What I think lead to this issue....

3 weeks ago I had air trapped in my coolant lines... caused some over heating with the car... went through that for about 4 days until I found out that all I needed to do was top off my coolant levels and turn on my heater... so that issue was fixed....


3 days ago...



Why is my rPM gauge dropping all the way to ZERO even tho the car is still running and driving??


today...


The ignition will not turn over now. Car is not starting. Any ideas? Battery is completely fine. I'm assuming some type of sensor issue. Even if the car is COLD (not ran for over 24 hours) and I try to start it the radiator fan comes right on for no reason. Short in a wire somewhere?? over heating caused a sensor malfunction causing the fan to come on and ECU reading extremely high temp levels not allowing the car to turn over to protect the engine?



Must be sensor related. What else would cause RPm gauge to show ZERO rpm even when the car was still driving around?

why does the fan come on RIGHT WHEN the key is turned and the car wont start?




thanks in advance

 

video will be posted shortly

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PNALuC4MBE

 

very noticeable drops after 1:00

 

I have no freakin idea why your car is having startup issues,

But about the tach, sometimes my Z will go retarded on me and the tach will get stuck somewhere and stay there, whether im in neutral or in gear. Accelerate, decelerate, disengage clutch - no matter, it just sticks where it decided to stick. Then out of nowhere, like what your tach is doing, is will jump to where it really needs to be as if its saying "oops, my bad, I should be here, not there!". It's happened to me three times, in the last month and a half. All 3 days, it was hot outside.

Perhaps your tach issue is not related to your startup issues. I'd like an explanation on the tach malfunction myself.

 

the funny thing is, the tach issue only started when my start up issue came around so im pretty confident in thinking that they both are being effected by the same cause...

also when the car wouldnt want to start (normally after a long drive and the car heats up) I was only able to get the car to start by leaving the key out for a good 20 mins and actually turning the key PRIOR to pressing in the clutch (manual obviously) in order to get the car to start, so im not sure what kinna role that plays in the whole thing...

 

stress bump

 

bumper

 

UPDATES....

hopes this will help others
i do understand that NOT ALL cases will be the same but at least
this could be a start for you....




---found issue for crazy tach
the wire in the back of my gauge / tach was lose a bit so every time something moved it it would cause it to lose connection... so when the base would hit from my system, or when the door would slam it would re-connect and cause it to act normally haha

---solution
solder a solid hold...
-problem fixed 3+ weeks with no issues since


------Strange no start
the issue with the no start was because my immobilizer wire that was coming from the key area was fried (immobilizer is the unit that will stop the car from starting if the correct key with chip is not located)

------solution
since the wire was burned out we had to replace the entire wire from the key area to the ecu and that was a completely fixed issue...
-problem fixed 3+ weeks with no issues since