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Nitrous... Z best friend!!!

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Old Nov 24, 2003 | 06:40 AM
  #41  
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So you need a lot of fuel (injectors map) to adjust the mix with cams? this cams are more agressive than the Nismos...rigth?
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Old Nov 24, 2003 | 09:11 AM
  #42  
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What causes solenoids to fail? Is it just wear and tear? Do they have a specific life span? Is there any way to check them routinely?
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Old Nov 24, 2003 | 01:16 PM
  #43  
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mjedens:

I read your Tomei 268 Post... I'm more inform know ...Thanks!
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Old Nov 24, 2003 | 04:49 PM
  #44  
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Is'nt that what the fuel pressure safty switch is for?
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Old Nov 24, 2003 | 06:52 PM
  #45  
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thats what we're trying to figure out. im sure overuse or keeping the seleniod in the open position for a long time hurts it. but as for anything else, i have no idea. i know NX has a lifetime warranty on their selenids with getting stuck open, or closed. but the only thing they dont cover is the seleniod burning.

as for the fuel pressure safety switch...its just for that. i would only shut the system down if there's a big drop in fuel pressure which can damage ur engine. but it still doesnt protect against a fuel seleniod not opening, because in that case pressure would stay the same, and the n2o seleniod would still open.


i was just thinking about something. isnt out car listed at 14.2 volts? if we're too hook up the seleniods in a series circuit, how much power loss can there possibly be? lets say it knocks off 2.2 volts from fuel to n2o, it would still be plenty for the n2o seleniod to work. power drain would be bigger if lets say its on a stand alone power source, and no power is being constantly fed into the system (alternator). but wouldnt the alternater be picking up some of the slack?

i dont know...imma have to run some testing there.
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Old Nov 24, 2003 | 07:20 PM
  #46  
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Ahh I see what your saying now,that definatly whold not be good,but I had a nx system on my celica for 2 1/2 years and never had a problem.Not to say that it could'nt happen but there products are pretty good.
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Old Nov 24, 2003 | 08:14 PM
  #47  
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i had a 2000 celica before i got my Z. good memories with that car. slow...but still a nice car.
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Old Nov 24, 2003 | 09:35 PM
  #48  
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Originally posted by MySunset350Z
i was just thinking about something. isnt out car listed at 14.2 volts? if we're too hook up the seleniods in a series circuit, how much power loss can there possibly be? lets say it knocks off 2.2 volts from fuel to n2o, it would still be plenty for the n2o seleniod to work. power drain would be bigger if lets say its on a stand alone power source, and no power is being constantly fed into the system (alternator). but wouldnt the alternater be picking up some of the slack?
s
i dont know...imma have to run some testing there.
Yeah you can give it a try and see! Basically you are limited here by Ohm's law, V=IR... so having them in series (adding resistance to the circuit) will decrease the current significantly, and each only gets a partial piece of the 14.2 volts. Worth a test though.
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Old Dec 30, 2003 | 08:36 PM
  #49  
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Originally posted by Darin
I agree SOMETHING should be done in regards to a safety measure, as having a fuel solenoid fail with no safeguard is unacceptable. I'm not sure wiring in series would work because this now acts as a voltage divider, i.e the 2nd (nitrous) solenoid will not see 12 volts because of the voltage drop across the fuel solenoid "upstream", so it may not be able to open at all. And of course we're assuming when a solenoid goes bad or is stuck closed, the circuit is open - this may not be the case, as I know a friend of mine had a solenoid burn that wouldn't open and it actually was more the opposite and had a short inside.

One possible way to tell us is feedback from the O2 sensors. Have a voltage trigger so that the nitrous solenoid only activates when O2 output is above a certain 'rich' level we set. The moment it goes lean the solenoid closes. Assuming it isn't already too late after that fraction of a second.

There is an A/F switch that can turn off the nitrous if you are too rick or lean. check out dynotune.org.
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Old Dec 30, 2003 | 09:48 PM
  #50  
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it would be too late because it senses a/f after the combustion occurs. it would be too late. anyone want to add to that?
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Old Dec 30, 2003 | 09:51 PM
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Hey, thats actually a pretty cool device. Have you or anyone you know used this before belerin? Sounds interesting.

Edit after reading post sunset's post:

Actually, thats a good point, sunset. It does sense it after combustion, but without a device like this, wouldn't the system keep spraying even after runnin lean? So it may not be perfect, but still a good precaution. I'm not sure if there are better ones.

Last edited by cyberz350; Dec 30, 2003 at 10:00 PM.
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Old Dec 30, 2003 | 10:06 PM
  #52  
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Originally posted by MySunset350Z
it would be too late because it senses a/f after the combustion occurs. it would be too late. anyone want to add to that?
according to this, what would be the point of monitoring AF at all outside of dyno tuning?
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Old Dec 31, 2003 | 05:16 AM
  #53  
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Originally posted by FLY BY Z
according to this, what would be the point of monitoring AF at all outside of dyno tuning?
Before i bought the switch, i asked the same question about the after combustion thing. They told me with race engines that rev so high and fast, the switch probably wounldn't help much, but with street cars, it has a micro second switch over that will detect when the car starts going lean and shut off the nitrous. if it goes instant lean, for example, hitting rev limiter, it has been shown to stop serious damage. Weekend racer drag bikes and cars have had major success with this unit. Still, a MSD window switch would probably be good to so you can shut the nitrous off before you hit redline.As the other person was saying, it may not be perfect, but its another layer of protection.
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Old Dec 31, 2003 | 05:28 AM
  #54  
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I meant in general not just in a NO2 application.
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Old Dec 31, 2003 | 05:36 AM
  #55  
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Originally posted by belerin
Before i bought the switch, i asked the same question about the after combustion thing. They told me with race engines that rev so high and fast, the switch probably wounldn't help much, but with street cars, it has a micro second switch over that will detect when the car starts going lean and shut off the nitrous. if it goes instant lean, for example, hitting rev limiter, it has been shown to stop serious damage. Weekend racer drag bikes and cars have had major success with this unit. Still, a MSD window switch would probably be good to so you can shut the nitrous off before you hit redline.As the other person was saying, it may not be perfect, but its another layer of protection.
I agree.
Going lean is not the end, running lean is the end.
I'm sure you could set it to cut the nitrous at the end of the ideal, just before lean. Stoichemetric?

Chris Ressler
PasSport Infiniti, Quality control manager
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Old Dec 31, 2003 | 09:13 AM
  #56  
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Isn't using o2 readings a debated subject as to gauging your A/F ratio? I've heard that o2's can vary from car to car and can't be reliable. Is there any truth to this? What do they use to check your A/F at the dyno?

Also, it looks like that same company is working on a wideband A/F gauge that for around 400, why is this so expensive and how is this different from the other product.

Lastly, would it be possible to use a switch like this with RPM switch, like MSD's?

Last edited by cyberz350; Dec 31, 2003 at 09:22 AM.
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Old Dec 31, 2003 | 01:36 PM
  #57  
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the rpm window switch doesnt solve the whole problem. it just keeps you from spraying in case you bounce off the rev limiter, by allowing nitrous to be on in a ceratin rpm "window" say 2000-6000rpms would be an example. anything before 2k or after 6k and it would be off. that only solves 1 problem which is going lean do to fuel cut off when you bounce off the rev limiter. its really not all that important IMO.

has anyone acutally used any of these aftermarket a/f sensors and would like to let us know how good/accurate they are?

and as for when you dyno, they put a sensor in your exhuast pipe i believe to test for a/f.
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Old Jan 18, 2004 | 04:11 PM
  #58  
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i just got my 350z this summer and i would like to no if anny off u have experianced any engine damage from using nos.
also if there are any kits u could recomend to me it would me help full because i was thinking of going forced in duction but it is to expencive. thanks
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Old Jan 18, 2004 | 04:21 PM
  #59  
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Originally posted by 350z-speed
i just got my 350z this summer and i would like to no if anny off u have experianced any engine damage from using nos.
also if there are any kits u could recomend to me it would me help full because i was thinking of going forced in duction but it is to expencive. thanks
If you take a couple minutes and read what is in the nitrous forum you will find out what you are looking for. That is why these forums exist. So people can read them. Of course, if you read and search around and can't find the answer you should ask. Your answer is on Page 1 about 10 times. You can damage your motor, transmission, and almost any part of your powertrain simply by driving your car. You can damage it with NO2 or with a turbo or supercharger. If you are excessive with anything you do the risk increases. If you shoot 300 HP of NO2 into the motor you will probably blow it up. If you use a 50 shot then you will probably be ok. Everything in between is what people spend their time talking about on this forum. Read it.
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Old Jan 18, 2004 | 06:00 PM
  #60  
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Any significant power increase will shorten the life of the engine. If you're only keeping it a year or two it may not matter but if you're going over 100k the damage will be done.
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