I have a 2005 Nissan 350z that I was driving up my subdivision and all of a sudden jus completely died, I pushed it back to garage, replaced position cam sensors 1 and 2, replaced crank sensor and still no start up! I checked fuel pump it's working and and only code it is throwing in car is p1111

 

Have you checked NAT system? Is the red light on dash on solid when you turn the key on? What made you replace the cam sensors/crank sensor before? How did you check the fuel pump? Are you getting a spark? Check the spark at the coil plugs....Look for anything unplugged around engine. Reset the ECU. Sounds like a NAT issue to me though with how sudden it is. But P1111 NISSAN Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve code is thrown from a lot of things. Both valid and false positive. Check what I said before and see what happens. Check the plugs on the VVT solenoids (The two cylinder objects that are directly in front of the valve covers under plastic cover.) Unplug, are the plugs wet? Is oil leaking from around the solenoids?

 

Are you tried a different key?

 

I replaced can sensors and crank sensors due to it was throwing the codes and when it quit I thought that was the reasons, so I replaced them and still will not start, checked fuel pump, can hear it plainly prime up and give motor fuel, there is no spark, shot starting fluid directly into motor no spark, so I took all the relays out and fuses and checked them and put them back in, now when I put key in car and try to start the red dash light stays solid and will not start and before the red light would not stay solid before checking relays and also when I turn car on now and try to start the red dash light stays solid and radiator fans kick on full speed! Have no clue wats causing the no start and dash light, is it possible my ecu is dead

 

No I only have one key that when I bought it came with

 

I've had issues with keys before which is why I brought it up, but that could also be a NATS issue. I don't know more than what I just said though. Good luck.

 

If the red light stays on you have a security problem. The only way to fix this is by having a dealer go into the system with their tool to de-activate the security lockout and hopefully re-learn your keys if they are still good. Unfortunately you are gonna have to get it towed in or find somebody local with that tool. There's a thread on here somewhere where the exact name and tool model is listed to do it. Trust me, it's not cheap to buy it yourself. You'll save money by towing it to a dealer and letting them unlock it. The ECU is fine, the car locked itself up more then likely because your key went bad, and pulling every single fuse and relay more the likely compounded the isse (although I've never heard of that causing that) Like I said, you need a dealer to bypass NATS lockout, or go get a new key made and try that