Check the power rating of your charging devices to see how much power is needed. If it isn't that you have something shorting and it's that you need more power flowing than the current current limit (pun intended) -
1) Buy an inline fuse sufficient for the current load you need to run
2) Install the inline fuse off of the positive side of your battery
3) Run a power cable from the inline fuse to each of your 12V DC outlets and replace the existing positive sides with the new cable
If you aren't comfortable, any stereo shop can do it for you.
Even better, do like I did, and have them permanently wire the power and just leave you a strand with the fitting for your phone wherever you leave it sitting when you are driving. This way, you still have your 12V DC plugs for other things. I had them put a MicroUSB in my cubby at the top of the waterfall with 6-8 in of slack for my Galaxy tablet (Google Navigation FTW), an iPod connection at the ash/coin tray for my iPod Touch, another MicroUSB inside my console between the seats for my phone, and the connector for charging my jawbone headset inside the console as well. Buy a stealthcord for plugging your radar detector directly into your homelink rear view mirror, and you're done. That way there are no "stretchy" cords cluttering up the cabin.
1) Buy an inline fuse sufficient for the current load you need to run
2) Install the inline fuse off of the positive side of your battery
3) Run a power cable from the inline fuse to each of your 12V DC outlets and replace the existing positive sides with the new cable
If you aren't comfortable, any stereo shop can do it for you.
Even better, do like I did, and have them permanently wire the power and just leave you a strand with the fitting for your phone wherever you leave it sitting when you are driving. This way, you still have your 12V DC plugs for other things. I had them put a MicroUSB in my cubby at the top of the waterfall with 6-8 in of slack for my Galaxy tablet (Google Navigation FTW), an iPod connection at the ash/coin tray for my iPod Touch, another MicroUSB inside my console between the seats for my phone, and the connector for charging my jawbone headset inside the console as well. Buy a stealthcord for plugging your radar detector directly into your homelink rear view mirror, and you're done. That way there are no "stretchy" cords cluttering up the cabin.
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