Crank Position Sensor probs?
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From: Port St. Lucie, FL
Crank Position Sensor probs?
This is a tri-purpose thread..
1. With the problems I've found as of late, I haven't really found one thread on any forum that gives all the answers to people experiencing this problem all in one thread to get me as far as I have come with the troubleshooting process. Lots of good info broken into tiny pieces on different threads out there. I hope to help someone coming across this find the answers they are looking for.
2. To find others input as I have taken all the proper steps in fixing this problem, as it still hasn't been resolved.
3. To pretty much rant a little that this isn't revolved.
The symptoms:
Car had starting issues over the past month or so. With the key turned all accessories would turn on, but the car would respond as if I wasn't engaging the clutch pedal at all. No starter turning over, no battery acting as if it were dying, nothing. After anywhere from two to twenty turns, the car would start as if there wasn't a problem present at all. I suspected a faulty clutch pedal switch, replaced it, problem was still present.
I checked out my battery after my interior dome lights stopped working one day. Found it to be extremely corroded, and at 90k, I was due for a new one anyways. Replaced it with a Duralast Gold battery and all problems subsided. The car started right up as if it were new, every time. This lasted for about three weeks or so, then the starting issues started again.
Same problem as before, multiple turns of the key before it starts. I'm driving to work one morning and go WOT at the center of the apex on the on ramp. At about 70mph the engine cuts out and back on. SLIP, TCS, and SES lights all come on at the same time. I limp it to work, and head to autozone to have it scanned directly after.
CAS. The POS scan tool they use can't determine which bank it is, so it's a gambling game for me. I started with Bank 2. This sensor is found on the back of the head closest to the driver side. Access is easier with the intake tube and throttle body removed. The plug has black housing with a green push clip. To remove the plug, depress the green push clip towards the motor if it is still installed. DO NOT PRESS DOWN LIKE MOST PLUGS. I wasted about 20mins before figuring this out, and my only result was a sore thumb. Use a set of adjustable pliers with the non moving lip on the ledge of the plug if u lack the thumb strength. After roughly an hour invested a new Duralast replacement was installed, problem still present. $66 wasted as they have a no return policy on electroinics. I went back and got the sensor for Bank 1 which is on the pass side. This sensor was much easier to locate as it is the only on the pass side of the head with wires present. the plug colors are the same as Bank 2. You can access it at an angle between the engine harness using a 10mm with an extension, or a 10mm wrench at an angle. Used the same thumb, plier theory as aforementioned and had this replaced in 15mins. No success.
Knowing the 2 CAS's and the CPS work in conjunction, I decided to order a Crank Positioning Sensor. This is found underneath the car where the bell housing meets the block. Remove the plastic skid pad (5 10mm bolts) and it is easily viewed on the driver side of the bell housing where the flywheel is located. I replaced this tonight in about 20mins, and the problem persists. SES light present immediately after start up.
I'm out about $190 in sensors that I can't return, and problem is still present. is it possible the Duralast brand doesn't meet OEM spec, or am I missing something? ECU was reset after each sensor install.
1. With the problems I've found as of late, I haven't really found one thread on any forum that gives all the answers to people experiencing this problem all in one thread to get me as far as I have come with the troubleshooting process. Lots of good info broken into tiny pieces on different threads out there. I hope to help someone coming across this find the answers they are looking for.
2. To find others input as I have taken all the proper steps in fixing this problem, as it still hasn't been resolved.
3. To pretty much rant a little that this isn't revolved.
The symptoms:
Car had starting issues over the past month or so. With the key turned all accessories would turn on, but the car would respond as if I wasn't engaging the clutch pedal at all. No starter turning over, no battery acting as if it were dying, nothing. After anywhere from two to twenty turns, the car would start as if there wasn't a problem present at all. I suspected a faulty clutch pedal switch, replaced it, problem was still present.
I checked out my battery after my interior dome lights stopped working one day. Found it to be extremely corroded, and at 90k, I was due for a new one anyways. Replaced it with a Duralast Gold battery and all problems subsided. The car started right up as if it were new, every time. This lasted for about three weeks or so, then the starting issues started again.
Same problem as before, multiple turns of the key before it starts. I'm driving to work one morning and go WOT at the center of the apex on the on ramp. At about 70mph the engine cuts out and back on. SLIP, TCS, and SES lights all come on at the same time. I limp it to work, and head to autozone to have it scanned directly after.
CAS. The POS scan tool they use can't determine which bank it is, so it's a gambling game for me. I started with Bank 2. This sensor is found on the back of the head closest to the driver side. Access is easier with the intake tube and throttle body removed. The plug has black housing with a green push clip. To remove the plug, depress the green push clip towards the motor if it is still installed. DO NOT PRESS DOWN LIKE MOST PLUGS. I wasted about 20mins before figuring this out, and my only result was a sore thumb. Use a set of adjustable pliers with the non moving lip on the ledge of the plug if u lack the thumb strength. After roughly an hour invested a new Duralast replacement was installed, problem still present. $66 wasted as they have a no return policy on electroinics. I went back and got the sensor for Bank 1 which is on the pass side. This sensor was much easier to locate as it is the only on the pass side of the head with wires present. the plug colors are the same as Bank 2. You can access it at an angle between the engine harness using a 10mm with an extension, or a 10mm wrench at an angle. Used the same thumb, plier theory as aforementioned and had this replaced in 15mins. No success.
Knowing the 2 CAS's and the CPS work in conjunction, I decided to order a Crank Positioning Sensor. This is found underneath the car where the bell housing meets the block. Remove the plastic skid pad (5 10mm bolts) and it is easily viewed on the driver side of the bell housing where the flywheel is located. I replaced this tonight in about 20mins, and the problem persists. SES light present immediately after start up.
I'm out about $190 in sensors that I can't return, and problem is still present. is it possible the Duralast brand doesn't meet OEM spec, or am I missing something? ECU was reset after each sensor install.
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 467
Likes: 3
From: Australia
Your problem is probably dirty battery cable clamps on the inside surface
You stated that when you fitted a new battery the problem went away for a few weeks & has now come back.
As the battery terminals are very small there is not a lot of contact surface for electrical current to travel through.
The starter motor requires the most current of any of the cars electrical systems. Any corrosion will quickly return if it was not cleaned & sanded properly when you changed the battery.
Remove the battery clamps & dip the clamp in boiling water to remove all traces of acid corrosion, roughen up the inside surface with corse sandpaper or a wire brush. Sandpaper the battery terminals of your new battery & refit & tighten the cable clamps. Lightly smear grease over the terminals.
With the clamp tightened there should be no movement, if there is corrosion will quickly return.
Try the above & I'm all most certain your problem will be solved
You stated that when you fitted a new battery the problem went away for a few weeks & has now come back.
As the battery terminals are very small there is not a lot of contact surface for electrical current to travel through.
The starter motor requires the most current of any of the cars electrical systems. Any corrosion will quickly return if it was not cleaned & sanded properly when you changed the battery.
Remove the battery clamps & dip the clamp in boiling water to remove all traces of acid corrosion, roughen up the inside surface with corse sandpaper or a wire brush. Sandpaper the battery terminals of your new battery & refit & tighten the cable clamps. Lightly smear grease over the terminals.
With the clamp tightened there should be no movement, if there is corrosion will quickly return.
Try the above & I'm all most certain your problem will be solved
Last edited by Nathan; Apr 28, 2012 at 10:49 PM.
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: east coast
I'm driving to work one morning and go WOT at the center of the apex on the on ramp. At about 70mph the engine cuts out and back on. SLIP, TCS, and SES lights all come on at the same time. I limp it to work, and head to autozone to have it scanned directly after. ECU was reset after each sensor install.
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