6MTG354ME

iTrader: (5)

I have a 04 Non Rev-Up.
List of mods here... http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3073579

Recently purchased

• NX Wet kit
• NX Gen X 2 pack (Bottle Warmer, Purge Valve, Nitrous gauge, Fuel Cut Off Switch, Blowdown, etc)
• NX Bottle Opener
• Dynotune Digital Nitrous Gauge
• Dynotune Command Center
• 1 Step Colder NGK Plugs
• G35 Fuel Tap Adapter

Planning to do 100 shot.
Only thing left to buy is the Window Switch & TPS.

1. On the non-revup on a 100shot. 3k-6300RPM the range of choice?
2. Are the majority of people locking out 1st gear?
3. I've heard reliability problems with the dynotune window/TPS, is the maximizer 2 worth investing in?

I plan to have it tuned with OSIRIS. But will prob have to play with 100 shot jet sizing and maybe go with little bit larger fuel jet and tune off that until I can get it tuned with the osiris. Thanks for everyones advice on what they're running and what's working.

garym

iTrader: (5)

I'd recommend starting the nitrous at 3500 rpms.
I'm running 3500-6800 with rev limiter set at 7200 (UTEC).
Not only is it safer, but less chance of wheel spin if you spray in first.
100 shot should be fine to spray in first, but 125 or 150 you will need to do a first gear lockout, or you'll just spin and loose traction.
I'm setup with a 150 shot now using ZEX for everything except an NX bottle opener and the NX Switch panel.
I just haven't got to the track yet to see how it does.
No time; In the middle of a house remodel and addition.

2boosted4u

iTrader: (4)

pretty sure the zex 350 kit comes with the tps... not sure tho im intrested in your answers also good luck with build!

garym

iTrader: (5)

Yes it does come with the TPS.
LOL!
Spraying safe is smarter then just spraying.
I've been drag racing for over 24 years, including working on a pit crew for a top fuel dragster.
I may not have played with nitrous much in the past, but I been learning the ins and outs from some of the best in the northwest.
And I'd take their advice and pass it along before I'd take some that has been given in any forums.
The guy that helped me build my NA 10-second, full bodied, street driven '68 Chevelle SS396 (built in 1992 and still running strong) is one of the top engine builders in the NW, and has taught me a few things about nitrous.
John and his son Keith are a wealth of information.
Here's a pic of their 8-second bottle fed opel.

http://www.draglist.com/Pictures/POD...POD-051502.htm

My brother and I are currently building a 1994 Supra TT that will be over 800hp.
And we're taking every precaution to make sure the motor lives awhile.

2boosted4u

iTrader: (4)

that thing is SICK
<= i bet the driver looks like this when goin down the track lol

6MTG354ME

iTrader: (5)

Do you guys know if this nitrous controller would work?
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/octaneseries.htm

Looks like it has window switch to set RPM Range, can connect into my wideband 02 for cutoff, wire into our TPS for full throttle engagement, lock out first gear, and display Fuel, Oil or nitrous pressure. I can set everything using the gauge and wouldnt need to pull out laptop or palm to adjust. Would have triple gauge pod with Dynotune Nitrous Control Center, Digital Dynotune Pressure gauge, and this gauge as well.

And is your 6800RPM limit on the rev up engine?

3hree5ive0ero

iTrader: (95)

- Start spraying nitrous around 3500rpm and shut off the solenoids a few hundred off the redline. So for non-rev ups, shut it off around 6300rpm. For revups, 6700rpm.

- You don't have to lock out your first gear, but in certain cases, it is better to wait until 2nd gear. For a hundred shot, you don't have to, but it'll prevent unnecessary wheelspin from the tq boost. But then again, you don't feel the tq boost until 2nd. It's dependent on you, but to be on the safer side, it may behoove you to skip the 1st gear.

- What reliability problems did you hear about Dynotune window switch/tps? I think it's fine and many people seem to be satisfied. I don't think a maximizer is necessary.

- Those guages/controllers have been talked about in a past a few times, but nobody actually tried them out so none of us can tell you anything worthwhile except speculations. I assume they'll work fine. They sure are pretty and I'd love to get a firsthand review on those guages/controllers. You can be the first.

6MTG354ME

iTrader: (5)

I've heard stuff on the dynotune where it works for a week, then the nitrous wouldnt work, and it was becuase the dynotune wasnt turning on the Solenoids, couple people had to send back for warranty replacement. And that they were touchy about the powersource and groud used. Could have just been a small percentage.

The NX guage is super clean, and would do everything I needed. I want to do the whole setup super clean and do it right for reliability and safety. I'm sure noone has used the gauges for a reason. The price is high!

Going to do some more research and let you guys know.

garym

iTrader: (5)

I'm running a 2006 350Z with 5-AT.

3hree5ive0ero is correct about maximum rpm's for a normal nitrous setup.

My tuner did tests at different max rpm's and shift points on my Z, and decided the 6800 shut off and the 7100 rev limit was the best for my setup. He says the Z motor can take it.
The downside is that it has to be done in manual shift mode, or it will auto-shift while the nitrous is still engaged.

It was on a 75 shot with the first setup and I liked it.
But now I'm starting to second guess myself, and with this 150 shot for the track, I may want to bump it down to 6500 for the nitrous and 6800 for the rev limiter.
I may try a run it the way it is, and then once with the changes and see what happens. The UTEC is tuned up to the higher rpms, so it won't cause any issues to lower them.