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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 10:56 AM
  #3721  
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Originally Posted by Barnabas
Yay clay!! your getting whiter by the minute.
If I ever ask you to take me hunting and start dipping again I may have to change my status.
Old Nov 14, 2011 | 02:16 PM
  #3722  
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Originally Posted by WYZIWYG
Never been damaged, still got the OEM one and only at 66K miles for an '05. They said it's running really lean/rich and also said my car is low enough to be doing damage to the 02 plugs in the HFCs.
I highly doubt you damaged your O2s from being too low. It's a dealership, anytime you mod anything they will pretty much throw anything at you.

So they see that its running hot and without further inspection they say you should replace it? Did they even check to see if you've got air in the lines, or maybe it's time to do a flush?

As far as O2s goes. If a dealership is using a code reader they could get a cell for the O2s not working when really... they are, but since you're catless......

If they replace them and it doesnt fix your problem. There's no telling the dealership to **** off and not to charge you for the work that didn't fix the problem, since you're modded they will just blame it on that.

Anyways.

http://www.nissanpartsconnection.com...30513/2/30513/

$156.66 each for new O2s.

http://www.nissanpartsconnection.com...20114/8/20114/

$430 for the radiator

If you let them do 2 O2s and replace the radiator I bet your bill will be in the $1500 range.
Old Nov 14, 2011 | 02:37 PM
  #3723  
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Clay did you do the non-fouler trick? It usually works. I need to do it on mine.
Old Nov 14, 2011 | 05:42 PM
  #3724  
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Originally Posted by jeffie7
I highly doubt you damaged your O2s from being too low. It's a dealership, anytime you mod anything they will pretty much throw anything at you.

So they see that its running hot and without further inspection they say you should replace it? Did they even check to see if you've got air in the lines, or maybe it's time to do a flush?

As far as O2s goes. If a dealership is using a code reader they could get a cell for the O2s not working when really... they are, but since you're catless......

If they replace them and it doesnt fix your problem. There's no telling the dealership to **** off and not to charge you for the work that didn't fix the problem, since you're modded they will just blame it on that.

Anyways.

http://www.nissanpartsconnection.com...30513/2/30513/

$156.66 each for new O2s.

http://www.nissanpartsconnection.com...20114/8/20114/

$430 for the radiator

If you let them do 2 O2s and replace the radiator I bet your bill will be in the $1500 range.
I\

I was going to replace the radiator with an aftermarket anyway and pick up one of those oil pan spacers too. Just never got around to it. I guess I need to get an OBD reader as well so I'll know what's going on before bringing it to anyone. I'm more pissed right now since they brought a new part from Baltimore only to learn it was faulty, so now I have this POS Altima until tomorrow and have to leave work early to get my car.
Old Nov 14, 2011 | 06:18 PM
  #3725  
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Clay I have a reader if you want to borrow it
Old Nov 14, 2011 | 06:39 PM
  #3726  
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Why do you want an oil spacer and new rad? I have the stock radiator in my 350Z from 2003 even when its was 100 out my temps never went over 40%
Old Nov 14, 2011 | 06:45 PM
  #3727  
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BTW any Advanced Auto, pepboys, or Auto Zone can pull codes for you.
I don't get why people get so weirded out with codes. There's only one check engine/SRS light that gets me worried.

The oil light.

Anything else is pretty much a dummy light to let you know a random sensor is either failing or getting a weird reading from a random part letting you know something else failed.

I wouldn't avoid the check engine light but I also wouldn't be in any rush to get it fixed. Just get the codes pulled when you have a chance and figure out the best option to take for fixing it.
Old Nov 14, 2011 | 07:20 PM
  #3728  
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Originally Posted by jeffie7
BTW any Advanced Auto, pepboys, or Auto Zone can pull codes for you.
I don't get why people get so weirded out with codes. There's only one check engine/SRS light that gets me worried.

The oil light.

Anything else is pretty much a dummy light to let you know a random sensor is either failing or getting a weird reading from a random part letting you know something else failed.

I wouldn't avoid the check engine light but I also wouldn't be in any rush to get it fixed. Just get the codes pulled when you have a chance and figure out the best option to take for fixing it.
Guess I'm just **** that way. I've got check engine lights on in both cars and I'd rather have them gone before the winter gets here even though the Z will be parked.
Old Nov 15, 2011 | 04:11 AM
  #3729  
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Dont waste your money clay... Get a tune it will be money much better spent.

That and dont ever let the Dealership diagnose your car again.
Old Nov 15, 2011 | 04:17 AM
  #3730  
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Originally Posted by WYZIWYG
Never been damaged, still got the OEM one and only at 66K miles for an '05. They said it's running really lean/rich and also said my car is low enough to be doing damage to the 02 plugs in the HFCs.
That can't be the issue.. my o2 plugs on my test pipes hung low as hell and my car was slammed and i never once scrapped them..
Old Nov 15, 2011 | 06:20 AM
  #3731  
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Originally Posted by Barnabas
Dont waste your money clay... Get a tune it will be money much better spent.

That and dont ever let the Dealership diagnose your car again.
I remember E10 saying something about the type of weather is an issue with getting a tune. Like I should wait until it's warm out before hitting up Frank. Is this true?
Old Nov 15, 2011 | 06:57 AM
  #3732  
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No.
Old Nov 15, 2011 | 08:15 AM
  #3733  
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Clay I have a good code scanner. Its always just a call or text away for any of your cars.

DO NOT spend money on the radiator, you dont need an aftermarket one. Them telling you the cooling system affects the A/F or vice versa is BS.

You dont need an oil pan spacer either.

What bolt ons do you have again?

I might consider adding a few more and then doing a nice tune. My car with most bolt ons before the tune ran EXTREMELY LEAN. I knew it form the dyno, and the way it felt. EGT's would get crazy on 5th gear pulls, Id blow cherries out of my mufflers lol.

It never did damage to my motor, once tuned it ran like a raped ape NA, it was really a fun reliable setup.
Old Nov 15, 2011 | 08:35 AM
  #3734  
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Originally Posted by Alberto
Clay I have a good code scanner. Its always just a call or text away for any of your cars.

DO NOT spend money on the radiator, you dont need an aftermarket one. Them telling you the cooling system affects the A/F or vice versa is BS.

You dont need an oil pan spacer either.

What bolt ons do you have again?I might consider adding a few more and then doing a nice tune. My car with most bolt ons before the tune ran EXTREMELY LEAN. I knew it form the dyno, and the way it felt. EGT's would get crazy on 5th gear pulls, Id blow cherries out of my mufflers lol.

It never did damage to my motor, once tuned it ran like a raped ape NA, it was really a fun reliable setup.
I figured an aftermarket radiator might help with keeping me cooler and after reading another thread I figured the additional oil from the spacer would too[?]
I currently have a: JWT Pop Charger, Motordyne Plenum spacer, Test pipes, HKS exhaust and the rest is just BS suspension or ICE mods. I figured tunes were really only for when you jumped up to SC or TT engine mods so I never really gave it that much thought. I was seriously considering one after buying the new radiator and oil spacer.
And you're right, whenever I come in or ask any questions I always get the face and the speech about "We only deal with OEM parts once you start putting aftermarket parts on we can't really help you".
Old Nov 15, 2011 | 08:36 AM
  #3735  
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Originally Posted by WYZIWYG
I figured an aftermarket radiator might help with keeping me cooler and after reading another thread I figured the additional oil from the spacer would too[?]
I currently have a: JWT Pop Charger, Motordyne Plenum spacer, Test pipes, HKS exhaust and the rest is just BS suspension or ICE mods. I figured tunes were really only for when you jumped up to SC or TT engine mods so I never really gave it that much thought. I was seriously considering one after buying the new radiator and oil spacer.
And you're right, whenever I come in or ask any questions I always get the face and the speech about "We only deal with OEM parts once you start putting aftermarket parts on we can't really help you".
If you are going to upgrade your radiator, you should also do the thermostat (160F) if you want to cool things down.
Old Nov 15, 2011 | 08:50 AM
  #3736  
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For what you do with the car, you dont need 1 more qt of oil. Its a waste of money. Instead of $$$$ on a radiator if you are so set on it, do a lower temp thermostat for cheap.

That's a good set of bolt ons, its time for a tune to bring it all together!

A good tune after sometime without it, is like a slap in the face. You will wish you had done it sooner.

Last edited by Alberto; Nov 15, 2011 at 08:51 AM.
Old Nov 15, 2011 | 08:53 AM
  #3737  
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Originally Posted by Alberto
For what you do with the car, you dont need 1 more qt of oil. Its a waste of money. Instead of $$$$ on a radiator if you are so set on it, do a lower temp thermostat for cheap.

That's a good set of bolt ons, its time for a tune to bring it all together!
A good tune after sometime without it, is like a slap in the face. You will wish you had done it sooner.


you should race shin also? the clash of the titans and battle of the automatic Z's?
Old Nov 15, 2011 | 09:29 AM
  #3738  
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After he tunes that car it shouldnt be close, especially up top.

Right now it may be slower than stock the tune is so off lol
Old Nov 15, 2011 | 09:37 AM
  #3739  
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http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/st...ct2011_PARTNER

OMG!!! I want one!!
Old Nov 15, 2011 | 09:48 AM
  #3740  
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BTW..finances are looking in order, so I'm planning on getting some type of work (mods) going on the Z in February as opposed to getting a new car.



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