Nissan "Express Service"
08-23-2014, 04:20 PM
#21
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People pay other people to do an oil change? even if the plastic tray was a valid excuse for it being a pain in the ***, take all that money you saved and but the Z speed aluminum tray and bam 1 screw no problem.
On a side note,
Moble 1 makes my car run like crap. They use to be decent oil but I know they have cheapened it up a bit recently, with less of the high temp chemicals. Run Amsoil for a change, every VQ35 I have owned (3 of them) love it. I can feel a huge difference between mobile 1 and ams, thats how bad it was.
On a side note,
Moble 1 makes my car run like crap. They use to be decent oil but I know they have cheapened it up a bit recently, with less of the high temp chemicals. Run Amsoil for a change, every VQ35 I have owned (3 of them) love it. I can feel a huge difference between mobile 1 and ams, thats how bad it was.
I just lay a few broken down cardboard boxes on the driveway to catch any mess I might make. Plus having a fumoto drain valve makes the entire job even easier, I don't even need any tools, just a jack and jack stands.
08-23-2014, 04:56 PM
#22
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I took mine to a local dealer, $60 later I left and didn't realize that they damaged my front bumper until I got home. They put my car through a car wash and it looks like they got it caught on something and they backed up tearing it loose from the underside connections. I went back and was told if I can't prove it then they won't fix it.
08-23-2014, 06:33 PM
#24
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Time is of no concern for me when changing oil. I simply park the car on my 4-post lift, secure the car, raise the lift, and start the process. Mine doesn't need removal of the undertray; 2-3 fasteners and it bends enough to allow my arm & filter wrench to reach the oil filter. Then onto the drain plug.
While oil is draining, I look around the undercarriage. See if there's anything loose, leaking, or needing attention. I spray lithium grease on certain areas (no brake friction surface, mind you), wiggle things to check, note areas that may need immediate or later attention, check inner lip of the wheels, ball joints, tie rods, suspension arms, and if I feel like it, I'd undo a few fasteners and coat the threads with anti-seize compound. Sometimes I wipe certain areas of the undercarriage.
Check if oil had stopped dripping; if not, I go back to checking things out. Rinse & repeat. How long does something like that take? No idea, I know I'm taking my sweet time doing it. No, no beer involved.
While oil is draining, I look around the undercarriage. See if there's anything loose, leaking, or needing attention. I spray lithium grease on certain areas (no brake friction surface, mind you), wiggle things to check, note areas that may need immediate or later attention, check inner lip of the wheels, ball joints, tie rods, suspension arms, and if I feel like it, I'd undo a few fasteners and coat the threads with anti-seize compound. Sometimes I wipe certain areas of the undercarriage.
Check if oil had stopped dripping; if not, I go back to checking things out. Rinse & repeat. How long does something like that take? No idea, I know I'm taking my sweet time doing it. No, no beer involved.
08-23-2014, 06:54 PM
#25
Time is of no concern for me when changing oil. I simply park the car on my 4-post lift, secure the car, raise the lift, and start the process. Mine doesn't need removal of the undertray; 2-3 fasteners and it bends enough to allow my arm & filter wrench to reach the oil filter. Then onto the drain plug.
While oil is draining, I look around the undercarriage. See if there's anything loose, leaking, or needing attention. I spray lithium grease on certain areas (no brake friction surface, mind you), wiggle things to check, note areas that may need immediate or later attention, check inner lip of the wheels, ball joints, tie rods, suspension arms, and if I feel like it, I'd undo a few fasteners and coat the threads with anti-seize compound. Sometimes I wipe certain areas of the undercarriage.
Check if oil had stopped dripping; if not, I go back to checking things out. Rinse & repeat. How long does something like that take? No idea, I know I'm taking my sweet time doing it. No, no beer involved.
While oil is draining, I look around the undercarriage. See if there's anything loose, leaking, or needing attention. I spray lithium grease on certain areas (no brake friction surface, mind you), wiggle things to check, note areas that may need immediate or later attention, check inner lip of the wheels, ball joints, tie rods, suspension arms, and if I feel like it, I'd undo a few fasteners and coat the threads with anti-seize compound. Sometimes I wipe certain areas of the undercarriage.
Check if oil had stopped dripping; if not, I go back to checking things out. Rinse & repeat. How long does something like that take? No idea, I know I'm taking my sweet time doing it. No, no beer involved.
Working on cars would be something great to learn. When I replaced my window motor, not only did I save $$ but it was rewarding. My mechanic does side work at his home and has a lift like that. He charges only like $30 an hour and does great work.
I looked under my carriage and saw the techs who did the oil change last time didn't tighten all of the bolts securing the underpanel to the bumper. I know it's a ***** to take off but still. I don't want it to get caught on anything, that has happened before with my older car.
08-23-2014, 06:57 PM
#26
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Regarding oil changes.....if nothing else, at least ask the tech to use a torque wrench when tightening the drain plug. Give him the torque value, tell him you want the filter hand-tight plus 1/4.....conveying the importance of those things may mean they treat your car with more than the usual amount of care.
08-23-2014, 07:52 PM
#27
I use Mobil One synthetic regularly with no issues. I'm stock, 05MT.
Regarding oil changes.....if nothing else, at least ask the tech to use a torque wrench when tightening the drain plug. Give him the torque value, tell him you want the filter hand-tight plus 1/4.....conveying the importance of those things may mean they treat your car with more than the usual amount of care.
Regarding oil changes.....if nothing else, at least ask the tech to use a torque wrench when tightening the drain plug. Give him the torque value, tell him you want the filter hand-tight plus 1/4.....conveying the importance of those things may mean they treat your car with more than the usual amount of care.
I think a lot of the techs at least up here in NY really don't care. The dealer is not really making anything on an oil change. They always do the "free multipoint inspection", and they always find something. Sadly for them, I'm the type of customer that will never get work done there.
08-24-2014, 04:02 AM
#28
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Nice! I've always wanted a garage area with a lift. What kind and brand of oil do you use?
Working on cars would be something great to learn. When I replaced my window motor, not only did I save $$ but it was rewarding. My mechanic does side work at his home and has a lift like that. He charges only like $30 an hour and does great work.
I looked under my carriage and saw the techs who did the oil change last time didn't tighten all of the bolts securing the underpanel to the bumper. I know it's a ***** to take off but still. I don't want it to get caught on anything, that has happened before with my older car.
Working on cars would be something great to learn. When I replaced my window motor, not only did I save $$ but it was rewarding. My mechanic does side work at his home and has a lift like that. He charges only like $30 an hour and does great work.
I looked under my carriage and saw the techs who did the oil change last time didn't tighten all of the bolts securing the underpanel to the bumper. I know it's a ***** to take off but still. I don't want it to get caught on anything, that has happened before with my older car.
The lift is a Direct Lift Pro Park 8S, it's nothing fancy, just a basic 4-post. Pretty much the cheapest I could find. It serves the main purpose as a storage lift and the advantage for changing oil is a bonus.
08-24-2014, 05:27 AM
#29
I hate changing the oil on my Z but do it for the following reason: I get all the old oil out, this doesn't happen when you get it changed anywhere else. When the oil stops draining and you jack up one side of the car oil will start draining again, jack up the other side and even more comes out. This takes a long time but I don't want any old oil in my engine. This being said I just had the dealer do my rear brakes and previously had them do my accessory belts, they did a great job and are reasonable if you wait for service specials or use coupons.
08-24-2014, 05:46 AM
#30
I hate changing the oil on my Z but do it for the following reason: I get all the old oil out, this doesn't happen when you get it changed anywhere else. When the oil stops draining and you jack up one side of the car oil will start draining again, jack up the other side and even more comes out. This takes a long time but I don't want any old oil in my engine. This being said I just had the dealer do my rear brakes and previously had them do my accessory belts, they did a great job and are reasonable if you wait for service specials or use coupons.
08-24-2014, 09:48 AM
#31
Honestly, go to a friends place to change your oil if you don't like the way other people treat your car. No one will treat it as well as you would.
The under tray is not that bad to remove. They're all 10mm bolts and one clip iirc. Tighten the drain plug so it's snug then another quarter of a turn or so same with the filter.
I would never go to Jiffy Lube to get anything done. I've heard so many horror stories about them from reviews and family members. If they don't remove that plastic tray, you're gonna have oil sitting on that tray as you drive and spray all over the underside of your car.
The under tray is not that bad to remove. They're all 10mm bolts and one clip iirc. Tighten the drain plug so it's snug then another quarter of a turn or so same with the filter.
I would never go to Jiffy Lube to get anything done. I've heard so many horror stories about them from reviews and family members. If they don't remove that plastic tray, you're gonna have oil sitting on that tray as you drive and spray all over the underside of your car.
08-24-2014, 12:02 PM
#32
When I was about 18 or so, I took my VW Jetta to Monroe Muffler for a quick oil change.
About half a day later my oil light comes on so I immediatly went to the side of the road. People passing me started to go very slowly, and one guy said you might want to look under your car.. All your oil is pouring out. Sure enough the drain plug came loose while driving and fell out.
Needless to say they fired the kid as he was new. But they would not replace my engine even though I am certain there was damage. I took a loss and sold it with a bad motor and got something new.
About half a day later my oil light comes on so I immediatly went to the side of the road. People passing me started to go very slowly, and one guy said you might want to look under your car.. All your oil is pouring out. Sure enough the drain plug came loose while driving and fell out.
Needless to say they fired the kid as he was new. But they would not replace my engine even though I am certain there was damage. I took a loss and sold it with a bad motor and got something new.
08-25-2014, 07:13 AM
#34
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Almost 7 quarts, I have to pull the splitter , mine is about a 2 hour ordeal.
08-30-2014, 12:00 PM
#35
$550 is almost double what my dealership wanted with new rotors. Wow! I had them machine my rotors and it was $180 with all taxes, shop fees, etc.
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