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Standard practice? Thats ridiculous. We spend that much money on a kit thats enginnered to fit our cars and end up having to do all this work to it. Thats something id expect off of something cheap, but this kit retails for what like 8k? Starting to despise greddy right about now
So on the original manifold it looks like the first owmer changed the bolt patter up a bit. That shouldnt cause any problems should it? Ignore my cut up hands, seems impossible for me to work on my car without drawing blood
Nevermind i checked and that makes the other bolt holes not line up. But his whole bolt patter was different. Any reason not to use the pattern he used so i dont have to grind?
Last edited by louisville13; 12-10-2017 at 07:47 PM.
Alright guys, you have all been so hopefull with this build. Im hoping someone can help me with this. There is one bolt connecting the downpipe to the turbo that will not sit even no matter what i do. Ive tried all kinds of orientations. Should i go buy sand paper and spend hours trying to sand the downpipe flat?
I'm going to give u some advice here on your hardware situation. Never and I mean never use lock washers on hot parts like exhaust. They will expand and contract and eventually push out leaving the bolt loose. You will be 100% fine just using the Allen bolts with no washers. I went out and bought some quality stainless Allen bolts for my setup.
Here's what I ended up doing with my manifold studs and nuts. I purchased all new factory studs and nuts and used the short studs in the Greddy kit where needed. I also ground down the flanges on the factory nuts so they would fit into the tight spots and used flat washers instead of the large flanges on the nuts. Only use flat washers with the factory locking nuts never use lock style washers on hot parts. I ended up getting all but 2 studs and nuts in on the manifolds.
Although that is definitely good advice (I use flanged bolts on headers for example) I don't think it is entirely true. One cannot rely solely on the sprung lock washer, and it can be argued that they are pointless comparing to a flat washer. This article here supports that.
What's most important is that you get a good amount of stretch in the bolts; without exceeding their yield strength, so that when everything expands it still does not exceed their yield strength also accounting for outside forces like component weight. That ensures there will always be tension and therefore friction on the bolt/nut mating faces and thread contact faces regardless of temperature expansion/heat cycles.
I've heard of guys using lock washers on their headers for example. They do nothing really... They bottom out much before the proper tension is reached.
Cheesy lock washers will fall apart before proper tension is reached, so get a feel for bolt stretch and you're good
Although that is definitely good advice (I use flanged bolts on headers for example) I don't think it is entirely true. One cannot rely solely on the sprung lock washer, and it can be argued that they are pointless comparing to a flat washer. This article here supports that.
What's most important is that you get a good amount of stretch in the bolts; without exceeding their yield strength, so that when everything expands it still does not exceed their yield strength also accounting for outside forces like component weight. That ensures there will always be tension and therefore friction on the bolt/nut mating faces and thread contact faces regardless of temperature expansion/heat cycles.
I've heard of guys using lock washers on their headers for example. They do nothing really... They bottom out much before the proper tension is reached.
Cheesy lock washers will fall apart before proper tension is reached, so get a feel for bolt stretch and you're good
That was pretty much the point I was getting at don't use lock washers haha. Im a technician by trade and will only use self locking nuts and flat washers or flanged bolts/nuts and use nylocks without hot parts. The factory Z manifold nuts are flanged and self locking so there is no need for washers. But in this situation with the flange grinded off to fit into the tight slot I used flat washers with them to distribute the load.
So are yall saying i should take the lock washers and nuts off and use the factory locking nuts intead?
Pretty much ya... Take every single spring type lock washer u have and throw them in the trash can haha. You don't necessarily have to use the factory hardware but I would highly recommend getting self locking nuts and not the nylock style haha. I used self locking nuts and flat washers on every single stud on my car. I used them on the turbo manifolds and the turbo flange studs. Quality hardware goes a long way. Trust me you only want to do this once.
Pretty much ya... Take every single spring type lock washer u have and throw them in the trash can haha. You don't necessarily have to use the factory hardware but I would highly recommend getting self locking nuts and not the nylock style haha. I used self locking nuts and flat washers on every single stud on my car. I used them on the turbo manifolds and the turbo flange studs. Quality hardware goes a long way. Trust me you only want to do this once.
Hmm ok because the nuts i have are so big im convinced theyre never gonna fit on the one stud and i dont want to grind my manifold down that far. Maybe ill try and find allen socket bolts or somthing
Decided to swap the studs out with some hex socket bolts. Fits muchhhh better. Probably should swap the bolts on the other manifold as well, but i got lazy. Thats a job for another day
Last edited by louisville13; 12-15-2017 at 11:32 AM.
Well i figured it was better than nothing. I have bolts with no lock washers on my f150 and i have to tighten them weekly. Figured worst case scenario the lock washers dont keep the bolts from backing out, but without the lock washers theyd back out anyways
Yes, the oem nuts have that serrated flange remember? But i didnt use those because i figured the flange would be too big and be a pain to fit on there. I may pick up some loctite, but gotta make sure im sticking with the hardware i have first since ive changed it like 3 times ha. Plus im pretty sure when i talked to dynosty they told me to just go pick up some lock washers and nuts if i didnt want to buy the oem nuts
Now that all the christmas stuff is over, I have some time to get back to my car. I was planning on pulling my motor today, but when I looked at my built engine I noticed this oil leak. It really looks like it is coming from the valve covers (which are new and were installed by the shop), but I had some oil out that I was using hen I was cutting studs. I don't see how I could have gotten that much oil that far away from the manifold studs, but i don't know. Whats everyone think? Could it be coming from my valve covers even though the engine has just been sitting there, or am I being paranoid? The engine has never run, but I do turn it over every few weeks.
Idk how visible it is in the pic, but there is a little trail of oil making it look like it came from the valve covers.
I cleaned it up a bit to see if it leaks more, but it still really looks like its coming from the covers
Last edited by louisville13; 12-26-2017 at 11:01 AM.
It looks like it dripped from the front of the valve cover along the bottom to the back, I wouldn't tear it apart, those guys know what they're doing. Also no need to turn it over. It's probably worse for it to do that. There isn't any oil pressure to cushion the cam/crank journal bearings or coat the underside of the pistons/rings. 90% of engine wear occurs at startup. Hence the invention of accusumps.
12-10-2017, 07:24 PM
