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Noisy lifters/cups, what about lash caps?

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Old Jan 8, 2015 | 04:17 PM
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Default Noisy lifters/cups, what about lash caps?

With the cups being so hard to find, and $$$$, why couldn't you just buy lash caps that go over the top of the valve stem?

They come in all sizes, thickness, and are waaaay cheaper than the cups. [I did an Ebay search on the cups/lifters, and couldn't find any for the VQ35, or the VQ25 engines, heck I didn't even see them on Z1's website].

Here is to what I'm referring.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...kr=lash%20caps

Last edited by M-train; Jan 8, 2015 at 04:20 PM.
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Old Jan 8, 2015 | 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by M-train
With the cups being so hard to find, and $$$$, why couldn't you just buy lash caps that go over the top of the valve stem?

They come in all sizes, thickness, and are waaaay cheaper than the cups. [I did an Ebay search on the cups/lifters, and couldn't find any for the VQ35, or the VQ25 engines, heck I didn't even see them on Z1's website].

Here is to what I'm referring.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...kr=lash%20caps
Check out supertechperformance.com

They make a lifter that uses lash caps for clearance adjustment for the VQ motor.
To use the Summitracing caps you would have to grind down the inside of the
stock lifters to adjust clearance & the stock lifter has no means of locating the lash cap securely in high RPM situations
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Old Jan 9, 2015 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Nathan
Check out supertechperformance.com

They make a lifter that uses lash caps for clearance adjustment for the VQ motor.
To use the Summitracing caps you would have to grind down the inside of the
stock lifters to adjust clearance & the stock lifter has no means of locating the lash cap securely in high RPM situations
Thanks for the link.

I don't see why you would need to have anything locating the lash caps as they are already located by the top of the valve stem. The cup is holding the lash cap down on the stem just like a rocker arm would.

From what I can see on the thickness, your right you would have to cut the inside of the bucket down, where it meets the valve stem [or, lash cap].
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Old Jan 9, 2015 | 02:57 PM
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On another note, I just found that the HR engines had lighter, coated, followers vs the DE engine.

http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...st-3-Days.aspx

Where the heck can you find these followers? I've looked at Z1, and Ebay, plus a general net search with no results.

Also, I'm not looking to spend $500 for a set of followers [sorry, but sometimes money gets a little tight], so I would just like to buy a stock replacement for the HR engine............thanks in advance guys.
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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 03:18 AM
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Originally Posted by M-train
On another note, I just found that the HR engines had lighter, coated, followers vs the DE engine.

http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...st-3-Days.aspx

Where the heck can you find these followers? I've looked at Z1, and Ebay, plus a general net search with no results.

Also, I'm not looking to spend $500 for a set of followers [sorry, but sometimes money gets a little tight], so I would just like to buy a stock replacement for the HR engine............thanks in advance guys.
look on the marketplace you can find buckets for relatively cheap
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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by thekyledeg
look on the marketplace you can find buckets for relatively cheap
Thanks, the cheapest I have found them was $17 each, so I guess I can live with the clatter.

I can't remember, but I might be wrong about the lash caps fitting on the top of the valve stem, as I don't think the stem comes up above the locks by very much.

On the good side though, I WILL get to pull my #$%#$^%$& engine again since the jig I made to face the valves [Black/Decker valve machine] didn't work, so read that as no compression. FTR, the part for the valve machine that lets it chuck up these tiny stem valves is about $200 which is why I haven't bought it.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by M-train
Thanks, the cheapest I have found them was $17 each, so I guess I can live with the clatter.

I can't remember, but I might be wrong about the lash caps fitting on the top of the valve stem, as I don't think the stem comes up above the locks by very much.

On the good side though, I WILL get to pull my #$%#$^%$& engine again since the jig I made to face the valves [Black/Decker valve machine] didn't work, so read that as no compression. FTR, the part for the valve machine that lets it chuck up these tiny stem valves is about $200 which is why I haven't bought it.
just do it the old way and use a suction cup on a stick like i do lol.
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Old Jan 18, 2015 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by thekyledeg
just do it the old way and use a suction cup on a stick like i do lol.
I actually did that. It really sucked hard [no pun] as I usually just use a drill, and chuck up the valve stem, then its just forward, and reverse on the drill. Does a great job, but these damned engines there isn't any way to get the drill to chuck up to the valve stems.

Of course there is still the possibility that timing is off. I won't know until I get the engine back out.
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 04:55 AM
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Originally Posted by M-train
I actually did that. It really sucked hard [no pun] as I usually just use a drill, and chuck up the valve stem, then its just forward, and reverse on the drill. Does a great job, but these damned engines there isn't any way to get the drill to chuck up to the valve stems.

Of course there is still the possibility that timing is off. I won't know until I get the engine back out.
you can chuck them in a drill, just find some fuel line or vaccum tube that slips over the valve stem tightly and then chuck the other end in the drill and go ham.
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Old Feb 3, 2015 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by thekyledeg
you can chuck them in a drill, just find some fuel line or vaccum tube that slips over the valve stem tightly and then chuck the other end in the drill and go ham.
Hey, you might have something there.

I tried an extension I have for my drill, but I could tighten the allen head screws in said extension.

I didn't think about trying a vacuum line, but that might work using light back pressure with the drill. Heck, it would have to be better than hand lapping, IMO>
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