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A/C does not work and it's 95 degrees out !

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Old Aug 21, 2017 | 11:01 AM
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Default A/C does not work and it's 95 degrees out !

The A/C is blowing out hot air, in auto or manual mode. I have had 2 mechanics test the system and they say it has Freon and that the compressor works. I can hear and see the condenser working. The belt is nice and tight. The temp gauge for the engine temp work as does the ambient temp gauge. I was thinking it can possibly be the ambient temperature sensor, but the gauge on the dash is accurate. Any other ideas ? The car is practically parked because it is black leather and it is insanely hot inside the cabin.

Thanks in advance

Last edited by lmg1985; Aug 23, 2017 at 06:36 AM.
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Old Aug 21, 2017 | 11:42 AM
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Take it to a mechanic who has an AC machine available and knows what he's doing. Anyone can tell if it has refrigerant in it or not. Sounds like you need a new guy
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Old Aug 21, 2017 | 11:48 AM
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You can see the condensor working? Lol wut
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Old Aug 21, 2017 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by coletrickle74
Take it to a mechanic who has an AC machine available and knows what he's doing. Anyone can tell if it has refrigerant in it or not. Sounds like you need a new guy
I have taken the car to 2 mechanics. They both said the same thing -

The compressor works
The system has Freon

One wants $2xx to fix the problem but wouldn't tell me what it was and the other stated $8x to diagnose then extra to fix.

Last edited by lmg1985; Aug 23, 2017 at 06:37 AM.
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Old Aug 21, 2017 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by lmg1985
I have taken the car to 2 mechanics. They both said the same thing -

The condenser works
The system has Freon

One wants $2xx to fix the problem but wouldn't tell me what it was and the other stated $8x to diagnose then extra to fix.
why would they? they get paid to fix cars
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Old Aug 21, 2017 | 02:00 PM
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Generally speaking, if you don't understand automotive A/C systems, don't even try. And for god's sake, don't buy those ridiculous R-134a refrigerant kits from Autozone thinking it'll fix the problem, because odds are, it's just going to make things worse.

If the blower's actually working and you're getting good high and low side pressure, but you're only getting hot air out of the vents, there's a good possibility that it's either because the blend air door is stuck toward the heater core or because the climate control box isn't working. If the air was blowing at ambient temp but smells like mold, it's because your evaporator is clogged.

Fortunately, A/C isn't an expensive fix compared to other issues that can pop up on your car (unless you end up buying a brand new control box, which is $$$$, so stick with a recycled part if you can.) If you can't live with rolled-down windows, which of course, on a 350Z is a hit or miss proposition in and of itself, then take it to an A/C specialist.
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Old Aug 21, 2017 | 02:00 PM
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Does it have enough refrigerant in it? Go buy the refill kits with the gauge built into them and check to see if it has the proper charger.
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Old Aug 21, 2017 | 02:16 PM
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Where in south FL are you? I could take a look at it.
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Old Aug 21, 2017 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by iideadeyeii
You can see the condensor working? Lol wut


I was thinking the same thing but figured not to point it out. Seemed like the least of his worries.
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Old Aug 21, 2017 | 07:12 PM
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It's almost certainly the controller (A/C amp). Little white box behind the controls with a ribbon cable attached. Very common issue.
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Old Aug 22, 2017 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by liven Z life
Does it have enough refrigerant in it? Go buy the refill kits with the gauge built into them and check to see if it has the proper charger.


Bad advice at every level.
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Old Aug 22, 2017 | 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by lmg1985
I have had 2 mechanics test the system and they say it has Freon
Originally Posted by liven Z life
Does it have enough refrigerant in it? Go buy the refill kits with the gauge built into them and check to see if it has the proper charger.
He said it does. Bad advise x2
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Old Aug 22, 2017 | 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by zakmartin
Generally speaking, if you don't understand automotive A/C systems, don't even try. And for god's sake, don't buy those ridiculous R-134a refrigerant kits from Autozone thinking it'll fix the problem, because odds are, it's just going to make things worse.

If the blower's actually working and you're getting good high and low side pressure, but you're only getting hot air out of the vents, there's a good possibility that it's either because the blend air door is stuck toward the heater core or because the climate control box isn't working. If the air was blowing at ambient temp but smells like mold, it's because your evaporator is clogged.

Fortunately, A/C isn't an expensive fix compared to other issues that can pop up on your car (unless you end up buying a brand new control box, which is $$$$, so stick with a recycled part if you can.) If you can't live with rolled-down windows, which of course, on a 350Z is a hit or miss proposition in and of itself, then take it to an A/C specialist.
Actually just used one of these today on my old '97 Corolla. It seemed a good temp fix for the issue, just curious why these are bad to use?
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Old Aug 22, 2017 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by WYZIWYG
Actually just used one of these today on my old '97 Corolla. It seemed a good temp fix for the issue, just curious why these are bad to use?
Simple answer: you're putting a band-aid over a bleeding cut. Nothing more.

More complicated answer: you are leaking refrigerant from somewhere in a closed system, and that means you're probably leaking AC lubricant as well. Adding refrigerant from those overpriced crap kits they sell at Autozone doesn't replace the oil. Also, ambient air and all the wonderful water vapor it contains will slowly be introduced into the system every time you top off the refrigerant with the Autozone kit. Eventually, your AC system will dry out and quit. That's when things get really expensive.

If you have a proper AC inspection done with a vacuum and a manifold, and the pressures are good, then you'll know that there's no leak. Simple enough. If your pressures are good, then the problem's going to be with an ancillary part of the AC system (fan, tubes, fuses & relays, evaporator, climate control computer, etc.) According to the OP, the pressures were found to be in the correct range by two mechanics, though that's assuming my interpretation of "it has Freon and... the condenser works," is correct. Taking his word on that, any repairs he makes should be focused on parts of the system that are outside the closed pressure loop.

Somehow though, I doubt we'll be hearing back from the OP, so anything added to the thread at this point is purely academic.

EDIT:
Just noticed it's a '97 Corolla we're talking about here. Feel free to use duct tape and ice cubes

Last edited by zakmartin; Aug 22, 2017 at 03:10 PM.
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Old Aug 22, 2017 | 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by zakmartin
Simple answer: you're putting a band-aid over a bleeding cut. Nothing more.

More complicated answer: you are leaking refrigerant from somewhere in a closed system, and that means you're probably leaking AC lubricant as well. Adding refrigerant from those overpriced crap kits they sell at Autozone doesn't replace the oil. Also, ambient air and all the wonderful water vapor it contains will slowly be introduced into the system every time you top off the refrigerant with the Autozone kit. Eventually, your AC system will dry out and quit. That's when things get really expensive.

If you have a proper AC inspection done with a vacuum and a manifold, and the pressures are good, then you'll know that there's no leak. Simple enough. If your pressures are good, then the problem's going to be with an ancillary part of the AC system (fan, tubes, fuses & relays, evaporator, climate control computer, etc.) According to the OP, the pressures were found to be in the correct range by two mechanics, though that's assuming my interpretation of "it has Freon and... the condenser works," is correct. Taking his word on that, any repairs he makes should be focused on parts of the system that are outside the closed pressure loop.

Somehow though, I doubt we'll be hearing back from the OP, so anything added to the thread at this point is purely academic.

EDIT:
Just noticed it's a '97 Corolla we're talking about here. Feel free to use duct tape and ice cubes
I wouldn't use this crap in my Z, but the Corolla's been my beater since grad school [2001]. But after reading this, I'll take it in if the AC starts going out again. But we've only got a few more weeks of 'Summer' anyway.
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Old Aug 23, 2017 | 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Italianjoe1
Where in south FL are you? I could take a look at it.
Coral Springs
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Old Aug 23, 2017 | 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Italianjoe1
Where in south FL are you? I could take a look at it.
Originally Posted by iideadeyeii
You can see the condensor working? Lol wut
I meant compressor
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Old Aug 23, 2017 | 06:54 AM
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^^ Haha, I know. Just busting your chops ^^
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Old Aug 23, 2017 | 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by zakmartin
Simple answer: you're putting a band-aid over a bleeding cut. Nothing more.

More complicated answer: you are leaking refrigerant from somewhere in a closed system, and that means you're probably leaking AC lubricant as well. Adding refrigerant from those overpriced crap kits they sell at Autozone doesn't replace the oil. Also, ambient air and all the wonderful water vapor it contains will slowly be introduced into the system every time you top off the refrigerant with the Autozone kit. Eventually, your AC system will dry out and quit. That's when things get really expensive.

If you have a proper AC inspection done with a vacuum and a manifold, and the pressures are good, then you'll know that there's no leak. Simple enough. If your pressures are good, then the problem's going to be with an ancillary part of the AC system (fan, tubes, fuses & relays, evaporator, climate control computer, etc.) According to the OP, the pressures were found to be in the correct range by two mechanics, though that's assuming my interpretation of "it has Freon and... the condenser works," is correct. Taking his word on that, any repairs he makes should be focused on parts of the system that are outside the closed pressure loop.

Somehow though, I doubt we'll be hearing back from the OP, so anything added to the thread at this point is purely academic.

EDIT:
Just noticed it's a '97 Corolla we're talking about here. Feel free to use duct tape and ice cubes
I'll keep coming back until I fix this issue. How would I be able to diagnose a faulty a/c amp ? I took apart part my dash to take a look at the ribbon and it looked great. No cuts or anything loose from what I gathered. It has a stock head unit and was purchased from a single owner who ,to my knowledge, did not modify the car.
Thanks to all again
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Old Aug 23, 2017 | 09:03 AM
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You won't see it. Basically, if everything else works, it's the a/c amp. First thing you need to do is have a mechanic read the pressures with the a/c on. Saying "it has freon" means nothing. Reading the pressures can tell you a lot about what's going on.
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