or CS3 and Aperture, soo yea thats a wrap. also DPP sucks, a better write up would have been for CS3/2; lock it up

 

All of these programs being thrown around. How about a list of ALL the programs you use to edit your photos. Someone start one kind of like a group buy list and each person can add on.

 

OK, let me make this clear.

This write-up was not meant for those with ample experience with POST PROCESSING. I know some of you are good and use more powerful software... all the power to you.

This write-up was written because there are alot of new Canon Digital Rebel (XT/XTi/350D/400D) users out there. It is painfully obvious that many out there wasn't getting the most out of their shots. It seems to me that these new DSLR owners are oblivious that DPP is bundled, and that it is powerful software for what it is- bundled, free software.

There are alot of "how-to's" for other image editors written out there, just google it. But alas, we live in an age of laziness. Getting this information out and visually showing Z owners what can be done was my objective. Hopefully, it will encourage and produce better pictures here. Most importantly, I hope it will help some of the new users.

Again, DPP IS FREE!!! IT COMES BUNDLED WITH YOUR CANON DSLR!!! CS3 is $600+. Lightroom and Aperture are $300.

So if you own a Digital Rebel or even the Dxx series and don't have an image editor, there is no reason why you shouldn't install this program and get more from your camera.

One more time: DPP IS FREE!!! IT COMES BUNDLED WITH YOUR CANON DSLR!!!

 

i dont know about you but i didnt pay for CS3 or Lightroom. plus my PP skills are that of a newb, but why not get used to using the best so your more familiar with CS3 than going from DPP to CS3 and being confused. plus im sure you can find CS3/2, Lightroom, and Aperture for free if you looked around.

 

To those who don't feel DPP is a worthy tool, I suggest you read some reviews on dpreview.com. That site does extensive testing with all of the raw processing software available, and DPP and Adobe Camera Raw seem to yield the best results IMO. This is a "all conditions equal" test, determining how each handles the conversion to JPG or TIFF.

Check it out on the 30D for example to decide for yourself.

 

Also, I think NEWBIES can cut their teeth on a free provided software and then move on to better/more expensive stuff if their needs and skills require it. The image concepts will travel fine to the more expensive software, so they won't loose their time.

And now, newbie questions :

- So, if I shot in RAW, I will have to post process every shot I take, correct? That could get old in a hurry... I don't think every shot I take is a work of art. But, I could them make the best of each shot I guess.

IDEA : Why not provide a super great RAW image for download, and let everybody go at it with their favorite software and post the results? That way we can compare what we like vs don't like, etc. Of course, with your result you have to tell us what you did to the image and what software was used.

 

That's a good idea.

I have a question, it's kind of OT but here goes. Look at this pic:



I used the exif viewer, info comes up as:

Obviously it was PS'd or altered in some way. The exposure time was 4 seconds. How did they keep the car in focus? Was the car still and the colors were PS'd in later? Was the camera put on a mount? Experts chime in? Pic looks badass.

 

You can make preset settings that you can use, so one click and the image is processed individually or thru a batch. I prefer PP each image since my type of shooting involves lighting that is dynamic. For those that do studio work or shooting in locations where the lighting is not dynamic, batch processing is very quick and simple.

Most advanced users will post process normal jpg images, so PP RAW images is no different. I actually save time when PP RAW since the RAW editors have all of the adjustments in one or two tabs. With Photoshop, making the adjustments that I use require 4-6 different menus.

 

i dunno my guess is another car going the same speed, because if it were on a mount it would be sticking so far out. but im not sure how car companies do it, just my guess

 

DPP is a great tool and is easy to use. I still sometimes revert to that before CS2 because its quick and easy to view the pictures as well in gallery form. Very nice write up by the way !!! And for those that don't pay for software that is why its so expensive

 

Hmmm...damn trade secrets! Anyone else have an idea?

 

Also note XTi: in full manual mode, you can choose to create a Raw AND Jpeg at the same time. Be warned though, those raw files get huge.

 

but yea, what ever is going the same speed as the camera should be in focus. i missed your colors part but the background will obviously blur since it is moving in contrast to the camera, but it looks to weird to be light, but maybe they fixed it up some more. id like to hear from Bubble, with all that gear hes got he better be good

 

that entire image looks photoshopped, nothing looks real, even the car looks pretty fake. Its physically impossible to have a 4 second shutter while driving in a car and snapping a picture of another car, you'd have to be going 80+mph, the vibration from the road alone would cause camera shake. Anything under 60/1000 shutter you can get alot of blur.
-GP-

 

hey C22, do you have photomatix? I'm trying to find a free download and cant locate one, any help would be appreciated.
-GP-

 

actually, if the shutter speed was 4sec, you don't need to be moving 80mph to get that effect. The car could be pushed maybe 1/2 rotation and you'd get that effect.

There could be some rig there that's been choped out, either a mount on the car or possibly some kart to move the camera along with the car.

 

I've always just jumped straight to CS3. The only advantages I see to using DPP is the presets such as white balancing.

I still have yet to try Lightroom although Ive heard some great things about it.

I'll have to pick it up and check it out.


Nice writeup! Thanks for taking the time to help the other photographers on my350z out!

 

The rig is attached to the car and then later the poles and reflections are removed in photoshop. The car is moving at speed then the engine is shut off and the car is in neutral at speed to eliminate engine vibrations. The car isn't going much faster than 5-10 mph.

 

thats one long *** pole, with a focal length of 80mm, seems like around 15 feet with the size of the car.

 

awesome right up, ill be testing up on my d40