ok planned swaps to follow but kinda wanna hear from you guys here at my350Z at what you think i will get rwhp wise with...

cosworth short block 8.8:1 low compression 96mm
cosworth rev-up head
cosworth rev-up 270 deg camshafts
cosworth intake Plenum
rev-up oil pump
nismo thermo
ngk 2 step colder plugs
Megan Racing 350Z Engine and Transmission Motor Mount Set
unorthodox racing underdrive pulley kit
e85 fuel conversion,injectors,fuel pump,etc
greddy 20g stage 2 twin turbo kit /w ic,guages,controller,etc
tomei lsd with 3.9 final
nismo finned dif cover
act clutch or clutchmasters
l/w flywheel
heavy duty clutch fork<--i have an 03
ss clutch line
short shifter
DriveShaft Shop 350Z Level 5 Axle Kit
Skunk2 Intake Plenum Spacer
already have an exhaust set up but might change it

think thats about it but let me know if you see something i missed not counting interior or exterior that will come latter. looking into bbk and new rims also wtb rays wish they never stopped making them

 

instead of dumping all that money, why dont you do an ls swap, it would come out cheaper and it would be a dependable 450 to the wheels without any forced induction

not to mention you would be spending more money on the car that what it cost brand new....

 

489.

3.9 FD is not a good idea on a high-hp build. Consider going the other way.

 

Looks like someone is making their dream shopping list.

I went with a 3.3FD to help lower gears and traction

 

Umm, 7.

 

over 9000!

 

so like the guy below sugested go with 3.3 fd? is that oem from a auto 350z?

is that 489 factoring the amount of boost ill be able to push on an all forged engine?

 

I tuned out as soon as I read what tuning device do you plan to use?

add an oil cooler

 

dosnt matter since its only going to last a couple weeks of that pulley hammering the bearings.everyone is screwing with since you failed rule 7 of the TOU and frankly wish mods would enforce itforapp these threads that pop up.

 

Skunk2 is for Hondas, mishimoto makes a cheaper racing thermostat, and if you're going all out like that, why use Megan? No hate on Megan but they aren't too of the line.

 

between the block you said you were going to get and the turbo you are at about 18k already and then add in all the other parts. i think you are FOS and just trolling. kids like you like to dream big, in reality you prob driving your dads old pacer from the 70's

 

Not trolling this was my plan for when i get back from afghan in june-ish ill have about 40k to spend. but now im also looking into your original advise and looking into a ls swap. I threw out a few PMs to the main people on the swap threads for some advise/options. still want to go F/I even if i change my mind and do the LS swap.

 

if your in the military then my apologies. if it was my car then i would do the ls swap, it will be a solid 400+ hp and you can always turbo it later on. not telling you how to spend your money, but i would tuck some of that away for a rainy day, i have seen it too many times people on tour save all this money to come back and blow it and just have a nice car to show for it... just my two cents sir

 

i totally want a pacer now. OP, deployments are pretty much at a end, stick half your cash away and plan on getting out. even if you plan on staying in the option might not be yours to make and thats a nice house downpayment.

i heavily disagree with lsx though unless all you plan on is 400 whp, if you plan for FI the lsx is going to be just as if not more expensive. trick is to stick with one of the competent engine builders.

 

i am helping a buddy do a swap in a g35 now, engine,ecu, and trans was 8k (already cammed and diff heads i believe), sikky kit was approx 3500. a good twin turbo kit is going to be that much by itself. with all the stuff he wanted he would be around if not higher than 400 hp

 

Potato....

 

you cant rely on getting a deal on engine and trans though, "lucky cases" arnt what you judge a decision off of, by that measure a couple guys have gotten lucky with mid 500's from DE engines.

what you have listed is for stock block power if you notice i said i heavily disagree with going LSX UNLESS 400 is all they ever will want. what are they doing for a tach, are you helping out with all the custom work since every swap so far has needed modifications to fit properly? accessorys?

alot of stuff your not factoring in, plus i dont understand why people always open with "a good twin kit will cost you that" the single kits are much cheaper and certain kits perform as well if not better then the twin kits i know my single performs better then the twins.


the fact the OP is going for a built engine means he is after higher then 400 so they will probably want to FI a lsx also which means buying a turbo kit for that which requires LARGER twins and a built engine still so now he still has the cost of a built engine as well as a swap on top of that, only time that would be worthwhile is 1000WHP+ where the displacement just makes it alot easier.

 

the kit he got he got included headers, motor mounts, trans mount, power steering hoses, clutch lines, sikky is mating the two computers together, he is using the gas pedal for the donor car and so far that is the only thing yet to figure out.. so far it has been plug and play . the engine and trans went straight in. per sikky the are close to making the stock tach work, ac will have to be custom made. i was just giving him options that MIGHT be cheaper. american engine parts are alot cheaper and more readily available

 

ive read on the ls swap threads some have gotten the ac and tach to work. also saw another swap kit from fueld racing im looking into unless sikky worked out all the bugs they saw when they first came out with the kit. seems avg cost of swap is 10-12k in parts labor im not sure yet talking with my guy but either way comparable hp less money is looking better every thread i read would leave money for the exterior. just wish they would pm me back so i can start part shopping with a better idea of everything ill need.

 

stock tach close to working has been forever now, what about the shifter? that has been one of the biggest issues with the sikky kits. should have gotten a driveshaft with kit too........ dont figure how you figure parts for domestics are cheaper. the only time that holds true is if you are going to the original gen 1 small blocks which no one does.

700 whp vq,
arp stud kit $550
bearings $200
billet girdle $300
BP turbo kit $6000
cams $1000(and honestly only need them for traction not to make the power
head gaskets $300
eagle rods $500
wossner pistons $900
oil control baffle $75
haltech $2400 new one
plenum spacer $200
southbend clutch with lightweight flywheel $1000
revup pump $200
gasket kit $300
cheapo headers $250
machine work $1000(go off local prices so prices are comparable to both i know can be done way cheaper elseware)
your at 15175


ls swap 700 whp
3500 swap kit
ls1 drop out with wiring harness, ecu and t56 average on ebay right now(what most can expect to pay) $5500,ls2 or ls3 will be more
fast intake $1000
eagle 383 kit $2000(and pushing the limits for eagle on a domestic they dont last nearly as long as they do on the imports)
trick flow heads $2500(something you dont need on the vq since it flows ridiculous already)
comp cams cam and lifters $600
roller rockers $500
hp tuners to tune $650
melling oil pump $150
head studs $320
main studs $240
cheap gasket kit $110
ls9 head gaskets $100
so 17170 and havnt touched FI or clutch solution yet or machining which will be even more since 2 additional cylinders............ as i always say the only time lsx is worth while is if your going for 1000+ whp where the vq starts to catch up to the lsx in terms of cost since its harder for the engine to do it or if you plan to stay at 400 whp and never budge from that ever, AND dont care about stock tach.

you wont find anyone on this site who has actually swapped a engine and claimed it was actually cheaper bro. the swap kit and drop out alone costs what base FI would cost you and you know it bolts up.