i recently got my utec and i was doing some pulls and i noticed my car was showing some knock events on map 0 is this possible? i also read that you can adjust knock sensitivity so can it be that the sensitivy is tooo sensitive? another problem i encounterd was that cel light came on i do have test pipes but i have the spark plug nonfoulers and my cel hadnt come on could this be a result of the car running richer now than before?

 

What RPM are you knocking and what are your knock sensitivity? Need more info.... I had the same problem and the fix was to have my open loop cross over to kick in earlier...

 

sorry for taking so long to reply ive been real busy lately, my mods are jwt intake, test pipes, 5/16 motordyne spacer and lightweight flywheel. I was trying to look for the log so you can take a look at where it knocks but apparently i didn't save it , i will to do another run on map 0 tomorrow and i will post the log so you can take a look at it. The parameters i am using is the one on the turboxs site for 350z with intake and exhaust(MAF), i also have the map for intake and exhaust(MAF) loaded on MAP 1 but i don't want to use it until i figure out why its showing knock on map 0

 

If you have a utec and mods, who cares what it does on map 0? Map 0 is just your stock ecu running things, the utec is not affecting your tune whatsoever. You need to get the car tuned

On a car that has no mechanical issues and that is tuned correctly, there is 0 need to touch knock sensitivity - just leave it at the default setting

CEL - only way to know is to scan the code and solve the issue related to that code.

 

i know that map 0 is my stock ecu but if im getting knock on the stock ecu wouldn't that mean i would be getting false knocks on map 1, when i tune it?

 

no, it means your car is seeing some sort of knock, and it needs to be tuned

 

does that mean that everyone who has mods on their car may be having some sort of knock and not even realize it?

 

also the knock parameters on the utec site for 350z with intake and exhaust are set to be alittle less sensitive than the default settings. should i use those settings or default?

 

exactly - that is why tuning is so important.

your best bet is bringing the car to a professional to have it tuned

 

which parameters should i use?

 

I would not touch anything, let whomever tunes it do it. If they know what they are doing, they will tune the car so that there is no knock present, and no timing being pulled by the ecu, at any point in the rev range, regardless of gear.

 

If the stock ecu detects knock, it'll also pull timing. But it isn't very good at detecting knock, and if I recall correctly, it doesn't even try to detect knock above 4000 rpms.

You can use Cipher or Consult II to retard or advance timing up to 2 degrees if you feel the need to mess with the ecu.

Could also be that you just got some bad gas, and the knock will go away with better gas.

 

Erin - not all knock translates into timing being pulled - I forget how many counts it takes for the stock ecu to pull it off hand

 

Yeah, when I look through my old logs, I see that the ecu is slow to react to knock and it doesn't pull much timing at all compared to how I have my UTEC setup. I'm not sure how many counts the ecu needs to start pulling timing either...

 

the reason why i don't take it to get tuned it because their isn't a very reputable 350z shop around my area that i know of and another reason is because i want to try and learn how to do it myself. i know that its not an overnight things but if i don't give it a try i will never learn.

 

That's garbage. On map 0 the Utec *can* see false knock and report it, depending on knock sensitivity settings.

OP, play with the knock sensitivity settings and see for yourself.

You can tune your car yourself. It's pretty easy if you like to tweak and tune. I've done it with both Utec and Osiris. I know gothchick has done a lot with Utec.

I'd be glad to share logs/files with you. It's not rocket science. Tune an NA car to 13:1 and bump timing a couple degrees and you'll be pretty close to where you want to be.

And athenG is right -- look at whether you're knocking during shifts, or under load.

 

On map 0, the utec is not doing anything to the car - you can change the knock settings all you want, it won't do a single thing with the car on map 0. Don't want to believe me, that is fine - call Turbo XS yourself and ask them. You can call if false knock all you want - I don't buy it, sorry. Your opinion can vary, that is fine....just telling you what I've experienced on my own car (I've had a utec since before they were for sale, on both a stock and fully built motor). I've had more time tuning my utec than I can count at this point

To the OP - if you have the remote switch, make sure your rotoray dial setting on the utec matches up with the remote switch position too

As for shops in Florida, you've got Performance Factory, and a few others - check the regional forums. There may also be some individuals who do it on the side who have the know how to help you. Or, contact Turbo XS directly and they can steer you in the right direction. If self tuning, the single best tool is the manual it comes it...reading it repeatedly will give you most of the insight you need to get things close. I'd also invest in a wideband as well

 

ok im installing my afr guage on friday so i can start tuning so i gottta ask some questions. from what ive read my target afr for n/a is 12.5 to 13.2 right? what is better to do in the case of knock retard timings or add fuel? another thing i noticed that utec logs cel hits, anyone can tell me what does are ?

 

thats the general area where you want to be yes, but let the car tell you where it's happy - log, rinse, repeat.

what you'll find is there really isn't much by way of timing changes that nets a big difference on a nearly stock motor - most of your changes will be centered around fuel. Even on my car, I am not running a timing map that deviates significantly from stock. Avoid doing global changes to the map - just focus on specific areas, log them, alter as needed. Once your there, you can focus on the map parameters between shifts (gear-gear knock counts are somewhat frequent, but they can be tuned out). Bring the manual with you too - it really is very very helpful and the more times you read it, esp with the utec/laptop in hand, the more beneficial it will be for you

have fun!

 

is there any danger in running too rich?