I have been working on my 72 510 with an SR20DET in it for about 2.5 years now. It is still in Florida (moved out here 7 months ago)and my friends shop that was suppose to finish it for me flaked out.

Ive built the car myself and with my job here have no time to work on it. So rather it sit in a storage until til I decide to part it out, Id like for someone to finish it.

I put great attention to detail in this car. i have gone as far as sanding the bottom of the car and reunder coating it, sand and painted every suspension piece, EVERYTHING is adjustable, all ball joints are new or have been heimed, all chrome re chromed, all stainless re polished. cleaned and painted the whole block before i built the head. I want someone to put the care into this as I already have.

The car is already slated to be in modified mag, and I am going to shoot it and write the article for it, so if a good shop is looking for some props in exchange for some help in return, that can easily be arranged.

Being that I built the car I know almost exactly what it needs and have a detailed list.

The main thing is the wiring. I did a megasquirt harness for it, but decided against it. I am just going to do a stock harness with a rom tune. So I need the harness wired up (pretty easy) and then the chassis harness all situated which will require a little more work. Ill post up the list shortly.

some major mods
hks cams, rocker stoppers, t3/t04b, cometic HG, ARP headstuds, 550ccs, greddy intake, 12 gallon cell, aeroquip lines, inline walbro 255lph, pre and after filter, all eaton push locks for airlines, all ported off the bottom of the intake manifold, no rubber vacuum lines, hand made piping, IC, radiator

T3 rear coilover conversion, custom adjustable front heimed LCAs, 280z struts/brakes, coilovers front, camber plates, hard mounted rear Xmember, slotted rear X member, R190 diff, welded

280zx front and rear discs and calipers, porterfield R4S pads, rotora slotted and drilled rotors


outdated pics, the radiator is already done
as i bought it- no front sus, motor, interior, etc.


almost what it looks like

 

INTERIOR:

Probably am going to by door skins pre made, so it will need new carboard backings for the skins made.

rewrap rear seat
rear deck lid
headliner and A pillars
carpet from firewall to back of tail lights
i have a fuel cell and want it flat panneled and carpeted around the fuel cell (like a speaker box looks like)


MECHANICS - There might be a few minor things, but this is the majority, if you read them, its a bunch of easy things for the most part.

Some of this stuff may have been done, but all needs to be checked
- finish seat mounting thats been started
- mount and setup CNC hydrolic e brake, in front of the shifter, pull style
-Dash air vents on the mint dash pieces sanded and painted duplicolor chrome (or some variant)
-Dash harness to make everything work, from turn signals to windshield wipers.
-Engine harness working
-turbo feed and return lines, flange and seal for return are there, you use the judgement on going AN or rubber return.
-Catch can mounted, lines finished
- 7/8ths 280zx brake master cylinder, dual tube style (late model) brand new. They come as for power brakes, in a zip lock bag is what is needed to convert it (plunger, clip, boot, etc) to a manual brake, i know the master is in there, dunno if the plunger is in yet
-any finished welding on the floor pans
-lower harness
-battery relocation kit ran
-right rear trailing arm shock mount threads are ****ed up. Threads need to be retapped.
- you will see that the trailing arm mounting points are slotted, the vertical ones are for camber adjustment, pry bar them all the way down and impact them on. Horizontal are the toe adjustment, try to eyeball the center and then tighten. Check to make sure the tires don’t rub the inner fenders, I believe they rub A LITTLE, shave the inners if need be. Reapply 3M undercoating spray where ground.
- vent tube for gas tank.
- when powering the fuel pump, check everything for leaks
-when running the motor check everything for leaks, new front and rear main seals
- fluids, water wetter for radiator, motul brake fluid (mastro Subaru), diff fluid, qt of shock proof for trans and whatever goes accordingly, ensure the KN filter for the engine I got is correct, 20w50 of whatever non synthetic but good fluid
-the 2 vacuum lines going in the drivers side is for the AVCR boost solenoid, should have push locks for them, if not, the local hydrolic place there has the eaton fittings.
- the vacuum line coming from the intake manifold is for the AVCR boost solenoid. Figure a correct way to T the push lock lines into those normal rubber lines, there is a extra push lock T in the car.
-The water temp defi mounted in the small hole in the middle of the guage cluster area, the temp sensor is in my coolant bypass neck.
- Need new rear brake T block and new lines for the rear in stainless.
-Front brake lines, there is the little joint on the old lines in the box that C clips to the body, re make new stainless front lines
wire the car for a dimmer, power, ground, tach and speedo wires for when I put the autometer digital gauges.
- Wire AVCR for speed and rpm
- nice coolant overflow tank
-im unsure what bulbs in the car are good or not
-install new dash cover and refinished dash parts
- throttle cable to gas pedal- S13 gas pedal needs mounted
-carbon or sheet metal diffuser plate to go from the radiator to core support (cover up gap between radiator and IC)
- mount defi tach in hole where stock tach goes, other side make a CF holder for AEM wideband (smaller then the actual hole size)

 

so.... how much?

 

do it jon!

 

i dunno, PM me? This is prob 3-4 days of work if I had to guess.

 

no shops around?

 

http://mckinneymotorsports.com/ there in Murrieta when it comes to 510 there the masters they got a drag 510 with a built 500hp sr20 and they were the first to install rb26 in a 240sx they know there ****