Maybe this is common knowledge that I just don't have....BUT.....how long to you guys cycle with the funnel??

I can tell once my T-stat opens.....but maybe five minutes after that coolants starts boiling/shooting all over hell.

I expect the expansion of the coolant but having a hard time finding right point to cycle as much air out as possible.

Thanks

 

Having this EXACT SAME issue right now!

 

not sure I have 100% fixed mine either...HATE this F'in coolant system.

I'm thinking the best you can do is alternate between

1) opening the bleeder valve towards the rear of the car

2) squeeze radiator hoses

3) turning the heater on high to get the coolant flowing through the heater core (I couldn't even tell what a heater core looks like )

4) park on a slight incline and fill the radiator SLOW AS *****!!!!!!

5) use the spill free leslie funnel

6) Rig up a larger coolant overflow container so that when the fluid expands (being hot) there is enough fluid so that the system doesn't inhale air as it cools.

I smell that sickeningly sweet antifreeze in my sleep.

 

I'm going to try that, one more time. If that doesn't work this thing is gonna be parked until I've got an LS motor to go in it......****'s ridiculous.

 

Lol..... Yea ***** that VQ you'll show it!!!

 

What is going on with the cooling system!!! WTF!?!?!?
I ve been at it all day now and i am about to lose my ****!!!
I tried it all!!! i think I went through maybe 10 jugs of water my parking lot is flooded, and I am pretty sure I dont have that much of antifreeze in the rad now and its freezing here overnight.

Okay so i tried the super funnel & uphill park with rad cap off & bleeder screw, but 2 min after thermostat opens theres a turbulant shitstorm of coolant shooting all over . When is it the best time to turn off the car and let it cool?
Some videos on youtube have the leslie funnel system and they run their cars for 10 minutes. This doesnt happen in my case. I tried running it for 10 minutes once and I had to stay 10 feet from my car so i dont get splashed, and that was just at idle.

I am at the end of the road with this. I even replaced the thermostat.
Any new ideas are much apriciated

 

Where is the coolant shooting out from? What all have you actually done so far?
I flushed my system two weeks ago, didn't really have any problems.

I didn't use the funnel trick or the uphill trick or any trick, I just followed the factory service manual.

Flushed the system 6-8 times until my flushes started clearing up. Filled with concentrate since my block was filled with distilled water already. Drove the car for 10 minutes around 3k rpm to ensure thermostat opened and system fully circulated. Let car cool down overnight. In the AM, opened bleeder cap at the back of engine, topped off radiator until coolant coming out of bleeder. Then topped off reservoir tank back up to max line.
FSM states that the driving, cooling, then topping off steps can take 3+ times. It took me 4 times (4 days) until my reservoir tank finally stopped dropping overnight.

 

That coolant shooting everywhere out of the Leslie funnel happened to me too a few times. Mine turned out to be a T stat. Did u use an OEM one?

I squeezed every damn hose at least a dozen times while slowly filling with coolant. If you notic there is a perfect place for an air pocket right underneath the t stat. I put on gloves and squeezed trying to get hot water up there to open t stat while car was warm and running.

My my impression was the water was boiling because it was NOT circulating passed the T stat and thru the radiator. Just a thought. Good luck

 

the violent bubbling could be air trying to escape. I think its a good thing if its starts bubbling like crazy because air bubbles/pockets are escaping..once it levels out you should be good. thats what i think tho

 

Thread revival as doing a search on google this thread came out on top and it did not help me at all. Below is what I did:

Open the radiator cap
Pour your ready mix or diluted coolant into the radiator spout until it comes up to the top
Replace cap
Remove bleed valve entirely
Using a funnel, SLOWLY, pour more coolant in here until it comes to the top, wait a few seconds and it will go back down, keep SLOWLY adding coolant until it barely goes back down or you want to move onto the next step to see if you're near enough.
Replace the bleeder valve cap (careful not to over tighten as its plastic)
Turn your AC temp all the way to hot
Turn your fan speed to max
Turn your AC off as its not used to create the heat
Now turn your car on with everything screwed back on and wait for your drivers side radiator to come on (when the car is hot)
Once the fan has come on, turn the car off
Undo the bleeder valve until you start to hear a hiss, SLOWLY turn it a tad more but do not remove it completly or hot coolant and vapour will **** out everywhere
Once hissing has stopped, undo the bleeder valve slowly until it comes off or more hissing is heard.
Pour more coolant into the bleeder valve
Replace cap
Start Car again
Give the car some revs and hold it at about 2000 RPM
Feel the temp coming out of the air vents, is it hot?
if it isnt, wait for the cooling fan to come back on, turn the car off, and open the bleeder valve to let more air out
If its hot, you're nearly finished, turn the car off, undo bleeder valve, if no hissing is heard, take it all the way off and top it up with more coolant to be safe.
undo the radiator cap, check if you can put more coolant in
gently squeeze the hose underneath the radiator cap to help any air bubble come to the surface (squeezing this tube will also push air/fluid out of the bleeder valve so watch that too)
Once everything is full, including the reservoir, put the caps back on, start the car one more time and feel the air coming out of the vents, if its hot it mean that the coolant has filled all the hoses and is reaching the mechanism which provides heat for the AC system.

The end, no where else did i find instructions as in depth as that, most places just say yea do this and it should pretty much work... not helpful and not step by step. Doing it as above required nothing more than a screwdriver and coolant, and only a basic funnel to pour coolant in.

Keywords search engine: coolant radiator bleed bleeding valve cap overheating solution

 

One thing I would add is prime the heater core cold until no more air bubbles. (With engine off). Rinse, repeat.

 

You rock! I am an obsessive researcher and I want to do a coolant flush on my used Z. So many videos and bad threads and I finally found your small, concise write up. Thanks!

 

I'm thinking the secret is to ignore the freaking advice to Jack up the front end. Air goes up in water, and raising the front end takes the bleeder valve out to position as the highest point

 

OK. I listened to all the fancy tricks from all of the idiots on youtube with the most views, like many of you guys did. I boiled my engine over 5 times right after rebuilding it myself! Lucky I didn't blow a headgasket! Here's what I learned, and should have reasoned for myself. That bleeder valve is at the highest point for a freaking reason! Air is supposed to come out of there, not the radiator cap. I bled my system 3 times in a row, on an incline (40 minute cool down periods). Then I drove it 3 miles and boiled the motor over again. Waited 20 minutes bled the system once more, on the flat, and drove the same route back home with the heater on full blast hitting 4.5k rpm twice. Heater never cooled down once, and the temp needle never got to the hallway mark once. Follow basic logic and help the damned air go up. I feel like an idiot for listening to these so-called experts without a critical ear. Follow the shop guide or fsm with no fancy tricks.
That funnel with the radiator cap is a good tool though. Also try to lightly tap the heater hose with your finger. You'll get air out you wouldn't have otherwise.

 

I have a 2004 G35 which has the same coolant setup and engine. This is in my opinion the best YouTube example out there and the one I use on my vehicle. It defiantly works and I too had the 'No Heat Problem' prior to this answer. If you have no heat, then you will indeed have air in the system. Simple as that. Most general shop mechanics do not know how this system works in order to get rid of the air pockets and all to often often the car owner finds themselves without heat come winter. After you raise the front end of your car higher than the rear end you start the procedure. Very important to raise that front end up so that the trapped air flows out at the radiator cap opening. The coolant air release cap that is at the back of the engine is required to rid the air completely out of the system. By following the advise given you will succeed in getting your heater to throw hot air. Guaranteed.

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