The power curve is pretty symmetric about 5900 RPM or so. Therefore if you make more power @ 7000 than you do at your new RPM, then you should shift @ redline.

OK, shifting from 1st @ 7000 gives you 4300 RPM in 2nd. As you can see, you are making more power @ 7000 than @ 4300, so you'd want to shift from first to second gear @ 7000

Shifting from 2nd @ 7000 gives you 4900 RPM in 3rd. In this case you are making slightly more power in 3rd @ 4900 than in 2nd @ 7000, so you could short-shift a bit, maybe at 6900 or so.

From 3rd @ 7000 gives you 5500 in 4th, so in this case you'd definitely want to shift sooner, at about 6500-6600 RPM

From 4th @ 7000 gives you 5500 in 5th, so again, shift @ about 6500-6600 RPM

Fromt 5th @ 7000 gives you 5550 in 6th, so maybe this time shift @ 6400-6500 RPM.

-D'oh!

 

So If im reading this right and I am stock than my optimal shift point would be 6600 every time?

 

I checked that a year ago and my recollection is that in stock form we want to shift at redline for at least the first three shifts (and I think for all 5 shifts).

-D'oh!

 

What does it mean: scaling set to 5??

This seems to be a good competitor for the TS flash...

 

Repeat!!
What a great deal!!
I hope Technosquare folks are reading this post! time to drop the price to $295

 

COol! you said in your first line, you made a modifcation to the Z which actually made a Difference that you could feel.. please list the mods you currently have and if you did a base line stock to ecu with stock engine

 

How do you know they are not using the TS software (which itself is Techtom IO believe)? AFAIK, its the only reflash software out for the Z.

 

I'm nearly certain that's what they're using. I don't believe there is any way (currently) to flash the Z33 ECU without a Techtom programmer.

 

who gives a rats what programmer they are using? this is good because for a lot of people this is much closer than CA and for more than you may think (a few) they are local. one huge reason i have held off on the motor is because of ECU solutions not being complete and available locally/closely. my XERDs are on the way, cams will be soon, as soon as lsd's plenum is out it will be on the way also. then i flash about 1 mile from where i live and support will always be near. yay.

 

WOW This is great.. more performance shops in DFW jumping aboard the 350z tuning..

 

And I can drive to Dallas! Nothing against TS , but I believe my car needs to be attached to the ECU for someone to tune it. If they can get my A/F right, I'll dish out another $595 in a heartbeat!!

 

They are. All you need to do is ask Ethan and he is very forthcoming about it. The difference is that they tune the ECU to your particular car on a Dyno, whereas if you don't live in SoCal you get a cookie cutter ECU flash by FedEx from TS.
I'm about 5 hours away from Dallas and spoke to Ethan this morning. He seemed like a very honest and open person (from what I could tell over the phone).
I'm going down in 3 weeks for my flash

 

Could you post the number? I didn't see it on the site. Thanks.

 

danny confirmed they purchased the programmer kit last year.. so they're doing their own programs... cool deal..

what i dont get is.. on their website it states:

1. Ignition map is optimized for 92+ octane gasoline. Lower octane gasoline can, however, be used with slightly reduced performance as the ecu has a high detonation map that was left unchanged.
2. Fuel maps are left unchanged: air/fuel ratio with a stock motor with stock components are running in the mid 12s.


why are they leaving the fuel mapped unchanged?

 

so what does TS do if you go by his shop in LA??? i'am curious.. just drop a cookie cutter ECU flash on?? Or will he customize it for MY car ?? Do i get a dyno ???

 

It's not on the site..I had to email him for it:
214-794-7709

I'll PM you before I head down your way..get together for a beer and check out your ride.

 

That was on a stock Z that the fuel maps were left unchanged.
If you have any mods that have affected your A/F...they'll know about it on the Dyno and tune it appropriately

 

Sounds good man, thanks.

 

I spoke with Danny about this exact subject on Thursday. Yes, there are others who have licensed the software. Altered Atmosphere being another one of them.

But simply being able to make modifications to the bits is only half of the store. Do they know how to control the drive-by-wire? Do they know how to progressively retard timing in a forced induction scenario rather than increasing timing, etc. Simply raising the rev limiter and increasing timing are disastrous for FI scenarios.

Also, am I the only one who noticed that it took a whopping EIGHT dynos to get a number good enough to display on their web site?

--Steve

 

Saying that it took 8 dynos to finally get a good dyno is a horrible and short sighted assumption. All that you can conclude is that the dyno posted has the number 8 on it. They could have been tuning the ECU while dynoing or maybe they had faulty runs. We could speculate all night and the point is please don't say stupid things that you actually have no idea about why, when, how, etc. Thanks.