bionicman

Hey all! This is my first post, and let me start off by saying I am trying my best to not be a NOOB. I have read the top 100 questions post and I actually found something that I think applies to me so thanks for all the info.

I found this:
Q: I hear a clicking sound sometimes. What is that? Sounds like it's coming from the rear of the car?

A: Beware of a slight metallic clicking sound coming from the rear of the car. It is due to the rear axle not being properly lubricated. If your car has this problem, you will usually hear this clicking sound when (1) in an enclosed space or driving near a hard wall, (2) driving without radio and with the window down (try turning off A/C if you still aren't sure), and (3) starting to move from a halt. The clicking sound is more pronounced while turning, or so it seems.

If you have the clicking, your car is due for a "Technical Service Bulletin" or "TSB" repair for rear axle clicking, which is covered under warranty. Take it to a dealer, and don't leave until they agree to fix it.

So I do hear a clicking sound and it seems to follow all the symptoms except for the worse when turning part, also it does it when letting the clutch out while downshifting.

Im ready to take her in for the TSB repair if this is my issue, the thread says that this should be "covered under warranty" i would assume this does not qualify in my case as the car is used with 110k miles?

Any advice on not getting the run around?

zakmartin

I did the repair in my garage. Took about 2 hours and all you need is Moly grease, some basic tools and some sweat and lube while brushing out the corrosion where the axle splines meet the hub.

If you want to take it to a shop, just hand them the TSB and tell them to "do that." What needs to be done is all spelled out clearly in the TSB; there's really nothing else to do unless there's so much damage that parts need to be replaced.

bionicman

Ok thanks alot zakmartin, Its good to hear that this is something I may be able to do myself. Im trying to get more familiar with my car so i would be willing to do this myself.

How hard is this in comparison to changing brakes pads?

Also do you have a link to the TSB? I found another forum post that stated it was NTB04-065 but i could not find it on the nissan site.

How will I know if there is damage and need for replacement parts?

Thanks for all the help!

zakmartin

Sorry. I've been busy playing Fallout 4.

Here's the link to the TSB: http://www.notre350z.com/forum/files...ClickClack.pdf

It applies to all years, not just the ones specified in the bulletin.

It's about the same level of difficulty as changing out brakes (I'm obsessive-compulsive about auto repair, so I take more time doing things on my Z than a mechanic getting a flat-rate fee would.)

The only specialty tools you'll need are a torque wrench that's good to about 200 ft-lbs and a 32-inch axle nut socket. Air tools are great for removing the nut(s), but a long breaker bar should work just fine if you don't have access to those. I recommend you get replacement axle nuts before you start this repair. OEM is better, but the Dorman nuts you can get at a parts store are fine for this job (though they use a harder metal than what Nissan uses.) I recommend you get new cotter pins as well. Again, Dorman brand parts should be fine, since they're not overly complicated for this application. You can probably rent the specialty tools at your local parts store if you don't own them already.

The TSB says to only work on the axle that's making noise. My philosophy is that if one axle is clicking, the other is likely to follow in due course.

I ended up dropping my rear lower control arm to get better access to the axle when I removed it. Just use a floor jack to safely lower the arm and remove the spring when you unbolt it from the hub assembly. Everything you need to know (torque settings, etc.) are in the FSM for your model year (see the FSM sticky at the top of this forum.) Do it right. The spring's under a lot of tension and you can get hurt if you don't find a safe jack point from which to lower the arm.

I used Honda M77 Moly Paste for the job. You can get it on Amazon here:

You'll know there's damage if you see a corrosion on the joining parts to the point where everything is so pitted it that it's not cleanable. Since you're in Texas and outside the rust belt, I really doubt that's going to be a problem.

You can watch videos on the procedure on Youtube as well. Spend a few minutes educating yourself before you decide if you want to do it yourself or pay to have a shop do it. On a 1 to 5 scale (from easy to difficult), I'd give this job about a 2 just because you have to put in some elbow grease during the cleaning phase (give it a 3 if you're a complete novice at auto repair). Finally, despite what one Youtube shop advertises as an ideal fix, I would recommend against using blue Loctite where the TSB calls for Moly grease.