Nismo TT eating Porsche sandwiches
06-12-2011, 06:47 PM
#22
Registered User
holy crap that thing killed those porsches in a line. dont those 911s turbos have like 420hp? you ran it hard for 25 mins? does the cooling system work that well for those turbos?
um and you should be outdriving that suspension with that power and those speeds (my car on stock sh!# gets sooo bent outa shape in canyons all four tires sliding, rear end always over the lines, i havent driven a nismo but i bet it still has mad rear hop and bumpsteer. one word for any stock suspension when you actually push the car 'sketchy'.
on a side note how did you spend 10gs on fi and not a dollar into suspension lol baxaxwardz but hey it definitely worx
um and you should be outdriving that suspension with that power and those speeds (my car on stock sh!# gets sooo bent outa shape in canyons all four tires sliding, rear end always over the lines, i havent driven a nismo but i bet it still has mad rear hop and bumpsteer. one word for any stock suspension when you actually push the car 'sketchy'.
on a side note how did you spend 10gs on fi and not a dollar into suspension lol baxaxwardz but hey it definitely worx
06-12-2011, 07:34 PM
#26
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Florence, KY
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nice driving Ryan.
1. Hoosier A6s are for Autcross. R6s are for the road course. I have seen some people use A6s for the track, but usually just for qualifying for races or time trials as they heat cycle out REALLY fast. I don't think you would get more than 2 days from them before they are toast. Hoosier R6s will only last 2-3 weekends. You are better off running Nitto NT01 or Toyo R666s for track days. Sure the Hoosiers are a bit faster, but they are less forgiving and a R-Comp (Nitto or R888) won't heat cycle and are good until they cord. You should be able to run them a whole season. If you trailer your car to the track and have $$$ to burn than Hoosier R6s are the shiznat. HOWEVER, as you know I am back to street tires after two season on Nitto NT01s and my lap times are only off by a second as the Dunlop Z1 Star Spec, Yomamma AD08 and Bridgestone RE11s are pretty damn close to a R-Comp while lasting longer and still being able to drive home in the rain. For me, it is well worth the compromise as I'm still running down 90% of the Porsches out there even with my little old 290hp.
2. Brake Pads. If they make a pad for your caliper.... Performance Friction PFC01 or 06s. That is what was on the front the NSX and I have NEVER seen any fade. Another good choice is Hawk DTC70 or 60s. Carbotech XP10 front and XP8 rear would also be a good choice. I have run XP12/XP10 and it was unnecessary for 25 min HPDE sessions. I went back to XP10/XP8 and it was plenty, as well as cheaper, no squeal and lasted longer.
3. As I said before, A LOT of time and testing went into designing that setup by NISMO, by some very smart engineers who know cars much better than you or I. The suspension is VERY well balanced. DON'T **** WITH IT until you can out drive the car and can run 10 laps in a row all with in 0.10 sec of each other. In other words, you are driving the car at 95%+. They designed the dampers, spring rates and sway bars all to work with each other as a system. Yes, adding bigger sway bars will make it corner flatter and give you more confidence, but some body roll is not a bad thing as it is going to transfer weight to the outside tire that needs it as it is producing the grip. People think their car is faster with big sways, but it is only because they are more confident driving it. Sways can actually reduce overall grip because they cause the inside tire to lift. Last year I was running 1000 lb front / 800 lb rear springs and the car had ZERO roll.... I went back to a 600/500 which gives it a little roll and is actually faster lap times. Just remember that springs, dampers, sways, alignment all work together as a system to keep that tire contact patch on the road. Too much spring or bar and their won't be enough weight transfer or every little bump in the road will cause the tire to skip over the road. It's a black science that requires a lot of testing and track time. Which goes back to what I was saying.... the NISMO is like the NSX Type R, it was not a heavily compromised setup for the street like the regular 350 or NSX... it was tested and optomized for the track while at the same time being "streetable".
4. Before screwing with the suspension, your first (and cheapest) mod would be to get a good "track alignment". Max out the front and rear camber. Toe will wear the inside of the tire during street driving more than camber. If your car is a daily driver and you only do 1-2 HPDEs a year than I would say just put it at the most neg camber and still stay with the OEM specs. ie specs usually provide a range.... something like -0.30 to -0.60. In which case go with largest neg and still be in that range (-0.60). Otherwise MAX IT OUT. No idea what you can get on that car but it should be -1.2 or maybe a little more. On street tires I run -2.0 in the front and -2.8 deg on the NSX. With R-Comps, I run -2.8 front and -3.2 rear. I have camber bushing on the front of the NSX (otherwise I am limited to -1.5 with OEM). R-Comps and Hoosiers LOVE a lot of camber.
1. Hoosier A6s are for Autcross. R6s are for the road course. I have seen some people use A6s for the track, but usually just for qualifying for races or time trials as they heat cycle out REALLY fast. I don't think you would get more than 2 days from them before they are toast. Hoosier R6s will only last 2-3 weekends. You are better off running Nitto NT01 or Toyo R666s for track days. Sure the Hoosiers are a bit faster, but they are less forgiving and a R-Comp (Nitto or R888) won't heat cycle and are good until they cord. You should be able to run them a whole season. If you trailer your car to the track and have $$$ to burn than Hoosier R6s are the shiznat. HOWEVER, as you know I am back to street tires after two season on Nitto NT01s and my lap times are only off by a second as the Dunlop Z1 Star Spec, Yomamma AD08 and Bridgestone RE11s are pretty damn close to a R-Comp while lasting longer and still being able to drive home in the rain. For me, it is well worth the compromise as I'm still running down 90% of the Porsches out there even with my little old 290hp.
2. Brake Pads. If they make a pad for your caliper.... Performance Friction PFC01 or 06s. That is what was on the front the NSX and I have NEVER seen any fade. Another good choice is Hawk DTC70 or 60s. Carbotech XP10 front and XP8 rear would also be a good choice. I have run XP12/XP10 and it was unnecessary for 25 min HPDE sessions. I went back to XP10/XP8 and it was plenty, as well as cheaper, no squeal and lasted longer.
3. As I said before, A LOT of time and testing went into designing that setup by NISMO, by some very smart engineers who know cars much better than you or I. The suspension is VERY well balanced. DON'T **** WITH IT until you can out drive the car and can run 10 laps in a row all with in 0.10 sec of each other. In other words, you are driving the car at 95%+. They designed the dampers, spring rates and sway bars all to work with each other as a system. Yes, adding bigger sway bars will make it corner flatter and give you more confidence, but some body roll is not a bad thing as it is going to transfer weight to the outside tire that needs it as it is producing the grip. People think their car is faster with big sways, but it is only because they are more confident driving it. Sways can actually reduce overall grip because they cause the inside tire to lift. Last year I was running 1000 lb front / 800 lb rear springs and the car had ZERO roll.... I went back to a 600/500 which gives it a little roll and is actually faster lap times. Just remember that springs, dampers, sways, alignment all work together as a system to keep that tire contact patch on the road. Too much spring or bar and their won't be enough weight transfer or every little bump in the road will cause the tire to skip over the road. It's a black science that requires a lot of testing and track time. Which goes back to what I was saying.... the NISMO is like the NSX Type R, it was not a heavily compromised setup for the street like the regular 350 or NSX... it was tested and optomized for the track while at the same time being "streetable".
4. Before screwing with the suspension, your first (and cheapest) mod would be to get a good "track alignment". Max out the front and rear camber. Toe will wear the inside of the tire during street driving more than camber. If your car is a daily driver and you only do 1-2 HPDEs a year than I would say just put it at the most neg camber and still stay with the OEM specs. ie specs usually provide a range.... something like -0.30 to -0.60. In which case go with largest neg and still be in that range (-0.60). Otherwise MAX IT OUT. No idea what you can get on that car but it should be -1.2 or maybe a little more. On street tires I run -2.0 in the front and -2.8 deg on the NSX. With R-Comps, I run -2.8 front and -3.2 rear. I have camber bushing on the front of the NSX (otherwise I am limited to -1.5 with OEM). R-Comps and Hoosiers LOVE a lot of camber.
Last edited by CL65 Captain; 06-14-2011 at 05:08 AM.
06-12-2011, 07:37 PM
#27
lol thanks for the props guys! It still has the stock block also. I was actually pretty surprised I didn't have any oil cooling issues for the 25min on the track with no oil cooler (I should probably get one of those). I was really looking forward to this event because I wanted a good comparison of my car/driving skills against some of these 911 turbos, so i'm pretty happy with the Z and I know there's tons of room for improvements with my driving and the car itself. I absolutely love these Greddy 20G's because I would go into the corners feathering the throttle and didn't have to worry about dealing with any lag or an all of a sudden huge rush of boost. Because of the open dumps I had a few guys tell me I scared the crap out of them when I would go by lol. Thanks for the helpful advice and I hope to keep pushing the Nismo to a true road track car and run down some more super cars
06-12-2011, 09:53 PM
#29
Oh yeah one thing I forgot to mention was that the Walbro 255lph fuel pump was failing to deliver the fuel going down the front long straight under WOT and I was at a 1/4 tank. I guess what little fuel that was in the tank was being pushed all the to the back so the pump couldn't get to it. I didn't want to risk leaning out the engine too much so I decided to call it a day.
06-12-2011, 10:00 PM
#30
******
iTrader: (1)
Nice!
06-13-2011, 03:33 AM
#32
Professional
iTrader: (58)
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern NJ / Vacation on MARS
Posts: 1,876
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Lol@ eatin Porsche sammiches!
Nice vid bro, that go pro is sweet.... Good driving , looks like fun..... Ill be down in July I think.. I'd like to check out that 1320!
Ray
Nice vid bro, that go pro is sweet.... Good driving , looks like fun..... Ill be down in July I think.. I'd like to check out that 1320!
Ray
06-13-2011, 04:15 AM
#33
Registered User
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Houston,TX
Posts: 1,395
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
lol thanks for the props guys! It still has the stock block also. I was actually pretty surprised I didn't have any oil cooling issues for the 25min on the track with no oil cooler (I should probably get one of those). I was really looking forward to this event because I wanted a good comparison of my car/driving skills against some of these 911 turbos, so i'm pretty happy with the Z and I know there's tons of room for improvements with my driving and the car itself. I absolutely love these Greddy 20G's because I would go into the corners feathering the throttle and didn't have to worry about dealing with any lag or an all of a sudden huge rush of boost. Because of the open dumps I had a few guys tell me I scared the crap out of them when I would go by lol. Thanks for the helpful advice and I hope to keep pushing the Nismo to a true road track car and run down some more super cars
if you push ~450 to the wheels you should eat 911 turbos for breakfast every day... they are 4wd setup for lawyers with a good amount of understeer dialed in and about ~350 to 400 the wheels (depends on model).
you NEED a proper differential, camber arms for the front and proper brake pads... hawk hp+ on a 450+ whp car is looking for trouble... as soon as you start pushing for real they'll fail on you.... go DTC70, carbotech XP12 or 14 or something like that...
get also titanium shims for the brakes to don't cook your dust cover and gaskets...
06-13-2011, 07:37 AM
#36
Hardest Setting
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: MexiCali dodging potholes
Posts: 13,406
Received 130 Likes
on
102 Posts
Op what was the temp/humidty that day? How many laps dis you run at a time? Lots of variables on what cool is!
@Ataru - you need to start a thread/log of all you epic track times. It's great insight into a track car tracked! Your recommendation on many parts hold weight and would give many of us something to gauge on. From your videos I push my Z just as hard for fraction the time! Your making this to buy list longer....
MOAR
@Ataru - you need to start a thread/log of all you epic track times. It's great insight into a track car tracked! Your recommendation on many parts hold weight and would give many of us something to gauge on. From your videos I push my Z just as hard for fraction the time! Your making this to buy list longer....
MOAR
06-13-2011, 08:06 AM
#39
Registered User
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 343
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oh quick question - I am assuming that was a GoPro camera? Were you using the suction cup mount on your roof? Because that is a very stable video given the situation 
06-13-2011, 08:17 AM
#40
I agree with aturu074, invest in an oil cooler, especially if one wasn't installed with your TT kit? 
I would like to pickup a GTM 25 or 34 row kit. If your tracking or boosted this is a must have IMO.
Sure the stock spring rates on the Nismo suspension are good, but they will never compare to fully adjustable dampening of coilovers. I'm sure companies suck as HKS have put a lot more R&D and track time into their products then Nismo.
All the Nismo has compared to a stock Z is additional chassis welds, yamaha/nismo dampers, Strut bars and stiffer spring rates. The sways aren't any better then those found on a stock Z. They are all the same. It's not like the car came with Nismo adjustable sway bars.
People should always familiarize themselves with the platform and be able to out drive the car before modding! Is this the OP's first Z? Or first experience out on the track? Some how I don't think so... If so, Kudos to you man. Nice job/performance.
Zim
I would like to pickup a GTM 25 or 34 row kit. If your tracking or boosted this is a must have IMO.
Sure the stock spring rates on the Nismo suspension are good, but they will never compare to fully adjustable dampening of coilovers. I'm sure companies suck as HKS have put a lot more R&D and track time into their products then Nismo.
All the Nismo has compared to a stock Z is additional chassis welds, yamaha/nismo dampers, Strut bars and stiffer spring rates. The sways aren't any better then those found on a stock Z. They are all the same. It's not like the car came with Nismo adjustable sway bars.
People should always familiarize themselves with the platform and be able to out drive the car before modding! Is this the OP's first Z? Or first experience out on the track?
Some how I don't think so... If so, Kudos to you man. Nice job/performance.Zim
Last edited by Lakeside; 06-13-2011 at 09:00 AM.