ST800 Remote Start Help$$$
#1
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ST800 Remote Start Help$$$
does any1 here know how to install alarm/remote start on the z? i want to install it but don't wanna mass things up so if any1 can help me ill buy some beer and some cash lol
#2
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i can draw a diagram from you and it should work. let me know if you have clutch or automatic.
with automatic you will need 1 5 pin relay and with manual you need 2 5 pin relays.
#4
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damn bro! u need to take the aftermarket alarm system off first. i am not sure about that but i think that is what u have to do. ST800 has it owns alarm with shock sensor. I will post the diagram here later.. u need to buy these 5 pin relays first though. U got my from a local stereo shop for 10 dollars! napa, pepboys, autozone do not have it. http://cgi.ebay.com/5Pcs-5-pin-12V-D...item2eb6f922bd
u only need two relay for your manual! automatic only need one!
u only need two relay for your manual! automatic only need one!
#5
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here is a diagram that i drew for my. Thanks to a guy on ebay for helping me out. he sold st800 system too and he is a distributor from dw-tech too. Name ebay user name : jeffersontruong. if you want discount contact him.
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#6
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i will do a more clear write up this weekend... i am busied studying so this is what i can post.
remember to open the bypass module and place the transponder inside the module. i thought i was suppose to tape it to the outside but u actually need to open the bypass module.
remember to open the bypass module and place the transponder inside the module. i thought i was suppose to tape it to the outside but u actually need to open the bypass module.
Last edited by sssmasss; 08-08-2011 at 09:00 PM.
#7
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i forgot.. if you got a manual then u need to use the red wire from the cn11 connector instead of orange. the red wire need to be connected to the hand brake wire. do not cut this wire. just connect your red wire to the metal connector. DO NOT cut the handbrake wire!!!
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#12
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I was able to install the ST800 using the diagram that sssmasss posted above. It's pretty straight forward once you get past the inconsistent translations in the install/user manuals. But I've done alarm and audio installs before so if you're a complete noob it might be a little challenging. Below are a few quick tips from my install.
-To clear up any confusion about the relay layout for the clutch in the diagram above, it is correct. I can push button and remote start my Z without stepping on the clutch.
-The ignition harness supplied with the unit will not plug into the ignition switch without modification. I simply trimmed off the outer plastic so that it would fit. You'll know what I mean when you try to plug it in. I decided to cut it since it already had the taps and I didn't want to cut my factory harness.
-The key insertion wire on CN2 was Black on my unit vs black/green as noted in the diagram above and in the install manual.
-I connected the Red parking detection wire on CN11 to the Park/neutral position (PNP) switch located at the ECU under the passenger side dash instead of the parking brake since it's a lot safer. This way the car will not start unless it's in neutral (unless, of course, if the PNP switch goes bad.)
-I tapped both door switches and the trunk and ran 3 Amp diodes inline of each connection with the stripe facing towards the Body Control Module since they all run to the Grey door detection wire on CN11. With these connections the system will provide an audible beep to let you know that a door or the trunk is open before setting the alarm. The unit has an optional trunk detection wire, but it appears to only prevent the car from remote starting if the trunk is open.
-I connected the Sky Blue L Terminal wire to one of the fuel injectors at the ECU.
-The Purple warming-up detection wire is only needed for diesel vehicles to let the ST800 know if the glow plugs are hot before trying to start. So I left this wire disconnected.
-I recommend installing the LF antenna (the one that detects the smart key) up high and near the center of the vehicle. I initially installed mine under the body panel just below the driver side seat belt mount (about parallel to the door handle). It worked fine when approaching from the driver side but on the passenger side I needed to basically walk up to the door and wait a second for it to unlock. Also, while pumping gas the car kept arm/dis-arming. I remounted the LF antenna on the outside of the strut bar towards the center of the car and it works great in that position. The doors will lock/unlock from about 4-5 ft away in all directions.
-Definitely apply the digital key sticker to the glass first and then apply the unit. I didn't and mine fell off after a few hours. Luckily there were 2 stickers in the box.
As an aside, I took both seats out to have more room during the install. This caused the dreaded flashing airbag light once the car was started. I had planned to do the air bag reset before installing the push button over the ignition cylinder but forget. So I did the procedure with the push button and it worked just as if I used the key
-To clear up any confusion about the relay layout for the clutch in the diagram above, it is correct. I can push button and remote start my Z without stepping on the clutch.
-The ignition harness supplied with the unit will not plug into the ignition switch without modification. I simply trimmed off the outer plastic so that it would fit. You'll know what I mean when you try to plug it in. I decided to cut it since it already had the taps and I didn't want to cut my factory harness.
-The key insertion wire on CN2 was Black on my unit vs black/green as noted in the diagram above and in the install manual.
-I connected the Red parking detection wire on CN11 to the Park/neutral position (PNP) switch located at the ECU under the passenger side dash instead of the parking brake since it's a lot safer. This way the car will not start unless it's in neutral (unless, of course, if the PNP switch goes bad.)
-I tapped both door switches and the trunk and ran 3 Amp diodes inline of each connection with the stripe facing towards the Body Control Module since they all run to the Grey door detection wire on CN11. With these connections the system will provide an audible beep to let you know that a door or the trunk is open before setting the alarm. The unit has an optional trunk detection wire, but it appears to only prevent the car from remote starting if the trunk is open.
-I connected the Sky Blue L Terminal wire to one of the fuel injectors at the ECU.
-The Purple warming-up detection wire is only needed for diesel vehicles to let the ST800 know if the glow plugs are hot before trying to start. So I left this wire disconnected.
-I recommend installing the LF antenna (the one that detects the smart key) up high and near the center of the vehicle. I initially installed mine under the body panel just below the driver side seat belt mount (about parallel to the door handle). It worked fine when approaching from the driver side but on the passenger side I needed to basically walk up to the door and wait a second for it to unlock. Also, while pumping gas the car kept arm/dis-arming. I remounted the LF antenna on the outside of the strut bar towards the center of the car and it works great in that position. The doors will lock/unlock from about 4-5 ft away in all directions.
-Definitely apply the digital key sticker to the glass first and then apply the unit. I didn't and mine fell off after a few hours. Luckily there were 2 stickers in the box.
As an aside, I took both seats out to have more room during the install. This caused the dreaded flashing airbag light once the car was started. I had planned to do the air bag reset before installing the push button over the ignition cylinder but forget. So I did the procedure with the push button and it worked just as if I used the key
Last edited by 350Z_Redline; 08-21-2011 at 03:00 PM. Reason: Added additional install tips
#15
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Doors closed
1 hit 1 1 1 1 and ENT on your digital key pad
2 hit B A C and ENT
3 press the lock sign on your remote controller and release quickly
4 press and hold the lock sign on your remote controller
5 while holding the lock sign hit ENT the melody or siren should go off.
6 release the remote controller and wait like 30 seconds
the melody play!!!! u registered your remote!!!
i am still thinking of doing the diy for people but this is too much right now!!! my car battery keep draining. i need to find a way to fix this. i dont want to give wrong diy instructions and have your battery drain too.
#16
Giving up
Followed all the directions in your diagram. Got the car to start once using the push to start (chipped key in the ignition set to ACC) for some reason the key taped to the bypass wouldnt let the car turnover (possibly bad antenna wiring)
After I parked the car, turned it off and tried swapping keys the car wouldnt start again. Then the weirdest thing happened. The battery died on me. It was pretty quick. I tried to do it one more time after compression starting and the car wouldnt stop trying to start itself.
I give up at this point as I started hearing ticking coming from my engine. Ill be heading in to cartoys tomorrow. Theres 300 down the drain.
After I parked the car, turned it off and tried swapping keys the car wouldnt start again. Then the weirdest thing happened. The battery died on me. It was pretty quick. I tried to do it one more time after compression starting and the car wouldnt stop trying to start itself.
I give up at this point as I started hearing ticking coming from my engine. Ill be heading in to cartoys tomorrow. Theres 300 down the drain.
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Followed all the directions in your diagram. Got the car to start once using the push to start (chipped key in the ignition set to ACC) for some reason the key taped to the bypass wouldnt let the car turnover (possibly bad antenna wiring)
After I parked the car, turned it off and tried swapping keys the car wouldnt start again. Then the weirdest thing happened. The battery died on me. It was pretty quick. I tried to do it one more time after compression starting and the car wouldnt stop trying to start itself.
I give up at this point as I started hearing ticking coming from my engine. Ill be heading in to cartoys tomorrow. Theres 300 down the drain.
After I parked the car, turned it off and tried swapping keys the car wouldnt start again. Then the weirdest thing happened. The battery died on me. It was pretty quick. I tried to do it one more time after compression starting and the car wouldnt stop trying to start itself.
I give up at this point as I started hearing ticking coming from my engine. Ill be heading in to cartoys tomorrow. Theres 300 down the drain.
#18
The key head (transmitter) goes INSIDE the bypass module, not taped to the outside. There are 4 screws that need to be removed then the key head goes inside of the ribbon facing in the direction noted in the installation diagram. Not sure about the other issues you're having. Are you sure that the key position was in ACC (position 2) and not ON or START? The other 2 might cause the battery to drain if left in those positions. Hope you get everything straightened out.
#19
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Hmm I must have misread that portion. Cartoys refused to install it today as its a 6 speed and considered a liability to have remote start. After removing the kit and replacing the wires it looks like the unit ended up killing my starter. The car wont turn over now. Took it to firestone for an electrical test and they confirmed this. I must have wired something incorrectly or I had a bad unit. At this point Im hoping they let me return it.